What about removing the front motors for the RWD version? You think removing a seat, yet adding back material will reduce the price to under 70K? Are there any electronics or other systems tied to the seats or in that area to deal with. If it looks Jerry rigged it won’t sell.
I didn’t like the Toyos for my daily commute. Worked well the little off roading I did and they are quieter compared to some cheap mud tires I had before. I just put on the Michelle defender and love them for almost no noise and plenty of traction. I felt the Toyos are too heavy and stiff.
Trump also carries on about ending the new green deal, which is financing big business in his southern states. Do you think those states will let the funding go that is providing jobs and growth?
It is better to maintain a battery by leaving it plugged in. Plus when you use the cabin pre conditioning it will pull from the charger and not the battery. Maintaining the battery really only matters when not used for long periods of time. After 2 years and 40,000 miles, always left...
All the training I’ve had about batteries is that it’s better to maintain at a SOC, regardless of level. A few hours at 100% won’t hurt anything. It’s the number of times and how fast you get there. Level III chargers are hard on the battery because they are forcing so much power at one...
You can set start and stop time and SOC. Why does it need to stop charging one hour before you leave? Tell it to charge, tell it what time you want it warmed up or cooled to leave and you are good to go. Or are you trying to avoid being charged for idle time at the charger?
Yep, I have had two times when the mobile tech could have come by to diagnose the issue, told the service center and had parts ordered before dropping at the service center. The have always stepped up and fixed stuff, but the system seems inefficient and a waste of money on their side. They...
Drive in conserve mode almost all the time. When I toaster at 5000 miles and check tread depth of the 21” OEM tires I might have 1/64” difference between the front and back. 25,000 miles on the tires and now replacing them. I don’t think this is bad for a high performance tire with no warranty.
Update on my 21”- sitting at 26,000 miles with about 2000 left. Check out 1EV- currently having a sale on 20” wheels that match the OEM wheels. 20” opens a whole better tire world.
I use conserve a lot, rotate every 5000 miles and drive softly most of the time. Sitting at about 20,000 miles on my 21” OEM. I might have 2000 miles left on them. This particular tire has no warranty no matter where, when or how you buy it.
I really dislike adaptive cruise control in any amount of traffic for this reason and many others. In found that setting it to the greatest following distance and then changing to the closest following distance right before starting to pass helps with this problem, but that leaves too much...
Because it’s destructive and the founder said no. Besides very few actually need it so why waste the time and money on it when they have other simpler issues to fix?