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GOAT Slider removal for SC to work on

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Has anyone ever removed their GOAT sliders before taking your truck to the SC, and if so did you use the bolts the sliders came with or did you have to install the TP55 bolts?

I've inquired with my SC before about having sliders installed and they require to have them removed due to their lift being blocked.
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SeattleSteve

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I have GOAT sliders on my R1T and at my service the service advisor just used a jack puck to see if it would work at check-in. It did and the service was completed with the sliders installed.
 

Time2Roll

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Have not tempted fate and yet I chose GOAT partially because many reports say no issues with service. I don't know the details but I would try to take it in and see if they refuse. Depends a bit on how critical the service is and how long to reschedule.
 

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There was a very small first batch of R1S sliders that partially blocked one of the lifting pads, but everything since that has left plenty of room, and I've verified with all the designs since that they will work with the pucks Rivian uses since they are huge.
 

2kwik4u

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I have GOAT sliders on my R1T and at my service the service advisor just used a jack puck to see if it would work at check-in. It did and the service was completed with the sliders installed.
They do the same check with my EVBase boards every time it comes in. They've never asked me to remove them. Had the tech outline the pucks on the truck with sharpie last time. Now they just peek under there and see the circles and I'm good :D

yes, it's in for service enough it was worth the time savings to outline the pucks. :(
 

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Update: The SC never brought up having an issue with the sliders. They were also overwhelmed with the number of appointments they had during(22 vs their regular 11), although I'm sure if it was an issue they would have called or messaged me.
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

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Goat trimmed (rear most?) bracket to create more clearance for pucks. I too mine to SC near Rivian HQ and they never said a word about the sliders. But to your question, original bolts or Goat’s depends on how much you feel like you need to keep your modification a secret. But since you already volunteered info… it doesn’t matter.
 

Epzey

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For anyone finding this through forum search I just installed my step sliders from GOAT and can confirm the SC jack pucks fit no problem.
 

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AndrewSEA

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There was a very small first batch of R1S sliders that partially blocked one of the lifting pads, but everything since that has left plenty of room, and I've verified with all the designs since that they will work with the pucks Rivian uses since they are huge.
How do you know if you have one of the first batch? I ordered my R1S GOAT sliders 4/25/2024. Currently at service center and they need to inspect/replace air suspension. Called me to get permission to remove only my sliders for $250. Perhaps they just automatically called without checking first if they will fit with the lift, or maybe I have an early version?
 

Dark-Fx

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How do you know if you have one of the first batch? I ordered my R1S GOAT sliders 4/25/2024. Currently at service center and they need to inspect/replace air suspension. Called me to get permission to remove only my sliders for $250. Perhaps they just automatically called without checking first if they will fit with the lift, or maybe I have an early version?
The rear-most mounting brackets interferes with where the puck goes. Later ones were trimmed back, and anything in the last while omits that bracket entirely. Just got overlooked when the changeover from the R1T to R1S happened since they differ in spacing back there.

Edit:

I don't think I have a photo of the modified ones, but this is the problem area from the original prototype version (It's rusty because it was only rattle can painted for photos, and we left it on for some usability testing afterwards) That bracket will be scalloped out if you weren't in the original batch.

I am still running these ones with the modified bracket on our '23 R1S and my SC has never said anything about it.

Rivian R1T R1S GOAT Slider removal for SC to work on 1780942819803-m7
 
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AndrewSEA

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The rear-most mounting brackets interferes with where the puck goes. Later ones were trimmed back, and anything in the last while omits that bracket entirely. Just got overlooked when the changeover from the R1T to R1S happened since they differ in spacing back there.

Edit:

I don't think I have a photo of the modified ones, but this is the problem area from the original prototype version (It's rusty because it was only rattle can painted for photos, and we left it on for some usability testing afterwards) That bracket will be scalloped out if you weren't in the original batch.

I am still running these ones with the modified bracket on our '23 R1S and my SC has never said anything about it.

1780942819803-m7.webp
Thanks, I don't think I have this version. I remember when I installed mine, the instructions/video didn't match up with the sliders I had, so I must have gotten the updated ones. However this Seattle Rivian service center technician is requiring the sliders to be removed to be used on the lift because their puck touches something and they don't sit completely flush (1/2" give). I'll have to re-install them myself in the parking lot at Rivian when I pick up.
 

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Question on maintenance, are you guys doing anything to keep yours from rusting? This is my first time with them and I didn’t take the time to look into this, so mine are pretty rusted in spots. This is after a couple of North East winters of driving on salty roads.
 

UnsungZero_OldTimeAdMan

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Question on maintenance, are you guys doing anything to keep yours from rusting? This is my first time with them and I didn’t take the time to look into this, so mine are pretty rusted in spots. This is after a couple of North East winters of driving on salty roads.
Not a problem I have in SoCal, but based on past experiences in wetter climates... There is not much you can do. Powder coated items, when done properly, shouldn't rust unless:
  • Things were not done properly during coating; i.e. oven temp set too high or there are impurities in the powder, causing bubbles of gas to form, resulting in the coating to be porous.
  • Or, the coating has been damaged (scrapping on rocks/dirt while off-roading) and exposing to moisture/oxidation. It's really just surface rust and would take a long time to become cancerous.
I think most people just clean the rust off as well as they can (metal brush, or media blast), treat with rust-stop, mask and spray paint to touch up. Some spray paints, like Rust-Oleum, claim to include ingredients that treat and stop rust.
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