R1S towing setup - need help working with poor hitch design.

[Dave S]

I'm expanding on my earlier post about the hitch, as I've discovered other issues, and hoping folks here can share their setups.

Issue 1)
I do a fair amount of towing, but travel through areas where they'll steal anything not bolted down. So I either have to remove the hitch when not in use, or use a hitch lock.

The way the elbow on the hitch pin is angled, getting the cotter pin on and off is a pain...there's only one angle and it aims the cotter pin right up torwards the bottom of the bumper, making it a bit awkward to get on and off. And there's not a lot of room between that and the mounts for tow chains, so there's probably not a lot of room for receiver pin locks that have big locking heads on them.

Has anyone found receiver pin locks that fit well?

Issue 2)
I'm towing a utility trailer that'll come to 6,000 pounds or so when loaded and I've got heavy safety chains on it, as well as trailer brakes. The tiny mounts they have on the hitch for safety chains is pathetic. I can't even get the chains on, let alone the emergency rip cord for the trailer breaks.

What do you all use for towing setups that works??

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[Joe Hoffman]

I agree that the design and space around the hitch assembly is poorly thought out.

The biggest problem I have is the limited space between the ball and the bumper. I am afraid I’m going to damage the bumper when when mounting the trailer to the ball.

I do have a lock that works well. It has a lock key that goes on the end of the retainer pin not a clip. I don’t have a good answer for the safety chains, yes, they are tight and difficult to get in there.

 

[Dark-Fx]

If you're not interested in changing out the safety chains, you could get D-Rings to install onto the receiver where you're hooking the chains on currently.

 

[moosehead]

Typical Class IV hitch pins are too short for the Rivian, need to use Class V versions. Rivian hitch receiver outside dimension is 3 3/16” wide.

This 5/8” diameter locking hitchpin works well and has a rubber cover that keeps the gunk out of the lock.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0941WDD9W/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Prior thread:

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/locking-hitchpin-that-fits-rivian.10280/

^ The D-rings are a great idea for safety chains, either that or you definitely need to swap out for thinner hooks.

 

[Captain JB]

Keep the info coming as I plan to tow and off road trailer soon. thx for your time. JB

 

[Dcavalheiro]

I am using a hitch class V from Vevor and a pin with lock in T that has some extra room. I will send the link of them as I don't have my car to take a picture for the rest of the week

 

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

It's flipped around in this picture and ultimately I wound up returning it for reasons unrelated to the lock, but I thought this one fit nicely:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001AVSIOI/

Will probably buy another one at some point.

 

[Noah Arc]

I tow frequently
Your issues are well known....
You should buy a locking pin and install shackles to connect your safety chains and emergency break

 

[riviblue]

Like Noah Arc said, there is poor space planning around the hitch especially if you want to use a locking pin (a must in many places) and standard heavy duty safety chain hooks, such as when pulling a camper trailer. I made it even worse by adding a reverse trailer camera plug on a new custom cover where the 12V charging wires are lodged (I had an existing dual trailer wired camera setup so this looked like a good place to add it without drilling into any permanent panel and it is then easy to route the cable inside the trunk and fwd to the cockpit).
The solution is to use two 3/4 shackles and you are good to go.

photos below (just for fitting purposes, if I were on a trip, I would add washers to prevent noise and zip tie the shackle pins to avoid accidental unscrewing)

hope this helps those scratching their heads...

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