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LL75

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Since some of us are going to 2nd year of ownership. Do we see any degradation yet? My tesla model 3 is not very lucky with that after 3 years and have about 15% degraded.
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DaveA

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Since some of us are going to 2nd year of ownership. Do we see any degradation yet? My tesla model 3 is not very lucky with that after 3 years and have about 15% degraded.
Wow...considering Tesla had a tweet the other day saying only 12% degradation after 200k miles...that seems high.
 
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LL75

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Wow...considering Tesla had a tweet the other day saying only 12% degradation after 200k miles...that seems high.
yeap. have 85k miles in 3 and a half years and currently at 15% degradation
 

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yeap. have 85k miles in 3 and a half years and currently at 15% degradation
Do you do frequent DCFC or charge >80%?
 

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Sorry to be dense, but how would one know if they have degradation?

My estimated range is always different, depending on recent driving patterns, latest OTA updates, etc.

So, where do I look to see if I have any degradation?
 

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Beware of how you calculate degradation. BMS can be off by a few percent. Additionally, my total range shows way less in winter than it does in summer as it naturally accounts for weather impacts. If you’re not checking this with Tesla diagnostics, your numbers could easily swing 5-7% which would put your degradation in the 6-7% normal range.
 
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LL75

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Do you do frequent DCFC or charge >80%?
We do mostly home charging at 90% like they recommended. We did 100% about about 30 times during the 3 and a half years.
 
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LL75

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Beware of how you calculate degradation. BMS can be off by a few percent. Additionally, my total range shows way less in winter than it does in summer as it naturally accounts for weather impacts. If you’re not checking this with Tesla diagnostics, your numbers could easily swing 5-7% which would put your degradation in the 6-7% normal range.
sadly, Tesla did the diagnostics and 15% is what they had and they said it is normal. Only eligible for battery warranty if it is at 30% degraded.
 

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Before Rivian changed the software, all R1Ts were showing less range than spec.
For '23, Rivian upped the range and the mpge.
Rivian has since upped the available kWh percentage of the pack.
The physical pack is 141kWh, rated at 135kWh.

Nobody knows the vehicle pack degradation from the instruments.

You'd have to run a capacity test (charge 100%, drive to 0%, charge to 100%, see the actual kWh absorbed during that session, not the kWh "dispensed.")

I think "Out of Spec" did an actual kWh capacity test.
That would be the only way to know degradation.
The software is telling a story of interpolated values.

My R1T "says" its range is 290 (12% below 328) but who knows, that's its projection.
290 miles at 1.8 mi/kWh = 161 kWh
So that's a bogus number, too. : )

If I look at the average 1.8 mi/kWh, the EPA for '22 and '23 is different, so using the '22 range of
https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2022_Rivian_R1T.shtml
48 kWh/100 mile = 2.08 mi/kWh
2.08 / 1.8 * 290 = 335 miles … so the 290 is also just a number.
The original rated range was 314 on 21's. My '22 R1T is on 20's with snow tires.
 
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CommodoreAmiga

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Before Rivian changed the software, all R1Ts were showing less range than spec.
For '23, Rivian upped the range and lowered the mpge.
Rivian has since upped the available kWh percentage of the pack.
The physical pack is 141kWh, rated at 135kWh.

Nobody knows the vehicle pack degradation the instruments.

You'd have to run a capacity test (charge 100%, drive to 0%, charge to 100%, see the actual kWh absorbed during that session, not the kWh "dispensed.")

I think "Out of Spec" did an actual kWh capacity test.
That would be the only way to know degradation.
The software is telling a story of interpolated values.

My R1T "says" its range is 290 (12% below 328) but who knows, that's its projection.
290 miles at 1.8 mi/kWh = 161 kWh
So that's a bogus number, too. : )

If I look at the average 1.8 mi/kWh, the EPA for '22 and '23 is different, so using the '22 range of
https://www.fueleconomy.gov/feg/bymodel/2022_Rivian_R1T.shtml
48 kWh/100 mile = 2.08 mi/kWh
2.08 / 1.8 * 290 = 335 miles … so the 290 is also just a number.
The original rated range was 314 on 21's. I'm 20's with snow tires.
EPA rating of 48kWh/100mile is rated "at the plug" so it accounts for charging losses. Actual vehicle "drive" efficiency is higher than that. The EPA number is useful when doing relative comparisons between vehicles as well as for cost estimates -- since we pay for what is consumed at the plug, including charging losses. But for battery efficiency/degradation, the EPA number is, by-definition, lower than what you're actually getting.
 

240vPlug

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Battery degradation is something a lot of folks worry about. I have been driving EVs for going on 7 years now. Degradation is not normally an issue these days with active thermal management. There is a normal amount of degradation after the 1st year and after that it tapers off. Even folks that almost exclusively DCFC are not seeing significant increase in degradation (not rivian specific here). Charging over 90% frequently, discharging it below 10% frequently, or charging to 100% and allowing the vehicle to sit with a high state of charge will most certainly accelerate degradation. Set your charge limit to 85% and only charge above that for road trips. Try to avoid running it below 10% if possible.

To measure degradation, unless the vehicle had a mechanism for doing this, you must charge to 100%, fully discharge, and then fully recharge to 100%. This will tell you how much you pulled out of the battery, and then how much you were able to put back into the battery. You also want to know what the official usable capacity of the battery is from new. Using this information you can fairly accurately determine your degradation. Most of that will happen in the first 12 months though. With different brands it is fairly normal to see about 10% degradation over 100k miles. Sometimes a little more or a little less. I suspect a lot of that probably occurs in the first year....at least half of it.
 
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LL75

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Battery degradation is something a lot of folks worry about. I have been driving EVs for going on 7 years now. Degradation is not normally an issue these days with active thermal management. There is a normal amount of degradation after the 1st year and after that it tapers off. Even folks that almost exclusively DCFC are not seeing significant increase in degradation (not rivian specific here). Charging over 90% frequently, discharging it below 10% frequently, or charging to 100% and allowing the vehicle to sit with a high state of charge will most certainly accelerate degradation. Set your charge limit to 85% and only charge above that for road trips. Try to avoid running it below 10% if possible.

To measure degradation, unless the vehicle had a mechanism for doing this, you must charge to 100%, fully discharge, and then fully recharge to 100%. This will tell you how much you pulled out of the battery, and then how much you were able to put back into the battery. You also want to know what the official usable capacity of the battery is from new. Using this information you can fairly accurately determine your degradation. Most of that will happen in the first 12 months though. With different brands it is fairly normal to see about 10% degradation over 100k miles. Sometimes a little more or a little less. I suspect a lot of that probably occurs in the first year....at least half of it.
There are plenty of Rivian owners going past 1 year mark. If most of the degradation is in the first year, I would like to see how many have tested.
 

240vPlug

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There are plenty of Rivian owners going past 1 year mark. If most of the degradation is in the first year, I would like to see how many have tested.
I should clarify...the largest chunk of normal degradation happens in the first year or so. With other EV I have seen between 2-3% on the low end to upwards of 10% on the high end.

I would like to see this info as well. If the BMS does a good job at managing the battery, and I have every reason to believe Rivian does, then degradation should be minimized.

Kyle did some tow testing on the R1T and the thermal issues he identified he later found out were due to some conservative temperature management by the Rivian engineers....according to Kyle. Tesla allows their pack to get quite a bit hotter before it's starts the thermal throttling.

I expect Rivian will stay very conservative until it's collecting more long term data from it's growing fleet.
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