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LL75

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I'll test that specific song out later today. But song "Sicko" was rattling for me prior to fix and now it is not.
Update on mine. This Dallas center is horrific. They blamed it on a couple of loose bottle of drinks and loose change on 3rd row. They didn't even test it after remove them with high bass songs like I showed them when dropped off. I gave up on them about this
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Update on mine. This Dallas center is horrific. They blamed it on a couple of loose bottle of drinks and loose change on 3rd row. They didn't even test it after remove them with high bass songs like I showed them when dropped off. I gave up on them about this
Man that sucks, sorry to hear. Mine is ok for now. If it returns idk if i'll go back to them. Maybe will take it to an audio shop and have them figure it out.
 

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Man that sucks, sorry to hear. Mine is ok for now. If it returns idk if i'll go back to them. Maybe will take it to an audio shop and have them figure it out.
Yeap. Guess I need to play less bass musics!!
 

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For inquiring minds that want to know.

My sub did not rattle all of the time, but annoying when it did. Here are pictures and info on the disassembly. The results are, it's much better now. I can hear slight vibrations from the door panels, but it's not really noticeable. I used a frequency generator on my phone via bluetooth to max out the vibrations. 50 - 70hz worked well. My noise was caused by the sub box touching the acoustical stuff they spray on the sheet metal of the fender. See circles drawn on the pics. You can see the scratches on the back of the box. I applied adhesive felt to the back of the box and to anything else that I thought might cause a noise. Not sure how much of the box might touch so that's why I put several strips on the box. If you push on the outside of the fender and the noise stops, that's probably the/one of the causes. Probably took three hours going slow and careful.

So I removed two panels in the rear door, the main panel and the small one covering the tailgate lock. I also removed the following, but that might not be required. It just made it easier to work. Two of the ducts for the rear vent, the aluminium tie down channel and the felt strip next to that.


Here is some helpful info.

I would lightly lubricate the metal clips after removal to make it easier to push back in and remove.

The vertical panel on the rear of the rear door has three metal clips. See circled pics. They are very tough to pull out. The plastic towers began to tear away from the panel. I would recommend using a tool to pry them out as best as you can instead of just pulling. Not a bad idea for any metal clip if you can. The white plastic ones come out easily.

The main panel, upper right by the lift gate. Mine completely broke off (the little white clip/tower). Not because of pulling, but it was sheared off when I was moving the panel around and it got caught. So it breaks off easily. I removed that panel by doing the front and back first (sides). Three remaining metal clips are at the top close to the window, pull away from the window horizontally. Thanks aw113sgte for the info.

When re-assembling, I would put some stuff back, test it, put a little more back, test it etc...




Anyone know where the audio unit/amplifier is located? Maybe under the dash?

Also saw a plastic tube cut off under the sub? Maybe some sort of vent or something they changed their mind on building. See the pic.

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Thank you for your photos. This was very helpful with planning and doing the sub/amp swap. My sub enclosure was not mounted at the diagonal point and i couldn't figure out how to remove the vent tube. Any tips? From your photos, it looks like the approach is from the bottom?
 
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Thank you for your photos. This was very helpful with planning and doing the sub/amp swap. My sub enclosure was not mounted at the diagonal point and i couldn't figure out how to remove the vent tube. Any tips? From your photos, it looks like the approach is from the bottom?

What do you mean by "enclosure was not mounted at the diagonal point"? Our vehicles might be different if they changed something in the factory. Mine is a 10,xxx vin number. The vent was just remove a nut and then wrestle it out. You have to bend and pull it. I may have been able to remove the box without removing the vent, but did not want to drop a loose nut down into the abyss.

Rivian R1T R1S R1S Subwoofer removal, vibration rattle fix and pics 1703435200069
 

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What do you mean by "enclosure was not mounted at the diagonal point"? Our vehicles might be different if they changed something in the factory. Mine is a 10,xxx vin number. The vent was just remove a nut and then wrestle it out. You have to bend and pull it. I may have been able to remove the box without removing the vent, but did not want to drop a loose nut down into the abyss.

1703435200069.png
Ah I missed that on the vent. I'll have to take another look. Thanks!

