Spare tire latch handle snaps . . . will I?

[FraserC]

There is a thriving after market for replacement hood release levers, which ALL vehicle design engineers should be aware of. The rule should be this: If you design a lever actuated device and are considering what material to use, consider how much force would be needed to break it, then consider how much inconvenience the failure would cause. Then question yourself: How much to you care about customer satisfaction, versus saving a dollar for a weak lever....

Just in this thread alone, the number of failures is not just a suggestion of an inadequate design, but a very loud voice from above: "You have failed to design an adequate part, and customers are going to be very angry!"

A lever that costs hundreds of dollars should require serious abuse to result in failure!! And when it happens again..................

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[VSG]

But where would you spray it to be effective in this case?
The latch just pulls a cable that engages a spring-loaded release mechanism, none of the latter is visible/exposed as far as I know.

I don't know the details of your situation, but in my case and others I've read water on the bed surface freezes the lid of the spare tire compartment. This is not necessarily visible, because the water gets in gaps around the edge of the lid where the rubber gasket is. Jumping on the lid will break up the ice. So will the spray. If the lid isn't frozen, you don't have to tug on the release at all. And my experience with my R1T is that pulling the release doesn't cause the lid to pop-up, and it is always held down by the release mechanism. I always have to push down on the lid to get it to disengage from the latch even under ideal circumstances.

I think these things cause people to tug harder on the release than is warranted or necessary, where in fact the release may have already done its work and the lid is just stuck in place because of tension in the latch. A metal release probably wouldn't stop this condition from occurring, but it also probably wouldn't break under these circumstances if it were beefy enough.

 

[Yota2R1T]

I don't know the details of your situation, but in my case and others I've read water on the bed surface freezes the lid of the spare tire compartment. This is not necessarily visible, because the water gets in gaps around the edge of the lid where the rubber gasket is. Jumping on the lid will break up the ice. So will the spray. If the lid isn't frozen, you don't have to tug on the release at all. And my experience with my R1T is that pulling the release doesn't cause the lid to pop-up, and it is always held down by the release mechanism. I always have to push down on the lid to get it to disengage from the latch even under ideal circumstances.

I think these things cause people to tug harder on the release than is warranted or necessary, where in fact the release may have already done its work and the lid is just stuck in place because of tension in the latch. A metal release probably wouldn't stop this condition from occurring, but it also probably wouldn't break under these circumstances if it were beefy enough.

The facts in my case do not support your understanding.
First, I have a near-water tight tonneau cover, and I don't have (any) liquid that stands in my bed.
Second, you are correct that the seal itself can present resistance and impressive suction to limit the release of the lid upon latch actuation, but this is neither the case nor the explanation of the lever failure.
In my case the latch would not operate or budge in the typical motion.
I'm certain the latch does not operate to directly push the lid, but rather to pull a cable-actuated mechanism that would release lid-latches (or some such).
That being said... shit broke when it shouldn'ta.

 

[VSG]

The facts in my case do not support your understanding.

I'm not blaming you for breaking the release, I am simply responding to your question of why I think the spray will help. I explained why it is helpful for me and I explicitly said "I don't know the details of your situation".

In the case I describe, there doesn't need to be "standing water". The bed can look dry in fact. Even a small amount of water that gets in the crack can freeze along the length of that long seal, and that can add up to a large resistance to the lid raising. A thin layer can freeze quickly when it contacts that hidden metal surface, while water on the exposed plastic bed can quickly evaporate.

I also have a tonneau cover which is near water-tight, but you can get condensation in there, because it's not *air* tight, and because the metal under the spare tire lid can get cold.

Regardless, this is my experience now in my fourth winter driving my R1T, and the spray helps in my experience. If you don't find that to be a useful suggestion, then ignore it.

 

[Yota2R1T]

I'm not blaming you for breaking the release, I am simply responding to your question of why I think the spray will help. I explained why it is helpful for me and I explicitly said "I don't know the details of your situation".

In the case I describe, there doesn't need to be "standing water". The bed can look dry in fact. Even a small amount of water that gets in the crack can freeze along the length of that long seal, and that can add up to a large resistance to the lid raising. A thin layer can freeze quickly when it contacts that hidden metal surface, while water on the exposed plastic bed can quickly evaporate.

I also have a tonneau cover which is near water-tight, but you can get condensation in there, because it's not *air* tight, and because the metal under the spare tire lid can get cold.

Regardless, this is my experience now in my fourth winter driving my R1T, and the spray helps in my experience. If you don't find that to be a useful suggestion, then ignore it.

All good, just trying to point out that the seal (frozen or not) wasn't the cause of the resistance.
I should have also noted, that spray looks handy and I did like the general suggestion.
Take care,
R

 

[54North]

OP is correct here. It is definitely not the lid seal or gasket, and I've tried de-icer as well as hair dryers on the lever/handle with no luck. It's either the cables freezing in the cable housing or the latch. All I know is the brakes and derailer on my mountain bike work just fine in the cold. I don't know why Rivian can't acknowledge and find a fix for this.

