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Truck is now bricked due to 12v battery issue [updated title]

Throwdown

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They're AGM.
Nice, I heard they also use two, I'm not sure why or if that's true, but if the battery sensor is part of the battery and not a separate part then the reason for the high replacements would likely be due to the sensor failing or not taking an update and the battery then won't charge properly if at all and as soon as you lock the car or put it in park it would give a dead battery sensation.
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CommodoreAmiga

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Nice, I heard they also use two, I'm not sure why or if that's true, but if the battery sensor is part of the battery and not a separate part then the reason for the high replacements would likely be due to the sensor failing or not taking an update and the battery then won't charge properly if at all and as soon as you lock the car or put it in park it would give a dead battery sensation.
I think the two batteries is because of packaging constraints and wanting to use off-the-shelf batteries.

AFAIK there are no sensors in the batteries, themselves.
 

Throwdown

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I think the two batteries is because of packaging constraints and wanting to use off-the-shelf batteries.

AFAIK there are no sensors in the batteries, themselves.
Yeah I'm just guessing about the sensors one day I might access mine and take a look. The cars I work on do it both ways and with both battery types agm and lifepo.
The parasitic drain is obviously not helping the 12v batteries have an easier life either. They told me 2% loss a day is normal, but they are working on it. 0% should be normal, 2% HV battery state of charge loss equates to about a 15A draw on the 12v system while it is sitting unused which is mind numbingly high of a draw.
 

Budman

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I had an order in for a Ford Mach-e at the same time I had my Rivian order in. Canceled the Mach-e and kept the Rivian (no regrets!). But I followed the Mach-e forum and it is full of 12V battery issues. Not a Rivian only issue.
 

Throwdown

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I had an order in for a Ford Mach-e at the same time I had my Rivian order in. Canceled the Mach-e and kept the Rivian (no regrets!). But I followed the Mach-e forum and it is full of 12V battery issues. Not a Rivian only issue.
Yep, as far as I know it's industry wide and for various reasons. My experience is with built in battery sensor failure which makes the 12v unusable, even if it is technically good past the sensor.
 

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NY_Rob

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I had an order in for a Ford Mach-e at the same time I had my Rivian order in. Canceled the Mach-e and kept the Rivian (no regrets!). But I followed the Mach-e forum and it is full of 12V battery issues. Not a Rivian only issue.
It's an issue because some manufacturers just plain refuse to shut down unnecessary systems that run off the 12V batts when the vehicle is not being used. Gobs of telemetric data is being broadcast 24/7/365 from these vehicles and it's killing the undersized 12V batts.
My i3 is still on it's original 12V battery from 2017, it's 5+yrs old now with no indications of failing.
 

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Yep, you can lock a taycan and it will sit there idle and lose no power until the 12v eventually dies. One of the things porsche gets right for sure, there is minimal 12v drain and no HV battery drain.
 

Pdm1230

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Have they sorted this out to be a software issue yet ? Mine experienced the exact same issue last week. We went to an event at the school for the kids. Came out and the truck wouldn't go into reverse or drive. Went through all the usual trouble shooting but that just caused the truck to go completely dead. Couldn't even get my stuff out of the gear tunnel.

They towed it to Brooklyn and gave it back after 5 days with new batteries. Everyone seems to be getting different diagnoses. Some say a module, some say a "loose connection" which is what I was told. Others have mentioned software and some just say bad batteries. But the timing and frequency lines up with the last update.

I hate that there's no concrete answer to what happened. It's a hard proposition to go on long road trips. Imagine off roading and getting stuck. My situation was within 90 min of a service center and even then it was a hassle. I feel bad for those people hours away.

Hopefully a patch is released soon. I'm disappointed in the lack of transparency. The service center is clearly seeing the same issue over and over but no one is discussing a larger issue. Replacing batteries over and over is unsustainable.
 

NY_Rob

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I'm disappointed in the lack of transparency. The service center is clearly seeing the same issue over and over but no one is discussing a larger issue. Replacing batteries over and over is unsustainable.
I agree, it is a frustrating situation.
It seems like there are several issues that can kill the tiny/fragile 12V batts. You were told it was a loose connection, so that's most likely what it was. I would rather have that vs. a failed module.

One takeaway.. if you're on a trip/vacation/off the grid... do not apply an available update till you're back home.

I wonder if it might be a good practice to "top off" the 12V batts with a home charger before applying an update?
 

electruck

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Has anyone attempted to install a Bluetooth 12V battery monitor (or more likely a pair) to track battery health and duty cycle (since Rivian doesn't expose this data)?
 

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Pdm1230

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I agree, it is a frustrating situation.
It seems like there are several issues that can kill the tiny/fragile 12V batts. You were told it was a loose connection, so that's most likely what it was. I would rather have that vs. a failed module.

One takeaway.. if you're on a trip/vacation/off the grid... do not apply an available update till you're back home.

I wonder if it might be a good practice to "top off" the 12V batts with a home charger before applying an update?
I agree about never installing an update on the road. My concern is this happened to me a few weeks after. I agree it could be unrelated to an update, but if it's a situation where the problems arise weeks later that's scary.
 

tjaco007

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I'm having PaaK issues with my Samsung after the update. My wife is not, odd. Shows as registered but not actually working.
Same exact thing. S20 FE, car doesn't recognize it as a key at all. Wife's iphone works great (dang apple). I've tried everything short of factory resetting my phone, which I'll likely do tonight.
 

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Same exact thing. S20 FE, car doesn't recognize it as a key at all. Wife's iphone works great (dang apple). I've tried everything short of factory resetting my phone, which I'll likely do tonight.
Haha, only in my case my wife has the a Samsung z flip4 and it works fine. That's the puzzling bit.
 

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It's very sad to see all these bricked trucks due to the recent updates. This is what happened to me and something you guys may want to try to see if it'll help : I've had recurrent 12V battery issues, mostly after the updates. My main symptom was "motor fault detected" warning that would randomly come on almost every other morning, but then go away after a sleep cycle. This progressed to " Service 12 Volt Battery" fault. I had my 12V battery replaced once. But then after the most recent update, the "motor fault defect" came back on. This informed me that the 12V Battery was running at a lower steady state and not fully charging. So what I did was disconnect my 12V phone charger that was hooked to the under-dash 12V outlet, and charge my R1T to 100% charge...not the usual 70% max that I was charging every night). I noticed immediately the "motor fault detected" was gone and didn't come back. I then charged to 85% for the next couple of days. I'm back to charging only 70% max at night and still no faults noted and the truck is running like a champ. So maybe try having your truck charged to a higher than normal state (85% to 100%) before and after any updates to see if it'll top off the 12V batteries.
 

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It's an issue because some manufacturers just plain refuse to shut down unnecessary systems that run off the 12V batts when the vehicle is not being used. Gobs of telemetric data is being broadcast 24/7/365 from these vehicles and it's killing the undersized 12V batts.
My i3 is still on it's original 12V battery from 2017, it's 5+yrs old now with no indications of failing.
But even with this approach, shouldn't the system realize the 12v hits a low voltage threshold, close the traction battery contactors, and activate the 12v charging system? Should have enough power for a real long time anyway. Not saying they shouldn't get the 12v under better control, but something must fail to recognize the need for 12v system charging, right?
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