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HyperionMark

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What is your typical efficiency in mi/kWh? It is easy to figure out range if you know that.
Not trying to sound like a jerk, but "typical efficiency" just isn't a thing. It varies so wildly based on speed, temps, road conditions, and definitely wind.
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Why does it matter whether the extra 50 miles comes from an extra 20 kWh or an extra 200 kWh?
Weight. Weight has negative impact to drive/ handling characteristics, payload, towing capacity, etc. We want energy density to increase, so a given battery pack size has more kWh available at the same/ lower mass for longer range, lower cost, etc.
 

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Which IMO is very, very unlikely. I think it is more likely the usable capacity is 149 kWh, and they are assuming an efficiency of 2.75 mi/kWh.

Does anyone get 2.75 mi/kWh in real life? Most posts for highway efficiency I have seen have it 2.2 or lower. 2.2 provides a highway range of 328 miles, assuming 149 kWh usable capacity.
Don’t forget dual motors models are running with single motor the majority of the time in “All purpose” mode. Driving like a saint on the highway, with the suspension in lowest and “conserve” on my quad I can hit 2.7 mi/kwh.

I suspect this “single motor mode” has a significant efficiency gain. There is a reason the max pack is not being offered with the quad - and clearly it is not packaging as the battery pack sizes are the same?
 

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I'd like to see Munro dissect the battery to see what it actually is.

Least they could do, is give the maxpack holders more drive modes considering the cost vs minimal range improvement.
 

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Not trying to sound like a jerk, but "typical efficiency" just isn't a thing. It varies so wildly based on speed, temps, road conditions, and definitely wind.
Of course, but if you have been driving for a while and paying attention to your efficiency, you can see clear trends. You can see your efficiency for each trip you take. You can see what you get around town and on the highway.

In my MME, I set cruise on 80 mph and at that speed I average around 2.4 mi/kWh. It is consistent. If it is cold and I am using the heat, it is significantly worse. If it is raining, it is worse. But in a typical trip with the cruise at 80, I get 2.4. Consistently.

I pay less attention around town, because I don't really care about around town efficiency. But typically it is around 3-3.5 mi/kWh. (I do a few WOTs almost every time I drive my car.) Of course I have seen much higher, and when running the heat, much lower.

As you said, it depends. But there is consistency if you are watching.
 

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LMFAO...14 kWh gross for $10k. So glad I dropped max pack and got a large pack instead. When it was supposed to be 180 kWh it was potentially worth it, but not with these specs. That's going to get people a whopping 15-ish miles additional while towing...and that's assuming a 100% charge. The only reason this works at all is because it's attached to the dual-motor, which is more efficient because it uses auto-conserve mode for its all-purpose...which doesn't do anything while towing because both motors are engaged all the time. Maybe when the R1 platform makes its big transition to 800V years into the future we'll see a proper max pack. This really does suggest it's merely a chemistry change and there are no more cells than the current large pack...which likely means the same or worse charging performance as the current large pack.
 

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There is something wrong with that 149kwh number.
If 135kwh = 352 miles for DM & DMmax gets 410miles then:
410/352= 1.165
135kwh x 1.165= 157kwh not (149kwh usable?)

This extra 20-22kwh is added to the 20-80% which is loosely considered the usable range. So adding 20kwh to the middle 60% (80kwh) is adding 25% to the "usable" range which also coincides with what another poster
mentioned so less charging stops.
Am I missing something?
 
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mkhuffman

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Don’t forget dual motors models are running with single motor the majority of the time in “All purpose” mode. Driving like a saint on the highway, with the suspension in lowest and “conserve” on my quad I can hit 2.7 mi/kwh.

I suspect this “single motor mode” has a significant efficiency gain. There is a reason the max pack is not being offered with the quad - and clearly it is not packaging as the battery pack sizes are the same?
I doubt you would get 2.7 mi/kWh at 80 mph. So you must be at or below the speed limit. I guess that is what you mean about about driving like a saint!
 

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I doubt you would get 2.7 mi/kWh at 80 mph. So you must be at or below the speed limit. I guess that is what you mean about about driving like a saint!
70mph is the average interstate speed limit in the USA, some are higher some are lower but the average is 70. He must be doing the speed limit, makes a pretty big difference on range & possibly liability in an accident.
 

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70mph is the average interstate speed limit in the USA, some are higher some are lower but the average is 70. He must be doing the speed limit, makes a pretty big difference on range & possibly liability in an accident.
Yep, I agree. Air resistance exponentially increases with speed. The difference between 70 and 80 is significant. But 2.7 still seems high at 70 mph.

I am passed by just about everyone if I drive 70 mph when the speed limit is 65 or 70. If the average is 70, it must be including some pretty slow roads, such as 45 mph and 55 mph stretches. I have been on plenty of 45 mph highways with people going 60-70.
 

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Why does it matter whether the extra 50 miles comes from an extra 20 kWh or an extra 200 kWh?

It's better to do more with a smaller battery than to eat into the payload or passenger space with a physically larger and heavier battery pack?

I'm beginning to see Rivian's point when they were trying to deemphasize the kWh specs for the Max Pack. What's most important is the range improvement.
Costs aside, you cant get around physics which means Rivian isn't being 100% honest here. A larger battery isn't significantly more efficient. But they seem to be claiming that a marginal increase in battery is netting them better gains than the large battery. Either that, or the capacity still isn't correct. Add to that, a different cell chemistry may have hitherto unknown downsides like increased degredation, poor cold weather performance, weird charging curves, etc. Basically, we just dont know what we dont know. Yet to say it doesn't matter is just inviting people to step into decisions without all the information. Bad idea.
 

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I doubt you would get 2.7 mi/kWh at 80 mph. So you must be at or below the speed limit. I guess that is what you mean about about driving like a saint!
Here in Cali most Freeways are posted at 65, and yeah you’d need to be cruising at that speed. Which can be annoying as flow of traffic is 75+. Still it can be done when you promised to be home by X o’clock, and a charging stop would scupper it :).
 

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Not trying to sound like a jerk, but "typical efficiency" just isn't a thing. It varies so wildly based on speed, temps, road conditions, and definitely wind.
Not really, there's enough data out there on enough EV's, and specific EV's, to say that based on temp/wind/speed, efficiency can be pretty predictable. And then from there, adjusting with multipliers so that comparisons can be maintained. We also have a wide range of highs/lows here on the forum. So if I read someone is getting long term mile/kwh in X region with Y config and another owner is getting a different number in Z region with Y config, then we know the regional change (temperature most likely) is the cause for the discrepancy. And keep in mind, controlling pack temp is something the car is designed to do. So 5,10/15' temp differences aren't going to give large swings to the number either.

Yes, yes, wind/rain/sleet/snow are all going to throw things off. But we can get a pretty damn good idea regardless. And even better if you know the general wind patterns because that can be immediately corrected by adding/subtracting to avg speed. It's all data my friend.
 

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So 15 kWh bigger than the large pack. Seems not really worth it to me, not for 6K.
I agree with you Donald. Not only for the money but also for the years of waiting since 2020 in my case. I have refuse the LE in order to get a Max pack of 180 KWhr. Consequently, I have remove the max pack and I will use it while waiting for a significant Sylverado RST with 229 KWH for towing. 149 KWhr is not enough for towing a travel trailer in my view. I am… disapointed...
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