Kuro-Rivian
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Apr 26, 2022
- Threads
- 18
- Messages
- 403
- Reaction score
- 684
- Location
- Minneapolis
- Vehicles
- 1969 BMW 2002
- Thread starter
- #1
Nothing particularly earth shattering but....
1. I actually brought my truck back to life the night before by jumping the primary battery at the rear jump point for a minute. For whatever reason, that reset everything and by the time the tech arrived the next day the truck had fully charged (on it's own) the batteries. It was normal/driveable except for some error codes that need to be cleared. Batteries were replaced anyways as they had been discharged down below 5 volts. Earlier in the day I jumped the secondary battery. While it woke the truck up too, it was only temporary and the batteries discharged again once charger removed. Don't ask me what all this means, I have no idea just reporting what transpired.
2. The Rivian batteries are just cheap sealed lead acid batteries. 12V 18ah. I've got a ton of them laying around I use on my race cars. They are the exact same, probably all made in the same factory (hah). Size, ah, post locations & thread size...everything. See pics, sorry the Rivian one is fuzzy (I deleted the wrong image).
3. Apparently the passenger battery (secondary) controls anything on the right side of the truck and the primary everything on the left side of the truck. Weird. And because of that you need to make sure you have the negative terminals jumpered of you ever disconnect & reconnect your batteries. They both need to be powered on at the exact same time lest the system may not sync correctly.
4. Removing the frunk and getting access to everything is ridiculously easy. Remove trim and it exposes 6 bolts and two electrical connectors for the emergency frunk exit...boom frunk out in like 15 minutes. Be prepared though, you'll break a fair amount of clips doing so. What the frunk removal exposes is the beauty of the simplicity of an EV compared to an ICE vehicle. The electronics/software aside of course. In these pics (again not great ones) you can see the ABS pump (next to foot). The AC compressor (simple to service). The two inverters below the battery. The heater (aka a blow dryer on left side, hard to see). The seat chillers (left side - directly opposite the abs pump). Two front motor mounts. Anyways, it's all so simple and easy to access.
Finally, you could clearly replace your own batteries if you wanted. But you won't be able to clear codes. To that end, I did notice that Rivian recently removed the language from the User Manual that say you can get a subscription to the Service Manual on request. Bummer!
Rivian has a lot of good & competent people working in the Minneapolis service center.
1. I actually brought my truck back to life the night before by jumping the primary battery at the rear jump point for a minute. For whatever reason, that reset everything and by the time the tech arrived the next day the truck had fully charged (on it's own) the batteries. It was normal/driveable except for some error codes that need to be cleared. Batteries were replaced anyways as they had been discharged down below 5 volts. Earlier in the day I jumped the secondary battery. While it woke the truck up too, it was only temporary and the batteries discharged again once charger removed. Don't ask me what all this means, I have no idea just reporting what transpired.
2. The Rivian batteries are just cheap sealed lead acid batteries. 12V 18ah. I've got a ton of them laying around I use on my race cars. They are the exact same, probably all made in the same factory (hah). Size, ah, post locations & thread size...everything. See pics, sorry the Rivian one is fuzzy (I deleted the wrong image).
3. Apparently the passenger battery (secondary) controls anything on the right side of the truck and the primary everything on the left side of the truck. Weird. And because of that you need to make sure you have the negative terminals jumpered of you ever disconnect & reconnect your batteries. They both need to be powered on at the exact same time lest the system may not sync correctly.
4. Removing the frunk and getting access to everything is ridiculously easy. Remove trim and it exposes 6 bolts and two electrical connectors for the emergency frunk exit...boom frunk out in like 15 minutes. Be prepared though, you'll break a fair amount of clips doing so. What the frunk removal exposes is the beauty of the simplicity of an EV compared to an ICE vehicle. The electronics/software aside of course. In these pics (again not great ones) you can see the ABS pump (next to foot). The AC compressor (simple to service). The two inverters below the battery. The heater (aka a blow dryer on left side, hard to see). The seat chillers (left side - directly opposite the abs pump). Two front motor mounts. Anyways, it's all so simple and easy to access.
Finally, you could clearly replace your own batteries if you wanted. But you won't be able to clear codes. To that end, I did notice that Rivian recently removed the language from the User Manual that say you can get a subscription to the Service Manual on request. Bummer!
Rivian has a lot of good & competent people working in the Minneapolis service center.
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