Rooftop tent heating/ventilation

[BigSkies]

I will second, third, fourth, and eighth the recommendation for a good sleeping bag instead of trying to come up with an HVAC solution. You can add an electric blanket if you want to get fancy.

Tents are not designed to be climate conditioned. Everything you do to add heat is fighting against the need to get moisture out. Everything you do to get moisture out is fighting against the desire to keep heat in.

The tents designed for anything like this are double-wall mountaineering tents, or big specialized canvas tents. I'm not aware of these existing in the rooftop tent world.

For reference, here's a picture of my perfectly warm winter camping setup.

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[zgStevieD]

@HighVoltOverland did this write up for wiring his GFC brake light. I haven't done mine yet, but seems pretty straight forward.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-blocking-brake-lights-chmsl.5014/post-640479

 

[JacobAZ]

I will second, third, fourth, and eighth the recommendation for a good sleeping bag instead of trying to come up with an HVAC solution. You can add an electric blanket if you want to get fancy.

Tents are not designed to be climate conditioned. Everything you do to add heat is fighting against the need to get moisture out. Everything you do to get moisture out is fighting against the desire to keep heat in.

The tents designed for anything like this are double-wall mountaineering tents, or big specialized canvas tents. I'm not aware of these existing in the rooftop tent world.

For reference, here's a picture of my perfectly warm winter camping setup.

IKamper makes an insulated liner for the skycamp mini RTT making it similar to a mountaineering tent. I don't own the liner. Without the liner we have been comfortable down to about 30 degrees. Lower than that it gets cold even with a good sleeping bag and wearing my hoodie. But the definition of cold is also a personal thing. There are reviews on the web for the skycamper with the liner. They are positive for keeping it warmer at much lower temperatures.

 

[R1Thor]

I will second, third, fourth, and eighth the recommendation for a good sleeping bag instead of trying to come up with an HVAC solution. You can add an electric blanket if you want to get fancy.

Tents are not designed to be climate conditioned. Everything you do to add heat is fighting against the need to get moisture out. Everything you do to get moisture out is fighting against the desire to keep heat in.

The tents designed for anything like this are double-wall mountaineering tents, or big specialized canvas tents. I'm not aware of these existing in the rooftop tent world.

For reference, here's a picture of my perfectly warm winter camping setup.

Another datapoint that contradicts yours: Cinch tent also makes an insulated liner, which works great for cold weather camping.

And as I'd mentioned, I use an Ecoflow Wave2, which is incredibly great at pulling moisture from the air in addition to heating and cooling.

So, yes, you're not wrong in your approach, but you're confidently incorrect insofar as suggesting that
1- there aren't thermal lining solutions for RTT and
2- insisting that 'everything you do' is fighting against the need to get moisture out.

Not looking to start a fight; just providing data.

 

[BigSkies]

@HighVoltOverland did this write up for wiring his GFC brake light. I haven't done mine yet, but seems pretty straight forward.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-blocking-brake-lights-chmsl.5014/post-640479

I think it's easier than that now, where you can plug into the trailer hitch. There were some software limitations on using the trailer hitch back then (I forget the details) that I don't believe apply any longer.

It's just kind of a PITA to cleanly get the wires from the bed to the trailer plug. It's a project that can probably be done in an afternoon. I just have a shortage of free afternoons right now.

 

[R1Thor]

I think it's easier than that now, where you can plug into the trailer hitch. There were some software limitations on using the trailer hitch back then (I forget the details) that I don't believe apply any longer.

It's just kind of a PITA to cleanly get the wires from the bed to the trailer plug. It's a project that can probably be done in an afternoon. I just have a shortage of free afternoons right now.

It's really not that hard.
Took me maybe 6 minutes.

The hardest part is just getting it aligned so you can pull it through. Having a grabber or fishing line helps immensely. If you're trying to thread that needle without tools, then you're going to have a bad time.

The only other thing I highly recommend is finding a way to hold the spring-tensioned panel up, just so it doesn't keep flopping down and into your way.

 

[BigSkies]

Another datapoint that contradicts yours: Cinch tent also makes an insulated liner, which works great for cold weather camping.

And as I'd mentioned, I use an Ecoflow Wave2, which is incredibly great at pulling moisture from the air in addition to heating and cooling.

So, yes, you're not wrong in your approach, but you're confidently incorrect insofar as suggesting that
1- there aren't thermal lining solutions for RTT and
2- insisting that 'everything you do' is fighting against the need to get moisture out.

