Stock R1T Windows UV/IR specs measured prior to tinting (VLT, UVR, IRR numbers)

[NachoRivian]

For anyone interested, I measured the front and rear passenger windows prior to tinting.

Front doors stock: VLT 80%, UVR 100%, IRR 77.4
Rear doors: VLT 20%, UVR 97.4, IRR 92.2.

25% Front matches up to the rear stock window well. Ended up re-tinting/darker to block out the gawkers. Hope this info helps.

Definitions:

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[KingTodd]

For the ignorant, what do these #'s mean? Do I need to do anything to block UV light? Is there a big difference between 100% and 97.4%?

 

[Blueassassin]

Are you able to test the front windshield?

 

[Blueassassin]

And sunroof?

 

[shrink]

For anyone interested, I measured the front and rear passenger windows prior to tinting.

Front doors stock: VLT 80%, UVR 100%, IRR 77.4
Rear doors: VLT 20%, UVR 97.4, IRR 92.2.


25% Front matches up to the rear stock window well. Ended up re-tinting/darker to block out the gawkers.

Hope this info helps.

This confirms what my tint installer said. Rears are just privacy glass and have minimal heat rejection properties like tint.

 

[a76marine]

Are you able to test the front windshield?

Definitely the windshield please! Trying to decide if a clear UV blocker tint is needed.

 

[rivmok]

This confirms what my tint installer said. Rears are just privacy glass and have minimal heat rejection properties like tint.

I'm not sure how this confirms it, IR is the culprit for most of the heat you feel. 92% seem pretty good.

 

[shrink]

I'm not sure how this confirms it, IR is the culprit for most of the heat you feel. 92% seem pretty good.

Good point but think the number is really Total Solar Energy Rejected and UVR is big contributor to that.

 

[NachoRivian]

For the ignorant, what do these #'s mean? Do I need to do anything to block UV light? Is there a big difference between 100% and 97.4%?

I apologize if that's confusing. I attached a reference sheet.

Overall decent stock IRR.

I have noticed a huge difference in my windshield (70% VLT with ceramic). Windshield was replaced (mis-installed?), and going back to stock sucked. However, I went to a mid ceramic 2nd time and there is a bit more low angle haze visible. More ceramic = better IRR but more haze possible.

 

[GHuff]

For anyone interested, I measured the front and rear passenger windows prior to tinting.

Front doors stock: VLT 80%, UVR 100%, IRR 77.4
Rear doors: VLT 20%, UVR 97.4, IRR 92.2.

25% Front matches up to the rear stock window well. Ended up re-tinting/darker to block out the gawkers. Hope this info helps.

Definitions:

can you do the front windshield and roof too?

 

[GHuff]

I apologize if that's confusing. I attached a reference sheet.

Overall decent stock IRR.

I have noticed a huge difference in my windshield (70% VLT with ceramic). Windshield was replaced (mis-installed?), and going back to stock sucked. However, I went to a mid ceramic 2nd time and there is a bit more low angle haze visible. More ceramic = better IRR but more haze possible.

Is the "low angle haze" you are referring to the hazy double vision and haziness of light objects at night? I am noticing that I am seeing hazy doubles of lights at night after my windshield got ceramic.

 

[mabowden]

Are you planning on still putting ceramic tint on the back windows/rear glass to increase heat rejection?

 

[connoisseurr]

Must professional equipment used to measure VLT, IRR, TSER and all that jazz, require the glass to be inserted between two lenses. I haven't seen a professional device that can attach to glass from either side.

There are devices can measure VLT reliably, but do give unreliable numbers for IRR and TSER - mostly are from Chinazon.

I'll be getting Formula One Stratos 70 on my windshield, rear passenger doors, and back glass. I think Stratos now makes 20 or 25 so that will be used for the front two doors. If that doesn't exist, I'll use Pinnacle 25 for the fronts.

My Mach-E has Suntek Evolve, and the film makes the glass pull a hazy blue/purple in the sunlight. Not the most ideal, but the IRR and TSER is great for that product.

Formula One Stratos and Pinnacle will give a more black/charcoal look.

Also, I'd avoid putting any sort of ceramic film on the roof glass. It'll pull more heat into the vehicle, as the film will absorb more heat. Also had this issue on the Mach-E - it made the glass radiate more heat, due to the film.

 

[Arky]

This confirms what my tint installer said. Rears are just privacy glass and have minimal heat rejection properties like tint.

Tint places say that but I'm pretty sure it's just because they want to sell tint.

The window blocks ~80% of visible light, some of IR and UV is going to be included in that as well, and heat energy in your car, contrary to popular belief does not come entirely from IR. Visible light, IR and UV is absorbed by each surface it contacts, so your seats, reflections to the headliner, floor, etc, all adds up to heat. If you haven't added tint to your truck, check it yourself, the rear seats run MUCH less warm than the fronts which are exposed to the clear windows and windshield. The sun emits much more energy in the visible spectrum than IR or UV, so that's really where most of the heat comes from.

For what it's worth, when I shine a UV light through my (untinted) rear window, it does show UV sensitive features (like the security stripe on a $20) much less prominently, it's clearly blocking most of the energy. From the OP's chart it looks like the windows already have a fairly high UV reject, but I never checked the front before tinting it (I can feel the heat in the front seats, not so much the rear.)

 

[JMAG]

Getting my R1T in a couple of weeks, can anyone tell me what the dimensions (from the outside of the front windshield?

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