Mine is a 54xx 2023 and sounds like it changed. The sub enclosure had a flange on the bottom left and a mounting bracket to the frame
 

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Hey guys, I know this is an old thread, but since it appears that you have gone through a trunk teardown, I wanted to see if you know where the cabin pressure equalizer vent flappers are. My doors on my gen2 R1S are not closing right when all other doors are closed but they close fine when a door is open, signaling that the pressure vent flapper is stuck and not allowing the air to move. Most cars have the pressure vent in the side of the bumper but not sure where R1S has it. I took it in service twice already and they don't want to tell me where the vent is. They said that they checked it and blamed it on the design of the car. They aligned the doors but that didn't help much. Thank you in advance.
 

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Hey guys, I know this is an old thread, but since it appears that you have gone through a trunk teardown, I wanted to see if you know where the cabin pressure equalizer vent flappers are. My doors on my gen2 R1S are not closing right when all other doors are closed but they close fine when a door is open, signaling that the pressure vent flapper is stuck and not allowing the air to move. Most cars have the pressure vent in the side of the bumper but not sure where R1S has it. I took it in service twice already and they don't want to tell me where the vent is. They said that they checked it and blamed it on the design of the car. They aligned the doors but that didn't help much. Thank you in advance.
I have a vague recollection of seeing those just about the rear wheel wells (if you take apart the interior trim in that area, just behind the 3rd row /assuming an R1S here/) I think I've seen them there but it's been a while since I took this apart so I could be mistaken.
 

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I have a vague recollection of seeing those just about the rear wheel wells (if you take apart the interior trim in that area, just behind the 3rd row /assuming an R1S here/) I think I've seen them there but it's been a while since I took this apart so I could be mistaken.
Thank you for the quick response. R1S indeed. Do you recall which side it was, the driver side or the passenger side? Or does it have it on both sides?
 

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Thank you for the quick response. R1S indeed. Do you recall which side it was, the driver side or the passenger side? Or does it have it on both sides?
Honestly, 0 recollection but just thinking logically if I ever saw it it must have been on the passenger side. The reason is that I was taking apart the plastic trims to look for the subwoofer which on the Gen1 was on the passenger side. Since then I traded in my Gen1 for a Gen2 R1S but I haven't taken apart any trim on the Gen2 yet.
 

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Honestly, 0 recollection but just thinking logically if I ever saw it it must have been on the passenger side. The reason is that I was taking apart the plastic trims to look for the subwoofer which on the Gen1 was on the passenger side. Since then I traded in my Gen1 for a Gen2 R1S but I haven't taken apart any trim on the Gen2 yet.

Thanks again for the response. I can't really see it anywhere in the pictures of the passenger side. It may be down lower or on the driver side since there is a louvered vent on the driver side panel. I may just deal with it for now or book another appointment if it doesn't improve. Taking that panel apart looks fun though.
 

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Thanks again for the response. I can't really see it anywhere in the pictures of the passenger side. It may be down lower or on the driver side since there is a louvered vent on the driver side panel. I may just deal with it for now or book another appointment if it doesn't improve. Taking that panel apart looks fun though.
just to confirm - is yours a Gen1 or 2?
 

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just to confirm - is yours a Gen1 or 2?
Gen 2. Just wondering, do you see a huge difference on yours when you close a rear door - if another door is opened or not?
 

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Gen 2. Just wondering, do you see a huge difference on yours when you close a rear door - if another door is opened or not?
Got ya! Yes, same issue on my Gen2 R1S... the last door to close you have to slam hard. Rivian mobile tech look into it and said c'est la vie. Silly really, because that's easily fixable with software - just crack a window open when a door is open, just like cars with frameless windows do it (for a different reason though).
Waiting for some Rivian engineer to see this thread and realize how brilliant my solution is and give me a free R2 as a reward 😀
 

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Got ya! Yes, same issue on my Gen2 R1S... the last door to close you have to slam hard. Rivian mobile tech look into it and said c'est la vie. Silly really, because that's easily fixable with software - just crack a window open when a door is open, just like cars with frameless windows do it (for a different reason though).
Waiting for some Rivian engineer to see this thread and realize how brilliant my solution is and give me a free R2 as a reward 😀
I agree. I never liked the limp frameless windows on teslas and was excited for full frame doors on Rivian but now the pressure issue is just silly. I approve your R2 reward!
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