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If anyone wants to add back 12v in the frunk...

shift4

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Ok, but is that simple and straightforward? Any chance of easily breaking tabs or clips?
It is pretty simple/straight forward. I did break a couple clips when I first removed it, but bought some replacement clips from Amazon so no harm done. I plan to write up a more in-depth tutorial for wiring a new 12V when I get around to doing it myself.
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kozak79

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It is pretty simple/straight forward. I did break a couple clips when I first removed it, but bought some replacement clips from Amazon so no harm done. I plan to write up a more in-depth tutorial for wiring a new 12V when I get around to doing it myself.
Have you done the 12V install yet? Would love a tutorial.
 

theadonnan

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I'd like to see someone depin the connector vs cut/splice into the wiring.
 

Curt

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I believe I found the equivalent connector on Amazon, not as cheap but I am happy to pay more to get it in 2 days instead of 2 months. *EDIT* - This connector appears to be a mirrored version of the one in the truck, so I canceled the order and will keep looking for the correct connector.
www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVJ4VYQR?psc=1&smid=AHA94H3BYL0NF&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp
515LUvR8EcL._SL1000_.jpg


I also ordered this 2-socket 12V outlet splitter, since my end goal is to have both the frunk water tank and frunk cooler/freezer that @BoxGods is making plugged in.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09MKS53XK?smid=AVUQZYQXFYZNI&ref_=chk_typ_imgToDp&th=1
61u1fPrhcgL._AC_SL1500_.jpg


I will update how the installation goes once I receive both.
Did you ever complete this install?

Has anyone done a frunk / battery area teardown video that would be approachable for someone like me who's a little wary of ripping apart their luxury truck?
Ok, but is that simple and straightforward? Any chance of easily breaking tabs or clips?
Ripping off the driver side panels only helps you verify if you have the constant 12v power on the harness. You'd still have to remove the tub, which requires pulling off the trim for driver+pax+air filter covers, 6 bolts, and the two existing harnesses to remove the tub.

Removing the tub would help you drill the hole as well as remove the plastic housing holding the weatherproof cables.

You can only drill into one the top of where one of the plastic housing covers are, in which you'd also have to remove the adhesive + existing housing and reapply once the outlet is installed. You'd have to install it into this housing otherwise the new outlet would be blocked by the frame when setting the tub back down.

I need to get back to this another day with the proper connectors and weatherproofing material to get this done, should've read this thread first!
 
 




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