I did some reading and it turns out that induction motors are not fantastic for low rpm high torque scenarios compared to permanent magnet and Rivian didn’t want that.
Does the tri not have a disengagement mode for Eco mode? As in, the front motor is an induction motor and the rears are permanent magnet? Not sure why the dual motors don’t have that as it would solve all these clutch nonsense issues.
800v charging would be significant in the end. It’s not just faster charging - it’s faster charging with much cooler temperatures (due to lower amperage) which means you can optimize a million other things related to the cooling system, AC, pack design, etc. and…let’s be honest, the charging...
Lol I'm not here to just complain. Rivian needs to do some serious work tearing down this truck even further. They have done a great job already doing that, but its still way too overbuilt.. The reason I'm "complaining" as you say is because I care very deeply about the success of this...
Nowhere in this comment did it have anything to do with Tesla. I love Rivian. And I’ve had a deposit on a R1 since the beginning but stopped to wait it out. Rivian needs to start cutting out needlessly complicated parts that add cost and complexity and they need to do it much faster than they...
What an absolutely bloated expensive and overly complicated part. Same with the charge port door. GET RID OF THESE RIVIAN! Insane. They add unnecessary complication and cost.
This is still not ideal for battery health. It’s best to do many small charges, such as 55-70 percent, daily. Deep discharges and recharges have multiple studies confirming this will hurt longevity. This is why Tesla’s manuals say to alway plug in every night. If you want that battery to last 15...
Well, technically if all things were equal, the 20 inch wheels would give the best range. The physics of the smaller wheel will provide the best efficiency. But it’s the tires Rivian chooses that change their EPA rating. If it was up to me, I’d be getting a super light weight 20 inch wheel and a...
This is also my experience with Tesla, and I don’t think it is a blocking of signal issue, it is a proximity issue, which is a good thing. You only want it to unlock when the device is as close as possible. On my model 3, the PAOK works EVERY time, but it must be close enough. It will open if...
I doubt it would be plug and play. Would require splicing of wires and such, which I have no problem doing to upgrade a good stereo. But I am worried about how integrated the amplifier is with the software and making sure it’s OFF when not in use, etc.
Ok, agree. But the question is - can we upgrade the amplifier? And if so, will this introduce phantom drain? I wonder how integrated the amp is with the software and modules on the car and if upgrading is possible at all.