Vehicle to Load dongle from charge port!

[R1S-DMPerformance]

I really don't know what Rivian owner wouldn't want this.

If you own an R1S, as I do, and you go camping, as I do, and you want to run an extension cord to your tent, well unless you leave a window or door open...good luck.

There is no way to fully secure your vehicle while camping and running an extension cord to your tent for power, sure R1Ts have the outlets in the bed, but there is still no 240v so I would say R1T and R1S is really the same deal.

Why aren't any of you complaining to Rivian that we need them to make a dongle that plugs to the charge port and that supports 120v and 240v??

This is just a major let down thus far, since it's something that Rivian could do NOW, and all their vehicles are hardware capable to doing it, Gen1 or Gen2s.

So please, b1tch and moan to Rivian to get their a$$es on this.

We all complained that there was no way to quickly swap wheel setup in the vehicle, between street and AT wheels, and now we have it.

Lets do the same for a V2L dongle that supports 120v and 240v.

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[GizmoCart]

There’s a way to route and extension cord through the corner of the rear lower gate and down through bumper and still close the gate. Try it.

 

[GizmoCart]

There’s a way to route and extension cord through the corner of the rear lower gate and down through bumper and still close the gate. Try it.

More description here:

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-power-backup-my-experience.17230/post-367544

 

[donguanella]

There’s a way to route and extension cord through the corner of the rear lower gate and down through bumper and still close the gate. Try it.

Can confirm this is the way.

 

[R1S-DMPerformance]

And this is the "official" way of doing it? Or just a Jerry rigged method that happens to work?

 

[R1TandMe]

And this is the "official" way of doing it? Or just a Jerry rigged method that happens to work?

Does it matter? If it works it works.

 

[vandy1981]

Why aren't any of you complaining to Rivian that we need them to make a dongle that plugs to the charge port and that supports 120v and 240v??

It would be a nice feature for the R1, but it's not going to happen. As others have said there are ways to run extension cords from the interior outlets and still keep the vehicle secure.

The Gen1 and Gen2 R1's are not capable of exporting AC through the charge port. It can only output DC through the charge port and an external inverter will be required for V2L/V2H capabilities. The R2 will have this capability at launch, though.

 

[Ric G]

Worked perfectly for two days after the hurricane until power was restored. I just set the timer in the truck and was careful not to overload the circuit. Plugged in the fridge, router, wifi and a few small lamps.

 

[R1S-DMPerformance]

So that's the Jerry rigged method right, ok thanks for posting.

Another thought was to run it out the back passenger window and painters blue tape up the gap at the top of the window.

Running through the rear tail gate like that could potentially wear out the seals that prevent water coming in if you were to dip into 3 foot deep water crossings. Which the vehicle is officially rated for.

 

[malditofman]

I really don't know what Rivian owner wouldn't want this.

If you own an R1S, as I do, and you go camping, as I do, and you want to run an extension cord to your tent, well unless you leave a window or door open...good luck.

There is no way to fully secure your vehicle while camping and running an extension cord to your tent for power, sure R1Ts have the outlets in the bed, but there is still no 240v so I would say R1T and R1S is really the same deal.

Why aren't any of you complaining to Rivian that we need them to make a dongle that plugs to the charge port and that supports 120v and 240v??

This is just a major let down thus far, since it's something that Rivian could do NOW, and all their vehicles are hardware capable to doing it, Gen1 or Gen2s.

So please, b1tch and moan to Rivian to get their a$$es on this.

We all complained that there was no way to quickly swap wheel setup in the vehicle, between street and AT wheels, and now we have it.

Lets do the same for a V2L dongle that supports 120v and 240v.

Whine Festival can stop any time. An extension cord can be routed with the R1S secure. If one needed 240, and Rivian was known not to offer it, then it terrible judgement to buy a Rivian. When tent camping on the ground the R1T actually makes more sense than the R1S for many. If sleeping in the vehicle is preferred, then the R1S makes sense for those campers. Most who camp just don't need 240. Most don't bring a welder with to Joshua Tree. Drive well.

 

[R1S-DMPerformance]

Whine Festival can stop any time. An extension cord can be routed with the R1S secure. If one needed 240, and Rivian was known not to offer it, then it terrible judgement to buy a Rivian. When tent camping on the ground the R1T actually makes more sense than the R1S for many. If sleeping in the vehicle is preferred, then the R1S makes sense for those campers. Most who camp just don't need 240. Most don't bring a welder with to Joshua Tree. Drive well.

Not officially it cant, only Jerry rigged.

240v to fast charge my stark varg, 240v to charge another ev in distress, 240v to run a portable AC/heater while camping, etc etc etc. And yeah if you brake a tie rod while off roading, so you can weld it back up and be able to drive home.

It's a 100k+ ADVENTURE vehicle, whining continues until its officially addressed.

 

[Zoidz]

So that's the Jerry rigged method right, ok thanks for posting.

Another thought was to run it out the back passenger window and painters blue tape up the gap at the top of the window.

Running through the rear tail gate like that could potentially wear out the seals that prevent water coming in if you were to dip into 3 foot deep water crossings. Which the vehicle is officially rated for.

Geez, this is really grasping for straws for something to whine about.

As stated, Rivian's design does not provide the option to output AC from the charge port, and it's an added, unnecessary expense for the vast majority of owners. Make it an option (which they are working on via V2H).

You can half the diameter of the cord by using a flat appliance cord. Run it out 3 feet above ground. At any rate, this is not going to damage the seal.

 

[risingphoenix]

I got this one (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C9HK2J62?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_5&th=1) so it fits easily in the spare tire compartment and can reach up to the RTT on my R1S (and charge peripherals). Although recently I've been just using an Anker Solix during the night when camping to avoid firing up the inefficient Rivian BMS and then just charge the Solix when driving. YMMV.

 

[blturner]

Not officially it cant, only Jerry rigged.

240v to fast charge my stark varg, 240v to charge another ev in distress, 240v to run a portable AC/heater while camping, etc etc etc. And yeah if you brake a tie rod while off roading, so you can weld it back up and be able to drive home.

It's a 100k+ ADVENTURE vehicle, whining continues until its officially addressed.

I am in the same boat of wishing for 240v output. I would rarely need it but it would be nice. The 120v comes from an inverter located under the passenger seat. Having it on requires that the whole computer system be awake and running. It burns ~400 watts just being turned on. Enough to heat up the cabin. I use it for a mini fridge in the back seat. The mini fridge has to run more to compensate for the added heat of the inverter. Not ideal.

It would make sense that the 240v charge input should work in reverse, but because it converts the AC in to 400v DC to charge the car, it does it with electronics that don't work in reverse. It is not a simple transformer.

 

[BCondrey]

The charge port doesn't support AC coming out of the vehicle. That isn't gonna happen. I'd rather buy my own flat extension cord and route it as others have indicated. Who needs another overpriced accessory?

When Rivian does provide V2H it will be with DC out from the truck, to an external inverter to provide AC to a panel via interlock or transfer switch. I suppose there could be a 240V outlet on the inverter. Or, maybe a smaller inverter just for 120/240 outlets.

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