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Here are the install photos

I'm making some minor improvements, but here are a couple more photos of the rig:

Not sure if pulling interior panels or the headliner is a much better option ?

My system (currently) is just the left and right brake light tied together. So whatever one or both of them are doing is reflected in the light. If brakes are pressed, center light is solid. If indicating, center light is flashing. If brakes pressed and also indicating, center light is solid...

I recommend against this, the spoiler is held together with plastic clips and adhesive. Disassembly = destruction.

So here's the thing: I suspect a 2-to-3 converter is the only device necessary to pull off this install. Will you have to tap wires? Yes, but you're going to need to tap for 12 volt anyway. Pull the left signal/brake from the left black wire going to the tail light, and the right turn/brake...

Got the third brake light working, but with one caveat: since there is no distinct wire controlling brake (vs signal), my center mounted light flashes if the indicator is enabled and the brakes are not pressed. I think I'm fine with this, but it's moderately irritating. Control module is...

I think the two green wires are ultra low voltage to run the diffused light bar leds.

Sure you were turning it in the correct direction? ;)

I'm partially color blind, so just wanted to make sure "gray" meant dark gray, not light gray. Presumably the pink/light gray wire is the brake light?

Okay, I presume you're talking about the black lead here on the right?

I do wonder what's actually going on here, if it's flashing to memory or something. If that's the case, I would be concerned that the device itself would eventually stop working, as some types of flash memory have limited write cycles; I.E, the device can only be re-initialized a certain number...

Sit rep: spent about 7 hours straight yesterday working on this project. Some things I can confirm: Even though you can pull a stable 13 volt from the power leads in the tow harness, you can't put any load on it in the absence of signal wire controls. Doing so will cause something on the truck...

They're completely fine, serve the purpose, and if one dies I can replace the entire set 20 times for what a single one of those more expensive ones cost. Bougie trail lights are a waste of money.

Off topic, but here's the abstract: Rhino Rack fairing mounted to crossbars, Pod lights mounted to that. Wiring harness run down windshield with KC wire hider. Quick disconnects make the entire rig easily removable. 12v supplied in frunk from the outlet there, relay mounted up behind tub...

That makes sense, I'm thinking something similar. Considering how many batteries are already in the car, it might make more sense to replace one or both of the AGM 12v batteries with LiFePo and just use those. There's already a DC-DC converter charging them from the main pack (not withstanding...

@Dark-Fx did you consider using the 12v supplied to the air compressor in the bed instead of going all the way to the gear tunnel?

I'm in Texas, got them yesterday.

New install, work great!

...just to give some of you frugal folks an idea about what you can do with a little elbow grease and about $200. Rhino Rack fairing mounted to crossbars, Pod lights mounted to that. Wiring harness run down windshield with KC wire hider. Quick disconnects make the entire rig easily removable...