Not looking to start a fight; just providing data.

It's a good datapoint, and something that falls into a category of quality discussion instead of an "I'm right, you're wrong" type argument. There's personal preference going on.

There are people that do HVAC things and add insulation. SuperPacific even sells an add-on heater with their camper. And people are happy with these solutions.

I personally think a lot of people looking at these expensive solutions are spending a lot of money for marginal benefit.

Here's how I think about it:

-Insulation doesn't generate heat, it holds it in. Your body is that heat source absent another heater. Your body does not produce enough heat to meaningfully warm a tent. So why not use insulation to trap heat against your body anyways? This is what clothing and sleeping bags do.

-Any insulation on a tent doing its job will create a condensation problem. Particularly in cold weather. The basic design of a tent requires a flow of fresh air to prevent condensation. Early GoFast campers had severe condensation problems even without insulation and heating. Newer ones have design features that mitigate this with better airflow and improved headliners. It would be very easy to re-engineer your way back into condensation problems.

-Anything you do to add heat to the tent will increase condensation problems, meaning you need to ventilate more heat out. While you can still get a warmer tent, it's a lot of energy for not a huge comfort gain.

-Carbon monoxide poisoning is a thing. It can be avoided by being smart. Just about everyone it has happened to thought they were being smart. It obviously can be avoided, but I think all conversations around tent HVAC should call it out as something to take seriously.

-The quality of warm sleeping options has increased a lot over the last few years. Many of these tents & campers have camping quilts designed to fit them that insulate really well. I've been looking at the Auronaut HoverQuilt for the GoFast. The menu of options for keeping warmth close to your body has never been higher.

I just come to the conclusion that it's a lot of money solving a problem that can be dealt with for much cheaper. I've also been called a cheap-ass, so factor that into your assessment of my conclusions.

 

[zgStevieD]

It's really not that hard.
Took me maybe 6 minutes.

The hardest part is just getting it aligned so you can pull it through. Having a grabber or fishing line helps immensely. If you're trying to thread that needle without tools, then you're going to have a bad time.

The only other thing I highly recommend is finding a way to hold the spring-tensioned panel up, just so it doesn't keep flopping down and into your way.

First, apologies to the OP for AGAIN jumping on the high jacking of your thread!

Do either of you have additional info on this method? (link to write up, etc)
Is it literally a plug in the trailer connection point? If so, I'm not sure I'd want that as a permanent solution. TIA

 

[SwaziCAR]

We have a campground just outside of Yellowstone that has 50A charging for several days. Grand Tetons is harder - the powered spots seem booked, but there are a few sites in reserve that open 8/30, so we will be in the cue right when it opens. There is a 50KW charger in Jackson - hopefully not crowded this time of year. There is also a RAN fast charger at Yellowstone’s north entrance. I am plotting all the charging options on the Map!

I guess you'll arrive from the north, east, or south, but there are a few fast chargers west of Yellowstone, in Driggs, Ashton, and Island Park (also farther south of those three, in Idaho Falls). I've used all of them during the past few years (but not yet this year).

FWIW, I've spent more than 100 nights backpacking in Yellowstone, including in September and October. It would never cross my mind to put an artificial heat source in a tent. That said, you may find that the "sleeping" isn't the issue; rather, it's early darkness and the cold that comes with it. If it's cold out, it's those hours before going into the tent that can get trying. If you think you'd use it back home, you might consider once of those propane faux fireplaces to keep a smile on your wife's face.

 

[R1Thor]

First, apologies to the OP for AGAIN jumping on the high jacking of your thread!

Do either of you have additional info on this method? (link to write up, etc)
Is it literally a plug in the trailer connection point? If so, I'm not sure I'd want that as a permanent solution. TIA

Yes, it just runs down through the tailgate and then there's a small cap next to the hitch you pass through and simply plug into your trailer power connector.

I don't think it was ever meant to be 'permanent.' Most people don't install over-bed accessories and leave them there. My RTT is removed and stored when I'm not using it, so I unplug the cable. I did create my own TBL, and intentionally added a connector in-line the TBL cable, so I could leave the cable (I still unplug it from the hitch power, mind you, so the truck doesn't continue to think I have an accessory connected), but then leave it under the hitch cover.

If you need more info (photos?), just send me a DM or start a new thread so we don't keep threadjacking.

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