Products & Accessories for Rivian R1T/R1S by TWRAPS

[DJG]

Auch! But it does look great though, powder coat beats vinyl any day. (I know I am not supposed to say that because I sell the vinyl but just being honest here)
How long does it take? In other words, how long did you have to go without your truck?

It sure beats the $3,500 it would cost to get the dark factory rims... $750 is a great bargain.

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[twraps]

It sure beats the $3,500 it would cost to get the dark factory rims... $750 is a great bargain.

True...well the vinyl wrap one (https://twraps.com/products/spokes-vinyl-covers-for-rivians-21-road-wheels-r1t-r1s) beats the $750 even further, but takes time to install and at the end if you look closely you will see the seams, so it's not as sleek as the powder coat for sure.

 

[DJG]

True...well the vinyl wrap one (https://twraps.com/products/spokes-vinyl-covers-for-rivians-21-road-wheels-r1t-r1s) beats the $750 even further, but takes time to install and at the end if you look closely you will see the seams, so it's not as sleek as the powder coat for sure.

Agreed, I have the ones from Brain Exploder to match the gun metal 20's. It's the best bang for buck, but assuming you won't detail and durability, powder coating is clear winner over the factory options price wise. In addition to the fact that for $3,500 it's just a dark tint over the normal 20" Bright wheels, so not sure how durable that would be, perhaps way less than a powdercoat.

 

[bd5400]

Auch! But it does look great though, powder coat beats vinyl any day. (I know I am not supposed to say that because I sell the vinyl but just being honest here)
How long does it take? In other words, how long did you have to go without your truck?

Less than a day. Dropped it off in the morning and picked it up mid-afternoon.

 

[nc10]

Further on the subject of possible risk of deformation - according to some website on the internet (sounds legit, right? ?), the glass transition temp for PLA is about 130F while for PETG it's about 180F...indeed a big difference, but then again anything under 130F should not soften the PLA.

Apologize if repeating something you've already read...

Heat distortion of PLA is a real risk below the Tg.

This may not help much, but mentioning, you can heat treat (anneal) PLA and improve the Heat Distortion Temp (HDT). I think HDT is a better indicator than Tg for this application. Unfortunately, the dimensions of an item changes slightly during heat treating, a very few %., and its different for the X, Y, and Z directions. Warping probably would also occur, though you could likely minimize that if you heat treated in a sand bath or similar, or maybe fill the part with sand when heat treating.

Heat Distortion Temp is the temp when a certain deflection occurs when a specific weight or force is put on a specific sized test bar. Staying below the HDT doesn't guarantee your part is ok, more weight could cause the same deflection at a lower temp, for example. But its a way to compare.

Good article here:
https://blog.prusa3d.com/how-to-improve-your-3d-prints-with-annealing_31088/

I've heat treated a few PLA parts that I wanted to be dishwasher safe. (PLA is close to ok as is at dishwasher temps, but wanted to be sure.) I didn't care to much if the dimensions of the parts changed slightly. I put the parts on a flat tray in a toaster oven. In one case (a 10" wide replacement drip tray for a George Foreman oven) filled it with coins to keep it in place and minimize the risk of warping. I did end up with a few coin shaped indents in my tray but it didn't warp and I've since used many times.

I've used this brand PLA when I wanted better heat resistance, they have a good color selection, but not cheap. There are other brands of HT PLA also. Heat treating should work with any PLA, but I think the HT PLA's do better.
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/feature_heat-treatable
https://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/high-temp-pla

I'm sure you are aware, but in case someone isn't, the chance of a PLA part warping/changing shape in a hot vehicle will be affected by how much weight/force is on the item even below the Tg. I'd worry PLA will deform in a hot car well below the Tg, if it has any weight/force on it.

 

[teddyang]

Got my fog light yellow tint film, installed today. Thanks for offering it as a product!

 

[twraps]

Apologize if repeating something you've already read...

Heat distortion of PLA is a real risk below the Tg.

This may not help much, but mentioning, you can heat treat (anneal) PLA and improve the Heat Distortion Temp (HDT). I think HDT is a better indicator than Tg for this application. Unfortunately, the dimensions of an item changes slightly during heat treating, a very few %., and its different for the X, Y, and Z directions. Warping probably would also occur, though you could likely minimize that if you heat treated in a sand bath or similar, or maybe fill the part with sand when heat treating.

Heat Distortion Temp is the temp when a certain deflection occurs when a specific weight or force is put on a specific sized test bar. Staying below the HDT doesn't guarantee your part is ok, more weight could cause the same deflection at a lower temp, for example. But its a way to compare.

