NEW Rivian Phone Holder w/ Riser Arm V2 (Patent Pending) Available w/ Semiconductor Cooling MagSafe/Qi2 Wireless Charger from EveryAmp

[JM.]

To add to this, if you want to know the exact tech, google "Peltier junction." It's a solid state heat pump made from two different semiconductor materials. One side gets hot, one side gets cold. They are insanely inefficient but in this scale, that's irrelevant. But the fridges made with them are awful. They can also only cool to a relative temperature from ambient, unlike a compressor cooling system which always reaches freezing (approximately). All of this is just fine for this application (and other small applications, not large ones). This is why the charger consumes 27w while only putting 15w into the phone.

If you reverse the polarity, you reverse the cooling. So you could heat your phone and cool your car, LOL!

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[mkhuffman]

I purchased this in preparation for my R1T delivery next week. I have a Samsung S25 Ultra. To use this charger you need a case that has a magnet. I am using the "Speck - Presidio2 Grip and Magnet Case for Samsung Galaxy S25 Ultra - Black" case purchased from Best Buy.

So I don't have my R1T yet, but I hooked this up in my Mach-e using the OBDII connection. It works great. I have yet to use it on my long 145-mile commute to work, but using the OBDII connector it charges my phone, and the pad holds it firmly in place.

I am very excited about this product. It isn't cheap, but sometimes you get what you pay for. In this case I think it is true.

After I get my T, I will do another post with how it is working.

 

[photontorque]

This is why the charger consumes 27w while only putting 15w into the phone.

Thanks for the description, very helpful.

Is the power draw:
1. 27 W total, of which 15 W goes to the phone, and 12 W goes to the charger, or
2. 42 W total, with 27W going to the charger plus 15 W going to the phone?

 

[EveryAmp]

Thanks for the description, very helpful.

Is the power draw:
1. 27 W total, of which 15 W goes to the phone, and 12 W goes to the charger, or
2. 42 W total, with 27W going to the charger plus 15 W going to the phone?

1. 27 W total, of which 15 W goes to the phone, and 12 W goes to the charger

 

[mkhuffman]

I love this product. It works exactly as advertised, charging very quickly and keeping my phone cool.

The installation location is a little tight. I bump my phone when putting the truck into drive. But that isn't an issue with the mount. There just isn't much space between the displays and the drive selector. Also, my steering wheel is at maximum height, so definitely a lower wheel position reduces interference.

I had trouble getting leverage to snap the bracket into the back of the display case. I used the plastic pry tool to get it to snap into the third slot. See picture.

I routed my wires differently than in the instructions. I routed it along a space in the cover around where the brake pedal is, and brought it up alongside the steering wheel, and then across to behind the display. I don't follow directions well.

 

[JM.]

The installation location is a little tight. I bump my phone when putting the truck into drive.

There are a large number of small/light/cheap 17mm extension arms all over Amazon. They will give you some lift and move the phone towards you, as desired, to get it out of the way. On my Tesla I use a very small one for the same reason.

 

[Tim-in-CA]

Hi Everyone!

Some of you may have already heard from being a subscriber to our infrequent newsletter, but we've just launched a completely new version of our popular Dash Anchor, added a Qi2 Charger option, and an easy plug and play OBD2 to USB adapter to power it.
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TL;DR
- You can watch our short video here
- Save 10% on all EveryAmp products with coupon code RIVFORUM at EveryAmp.com
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Compared to Version 1, Version 2 is easier to install and fits all model years and trims of the R1 family without needing adjustment. It clamps onto the metal vents behind the screen which makes for a much more rigid mounting point overall. For the raised arm version, we made it one piece to further increase the strength, while the low/standard height mount maintains the ability to install on either side of the screen (more on that in a separate post) with 17mm, 20mm, 22mm, and 25mm ball mounts.

This post will focus on our Arm version of the Dash Anchor which fits on the driver side of the center display, away from any potential open windows, and in view.



Our new Dash Anchor installs in seconds, without any adhesives or modifications to your vehicle. It attaches to the metal vents on the back of the center display, avoiding contact with your dash or plastic HVAC vents.



We are currently offering the Arm version with a 17mm ball and options to add-on our actively cooled Qi2 charger, magnetic mount, or clamp mount.



Actively cooled wireless charging is critical to maximizing charge speeds and protecting your phone's battery - especially when mounted on a vehicle dash. Without active cooling you'll find that your device will barely maintain its state of charge or even slowly drop if being used while on the charger. This is due to the phone protecting itself from the heat generated while charging and operating. You won't find that problem with our Qi2 charger. We were skeptical that it would work as well as it does, but it's wild that you remove the phone from the charger and it actually feels cool on the back!



There are many ways to get power to the charger. We chose a simple path that takes less than 5 minutes to install, no splicing of wires, or messing around with fuses. Our OBD2 to USB adapter has side mounted ports to keep the USB cable away from being kicked when installed near the dead pedal. Installation steps can be found on our website or you can watch them here.









Stay Amped!
Team EveryAmp

Can you confirm if there are any issues using the cooler charger and either the center console or rear lower USBC ports? I already have something else occupying my OBD2 port and do not wish to unplug/replug the adapter. Also, is your code still working for Rivian discount? Thanks!

 

[EveryAmp]

Can you confirm if there are any issues using the cooler charger and either the center console or rear lower USBC ports? I already have something else occupying my OBD2 port and do not wish to unplug/replug the adapter. Also, is your code still working for Rivian discount? Thanks!

When we last checked, the USB-C ports in the Rivian only supply 15W, so it will work, but they're not capable of supplying the full 27W needed for full-power charging and cooling of a charger like this.

The discount code is still active.

 

[Tim-in-CA]

When we last checked, the USB-C ports in the Rivian only supply 15W, so it will work, but they're not capable of supplying the full 27W needed for full-power charging and cooling of a charger like this.

The discount code is still active.

Thanks, so will the charger AND cooler run at reduced wattage or will only the charging portion function? I'm OK with slower charging rates, but really need the cooling feature. Right now, I use a MagSafe charger connected to the center console USBC port and keep the iPhone in a dash mount (other brand) and with the screen on with Waze, the display will eventually go into reduced brightness mode due to overheating. The phone hasn't given me the over temp warning yet, but the display is too dim to clearly read in the daytime.

 

[EveryAmp]

Thanks, so will the charger AND cooler run at reduced wattage or will only the charging portion function? I'm OK with slower charging rates, but really need the cooling feature. Right now, I use a MagSafe charger connected to the center console USBC port and keep the iPhone in a dash mount (other brand) and with the screen on with Waze, the display will eventually go into reduced brightness mode due to overheating. The phone hasn't given me the over temp warning yet, but the display is too dim to clearly read in the daytime.

It definitely still charges and cools, but I don't have a hard number on exactly at what rates.

One thing you could consider is using a battery pack in line. You'd need one that supports pass-through charging, so it would charge itself at 15W and supply 27W at the same time. I used to do something similar in my early Model 3 with a pack from Zendure.

 

[JM.]

My observation with a 15w-ish power supply was that charging was ultra slow and cooling was minimal. I say 15-ish because sometimes cheap chargers run even lower than spec, and I didn't actually measure it. Now I'm using the proper power and it's crazy fast plus cold. You might consider an OBD splitter or the high power hardwire kit from RAM that I posted earlier.

Splitters come in various formats.
https://www.amazon.com/LAINLOY-OBD2-Splitter-Extension-Diagnostic/dp/B0D8J9CPWJ
https://www.amazon.com/YPP-Pass-Through-J1962M-J1962F-Splitter/dp/B086SF3BJ6

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