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It shouldn't have to be said but this is the difference between adaptive cruise control and the different levels of "autonomous driving". Cruise control generally (as well as adaptive cruise control) are meant to be used when cruising, at speed and not in stop/go traffic....that's why it...

Same! Which leads me to believe it’s a vehicle/software issue and not an issue with the charger(s) or adapters.

My tesla wall charger (with adapter) has recently been doing the exact same thing.

Yeah, but there’s a tipping point where “inconvenient” means most people won’t use it because of the setup or the complete disregard for real life (if phone dies or is lost/destroyed. Notably, the simpler solution if just adding a PIN solves both of these issues even if it isn’t “as secure”

The update notes say you can access a time-based passcode on your phone as a backup.....which entirely disregards the point that if you aren't using your phone, it's likely because its lost or dead

It's "meh" excepting potential bug fixes and the new ability to manually precondition for fast charging (that's a good, long awaited item). They overthought the multi-factor drive to the point where the overwhelming majority of people probably won't bother....they should have just added a...

same

Went overboard with the MFA. It will be overly tedious and annoying for most. They should have just done a PIN to drive like Tesla… Nice to add manual battery preconditioning

You won’t want to hear this but save yourself the headache and just spend the $100 to buy a compatible after-market charging pad that will lay over the existing pad and plug into the battery lightning ports inside the center console…

There is an issue with your truck or connection. The last update shows 100% deployed on the software tracker I saw. Generally speaking, try a reset when something is not right or as expected …you are driving a big computer which occasionally gets bogged down and needs to restart….

Add a widget to the driver screen that has the clock and temperature rather than hiding that info at the far end of the main screen.

Same, although if the R3X came sooner, I’d be tempted to get one and keep the R1T….

Same

Which Lucid starts at around $45k?

Changed my vote to "yes" (reconsidering) but only because I can't see being ready to part with my awesome Quad R1T anytime soon. Rivian would probably do well to open up a configurator soon to drum up more excitement with regard to available options even if pricing is expressly tentative still.

Correct. It works out to about the same the way you put it (buy out lease approximately immediately or let the lease play out and buy at the end). The difference, as you also said is whether OP would be better off using the cash to invest or do something else for now and then decide in 36...

It’s a joke and will never make it to market. The price assumes a 7500 tax credit which may or may not even exist at that point. Notice how there aren’t even any estimate costs of all the “upgrade options”. The R2 will end up costing less….and be very substantially better built.

It does not seem reasonable that you would leave your new truck at the shop solely for an Apple Music fix especially when they aren’t sure what the issue is or how to fix it. Just subscribe to Spotify (even if temporarily) and enjoy your truck

It’s both. Using conserve mode (incorrectly) or just the front motors will wear the front tires quicker….but it depends how you drive. If you are not fast accelerating regularly, it provident matter much. Also, as for ride height, your alignment is typically based upon the normal (mid)...

you have to be at a constant speed above 55 for approximately 45 seconds or more