Good article here:
https://blog.prusa3d.com/how-to-improve-your-3d-prints-with-annealing_31088/

I've heat treated a few PLA parts that I wanted to be dishwasher safe. (PLA is close to ok as is at dishwasher temps, but wanted to be sure.) I didn't care to much if the dimensions of the parts changed slightly. I put the parts on a flat tray in a toaster oven. In one case (a 10" wide replacement drip tray for a George Foreman oven) filled it with coins to keep it in place and minimize the risk of warping. I did end up with a few coin shaped indents in my tray but it didn't warp and I've since used many times.

I've used this brand PLA when I wanted better heat resistance, they have a good color selection, but not cheap. There are other brands of HT PLA also. Heat treating should work with any PLA, but I think the HT PLA's do better.
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/feature_heat-treatable
https://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/high-temp-pla

I'm sure you are aware, but in case someone isn't, the chance of a PLA part warping/changing shape in a hot vehicle will be affected by how much weight/force is on the item even below the Tg. I'd worry PLA will deform in a hot car well below the Tg, if it has any weight/force on it.

Thank you, this is very helpful!
As I said, I will try switching to PETG in the meantime, although as I said, in my tests it held up OK in a very hot car...perhaps not Texas/Arizona hot, but still - California hot If anyone has issues with warping I will of course replace, hopefully in a day or two I will be up and running with PETG version.

 

[twraps]

Got my fog light yellow tint film, installed today. Thanks for offering it as a product!

That's awesome, thanks for posting these! Is it OK if I put it on my site as part of the listing?

 

[teddyang]

That's awesome, thanks for posting these! Is it OK if I put it on my site as part of the listing?

sure, as long as you're ok with my messy garage being in the background! lol

 

[twraps]

sure, as long as you're ok with my messy garage being in the background! lol

I've seen worse ? Thank you ?

 

[kanundrum]

I live in California, and our roads suck. My Model S' windshield just got cracked again last week (rock on the freeway), I think that's the 3rd time I have to replace a windshield for the past 2 years (and don't get me started on flat tiers because of screws, nails, potholes etc)... so last week when it happened I installed 8mil clear PPF on it to see how it goes, but I removed it the next day because everything became a bit foggy...not enough to be dangerous but enough to make me regret it every time I look through the crystal clear side windows.
So my point is - PPF on the windshield won't work as far as I can tell based on my experiment. If you have another idea what could be put on it, I am all in, I just have no idea... sometime ago I installed armored foil on my house windows, just in case, and I made an experiment and installed one of the foils on the outside (even though it's an inside installation only) and now a few years later it looks terrible, so that won't do it either.

Seems like there are specific ones that CAP tested out



Ill definitely be looking into this.

 

[twraps]

Seems like there are specific ones that CAP tested out



Ill definitely be looking into this.

Interesting! Will see if I can get some of this film to test on my car first.

 

[twraps]

Apologize if repeating something you've already read...

Heat distortion of PLA is a real risk below the Tg.

This may not help much, but mentioning, you can heat treat (anneal) PLA and improve the Heat Distortion Temp (HDT). I think HDT is a better indicator than Tg for this application. Unfortunately, the dimensions of an item changes slightly during heat treating, a very few %., and its different for the X, Y, and Z directions. Warping probably would also occur, though you could likely minimize that if you heat treated in a sand bath or similar, or maybe fill the part with sand when heat treating.

Heat Distortion Temp is the temp when a certain deflection occurs when a specific weight or force is put on a specific sized test bar. Staying below the HDT doesn't guarantee your part is ok, more weight could cause the same deflection at a lower temp, for example. But its a way to compare.

Good article here:
https://blog.prusa3d.com/how-to-improve-your-3d-prints-with-annealing_31088/

I've heat treated a few PLA parts that I wanted to be dishwasher safe. (PLA is close to ok as is at dishwasher temps, but wanted to be sure.) I didn't care to much if the dimensions of the parts changed slightly. I put the parts on a flat tray in a toaster oven. In one case (a 10" wide replacement drip tray for a George Foreman oven) filled it with coins to keep it in place and minimize the risk of warping. I did end up with a few coin shaped indents in my tray but it didn't warp and I've since used many times.

I've used this brand PLA when I wanted better heat resistance, they have a good color selection, but not cheap. There are other brands of HT PLA also. Heat treating should work with any PLA, but I think the HT PLA's do better.
https://www.proto-pasta.com/collections/all/feature_heat-treatable
https://www.proto-pasta.com/pages/high-temp-pla

I'm sure you are aware, but in case someone isn't, the chance of a PLA part warping/changing shape in a hot vehicle will be affected by how much weight/force is on the item even below the Tg. I'd worry PLA will deform in a hot car well below the Tg, if it has any weight/force on it.

PETG came today...first 4 attempts didn't work but I am on #5 now and so far so good Let's see...

 

[teddyang]

took some more picture at night....

 

[mabowden]

Anyone have a photo yet of the 21" overlays without the aero inserts?

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