VSG, are you saying that you can open your spare tire compartment in below freezing temps? I would be curious to know if this is a problem that all R1T owners have or just some of us.

 

[VSG]

VSG, are you saying that you can open your spare tire compartment in below freezing temps? I would be curious to know if this is a problem that all R1T owners have or just some of us.

I do not do this regularly, but yes I have managed to open my spare tire compartment when it is apparently frozen shut. I have had success standing/stomping/jumping on the lid and I have had success using the spray. I have learned not to keep my recovery gear in there in the winter, so these days the only reason I would have to go in there anymore is to get my spare tire out. Which hasn't happened yet ...

But I've also had problems in the summer, where I pull up on the release as hard as I can and nothing happens. Then I remember I actually have to push down on the lid while doing that so that the latch can disengage.

I'm sure there might be other causes for this problem, but mine apparently is mainly the latch mechanism that is under the lid, which gets jammed up because the lid it pulling up too hard on in. When I push down on the lid or stand on the lid it releases the tension and frees up the latch mechanism to operate properly when the release tab is raised.

 

[brperz]

I created a service ticket. I have had quite a bit of bad luck with my truck and the service manager at the Wisconsin service center gave me his email address the last time I was there. I emailed him this morning and told him the latch is frozen again and asked if Rivian has provided a solution for this well known issue yet. He replied:
" As of yet we have no fix for this issue. We do have a vehicle coming in next week with this same issue so if we find a fix that works and its not the same repairs we attempted on your vehicle i'll give you a call. i do recommend holding on to that appointment in the meantime "

Not the answer I was looking for but thankful that he replied to me. I don't have a good feeling about Rivian ever fixing this.

P.S. My truck was in my 32 degree garage overnight and the latch opened with ease this morning.

 

[Yota2R1T]

It's 18° F here in Wisconsin. My truck is outside at work. I just went out to check my lever. Imagine that, it won't budge. Ridiculous. My spare, emergency gear, and hitch are in there. Filing another ticket. This will be the 3rd ticket for this.
Good luck with your repair. I wouldn't accept any answer besides that it's being covered under warranty.
Please reply to this thread with your outcome and any information the service center provides on a permanent fix.

Well, I have an update so I'll post it for those still following and interested.
I went in for my drop off appointment hoping Rivian would have approved the warranty repair, but they had not. My service rep was apologetic and offered to significantly reduce my out of pocket expense on the repair - total cost would have been $250 or so; down from $650.
He also explained the service was extensive, requiring removal of rear bumper and significant rear-end disassembly to access and replace.
To me, it seemed the wrong decision to move forward with the repair, considering the replacement latch handle would just snap in the cold again (likely) and the underlying issue of frozen mechanism would not be addressed or investigated since it's warmed up (above 0 C) now.
Also, I have fear of causing more issues by disassembling factory work during the repair. Mis-alignments, rattles and other unforeseeable problems will suck my time and patience.
In the end, I offered to bring the Truck back when the temp drops again, should Rivian wish to investigate (on their dime). I explained (in email) that my hope was for Rivian to provide me with a warranty repair for the latch when they can approve it, but in the meantime I will continue to expect that my hatch is inaccessible in cold weather, given all I've learned.
For the time-being I'll opt for needle-nose pliers or custom repair solution (credit card-fix??) and keep my $250 on principle.
Also, will update my aftermarket-fix to-do list for the R1T . . .

 

[Dark-Fx]

To me, it seemed the wrong decision to move forward with the repair, considering the replacement latch handle would just snap in the cold again (likely) and the underlying issue of frozen mechanism would not be addressed or investigated since it's warmed up (above 0 C) now.

It's a bad design, but the latch broke because you encountered resistance and put more force into it than it is designed to take. It should only ever take the same amount of force to unlatch, which is almost nothing. If it's hard to pull, the cable likely has water intrusion and the water in the cable is frozen. Pulling harder might work if the latch doesn't break, but then it's probably going to be stuck unlatched.

 

[Yota2R1T]

It's a bad design, but the latch broke because you encountered resistance and put more force into it than it is designed to take. It should only ever take the same amount of force to unlatch, which is almost nothing. If it's hard to pull, the cable likely has water intrusion and the water in the cable is frozen. Pulling harder might work if the latch doesn't break, but then it's probably going to be stuck unlatched.

Some big assumptions on your end there, since you don't know how much force was applied, or what force it was designed to take.

 

[Dark-Fx]

Some big assumptions on your end there, since you don't know how much force was applied, or what force it was designed to take.

I have one. When mine was frozen, it didn't want to come up like it does when it's not frozen. I didn't continue trying, and it didn't break.

So I suppose I have to make an assumption that you used too much force, because yours is broken, and mine is not.

 

[Riviandell]

I live in the Midwest, I can only hope I don't have a flat and need to access the spare when it's cold. This would be a nightmare scenario.
Having a flat access handle is asking for water to get in and freeze if there is no way out (or even if there is when it's really cold; -11F yesterday).
Accidents like this can happen, but I really hope this isn't a huge issue for all R1T models. Maybe yours was faulty/cracked, or you just happened to pull too hard or at just the right angle/force.

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