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I don’t think so. I believe the entire combo meter panel must be replaced, which does mean cutting off power at road.

So, main panel upgrade then? Frankly, it is the only even semi-safe and sane solution I can think of. And you’ll get your 60A EV charger out of it. And a hot tub that is properly protected. A 250A 20/40 panel sounds like it’ll work fine. It would also eliminate that other outdoor sub panel. And...

Ah geez, I didn’t even notice that. The sticker beside that switch specifically says that it isn’t an over current protection device. Yeah, you need a GFCI breaker for that hot tub pronto. I mean, that’s an actual electrocution hazard.

Somewhere on that main panel there should be a label that indicates what the load rating is for the panel board. Maybe on the inside the cover that you took off to show us the glowing nut. Let's say it is 200A. Now, since your panel board isn't set up with a single main breaker, and instead has...

Things I don’t like about the setup. We don’t know the service amperage nor the buss bar amperage, but it almost certainly isnt 375 amps. So whoever installed that should be shot. That is basic, basic, basic. You have to have breaker protection that protects the buss bar capacity. Second...

Which would mean the hot tub is not protected by a breaker. Which is actually the least of your worries. That red glowing connection has been deteriorating for a while which is why it is now glowing, there is too much resistance there. Maybe at some point in the past it wasn’t tightened...

Oops, I didn't even notice that a) this was your outside box (I had asked to see a picture of it before!) and b) those breakers on the left were OFF (but to be fair no one else is noticing much either ?). So is this box's feed connected to one of those 125 amp breakers in the adjacent box...

Everyone calm down and stop scaring the OP. Yes, there are code violations, but that doesn't mean it is overloaded. Could you pull the safety panels off the two exterior panels and give us pictures of that? BTW, no one seems to have noticed that in the small panel that has four double pole...

I wouldn’t worry about it, just plug in and charge. EVSEs and car chargers have circuitry to detect weird electrical problems and will simply not charge if it detects anything squirrelly.

Yeah, in that case definitely don’t buy the Rivian EVSE, it isn’t the best at the price. The charge cable is bulky, LED too bright, etc. Rivian doesn’t want people to use adapters because their vehicle charging user interface is dodgy. It has a bad habit of resetting charging amps to the...

When you use an EVSE (like a Chargepoint ) you don’t have to set anything in the Rivian vehicle menu. The EVSE communicates with the vehicle telling the vehicle the maximum amps it can draw. Same with the Rivian portable charger (which is also an EVSE).

Yep you have options. The post above mine suggested buying a 6-50 to 14-50 dogbone adapter and using the Rivian portable charger. That’ll work fine and is the cheapest solution. The portable charger will charge at max. 32A. Alternatively, buy an EVSE with a 6-50 plug and you’ll be able to...

Campsites will have a TT-30 receptacle which is different from OPs but the power is the same as it is a 120V/30A receptacle. Bigger campsites will have nema 14-50 receptacles but I guess yours did not. And yes, a TT-30 is much better to charge from than the 120V/12A.

Yes, it’ll work. 240V is fine, that’s a normal voltage for car charging. Do reduce amperage to 24A and double check it is at the value before charging since the Rivian currently has a bad habit of resetting it back to 32A whenever you change other charge settings.

That’s low if you are charging at 40A. You can view the kW charge rate in your app when charging. It should read 9 or 10 kW depending on how it rounds the number.

$500 for the Rivian charger is a good price. I got it at $500 too. Cons against it is that it has a really bright green LED light, but if is in an enclosed garage, that doesn’t matter. Also some people have found it comes with a weird default setting that needs a WiFi connection for Rivian...

Exactly. This “subtlety” of the electrical code trips up people the most when installing EVSEs. Other issues include using Romex in exposed or even outdoor areas, using MC cable in wet areas, or not paying attention to total bends when building PVC conduit. There is lots of tradecraft and...

Thanks for the update. I did a test today on a 30A receptacle with the RIvian portable charger. First thing I did was to set amperage in the car to 24A. Then I turned off the daily schedule so that I could charge right away. And right then the software reset the amps back to 48A. So the RIvian...

GFCI tripping is indeed usually caused by an older GFCI that just can’t handle 12A. Swapping out the GFCI usually fixes it. I'm going to try charging tomorrow using the portable Rivian charger with some adapters in various lower amp receptacles and see what happens…

Oh wow, that is not cool on Rivian's part. The Ford Lighting also has badly designed charging software. Do you know if that Rivian bug got fixed, or do we still have that behavior in our vehicles? If so, that could be the problem with the 6-20 receptacle - the car is trying to reset to draw 32A...