SoonishEV TubThumper (Rivian R1T Subwoofer Upgrade) & TopoCharge Gen2 Wireless Phone Charger Upgraded

[ksumnole]

Which amp are you using for the 3v3? The Kicker 46CXA8001 seems like a good match with the same dimensions as the 4001 - only thing is that it would require 4AWG and 80A fuse instead of the 8AWG and 40A fuse.

@Sojhinn would it be possible to have another kit option with the thicker wires if/when you can confirm that that JL Audio 8W3v3-4 would work with your enclosure? Or at least an option with only the signal adapter wire if providing a full other set is too much trouble?

I'm using the JL Audio JD250 paired with 8AWG and 30A fuse (8W3v3-4 uses 250W RMS). No issues for the past 6 months. Sounds great! I'm interested in just the box itself (with the build-in sub connection). Is that something you could offer as an option?

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[ksumnole]

Sorry if I missed this, haven't had time to watch full video. How does the box mount to the chassis? Thanks

 

[Sojhinn]

Which amp are you using for the 3v3? I like the idea of more power than the 1v3 but I assume you are running something bigger than the Kicker 46CXA4001 recommended for the 1v3?

Which amp are you using for the 3v3? The Kicker 46CXA8001 seems like a good match with the same dimensions as the 4001 - only thing is that it would require 4AWG and 80A fuse instead of the 8AWG and 40A fuse.

@Sojhinn would it be possible to have another kit option with the thicker wires if/when you can confirm that that JL Audio 8W3v3-4 would work with your enclosure? Or at least an option with only the signal adapter wire if providing a full other set is too much trouble?

We probably won't offer multiple wiring kits. Cost wise it would make sense for us to keep it simple, and if people want to modify then can purchase their own things.

As for the 8W3v3-4, should work fine. Sealed box is approximately the recommended size. So I see no issues.

 

[Sojhinn]

Sorry if I missed this, haven't had time to watch full video. How does the box mount to the chassis? Thanks

Box sits nicely inside the cavity with no mounts needed. You can always bend a piece of aluminum if you want to take it above and beyond.

 

[ksumnole]

Might be worth it to offer maybe just a box by itself, I know there’s quite a lot of folks out here who have upgraded their system with different ways.

 

[Sojhinn]

Might be worth it to offer maybe just a box by itself, I know there’s quite a lot of folks out here who have upgraded their system with different ways.

Yes, those that have modified their systems already, are the ones willing to go the extra mile to fiddle. This isn't for those people, these are for those people who want to simplify the process as much as possible and to be told what to do.

Our margins are small on this thing. If we decide to complicate things that will make the cost for every box more expensive. On top of that the enclosure and wiring are designed around a specific amperage and a specific size. It will handle 80% of the amps and subs at the 8" level.

If people really want to go that far to modify the package we are offering.... please just purchase the package we have in place, and modify what you need. You will still need our high level speaker adapter and you will still need a fuse holder. At that point you already have half our wiring set. So anyone wanting to modify will need to procure a new power wire, ground wire, and a new fuse.

Look at the cost of most line level adapters and fuse holders. You would probably spend more money than you could save by removing it from our package.

I understand the want and desire of getting what specific people want, but its really not possible at a cost effective level. As much as I would love to take care of everyone, at some point we have to say we really can't.

Side note: Take a look at custom enclosures for most vehicles.... they are more than this entire kit.

 

[Shmoe]

Note: We have stopped including the charging pucks as we now support 25 watt charging through Apple Magsafe pucks or PixelSnap pucks. I HAVE LOTS to say about this btw if people want to know more.

Would an older topocharge pad be capable of the 25w puck swap?

 

[Sojhinn]

Would an older topocharge pad be capable of the 25w puck swap?

Yup components are the same. May need an adapter for the new pucks though.

 

[Shmoe]

Yup components are the same. May need an adapter for the new pucks though.

Sweet.. are they selling adapters?

 

[Sojhinn]

Sweet.. are they selling adapters?

Sure we can. Just email us at [email protected] . Typically shipping and selling the adapters are around $12.00... so for a little more you get a much better setup.

 

[Slothmonkey]

I'm using the JL Audio JD250 paired with 8AWG and 30A fuse (8W3v3-4 uses 250W RMS). No issues for the past 6 months. Sounds great! I'm interested in just the box itself (with the build-in sub connection). Is that something you could offer as an option?

Does your L Audio JD250 power off with no signal like the recommended Kicker amp?

 

[ksumnole]

Does your L Audio JD250 power off with no signal like the recommended Kicker amp?

Yes it does.

 

[Slothmonkey]

Yes it does.

Awesome, thanks for confirming!

 

[ksumnole]

Awesome, thanks for confirming!

You should check out the post I wrote about my upgrade to see how I fit the amp. It does not fit like the other slimmer amps behind the under seat storage.

 

[iamnid]

I installed the newest, injection molded, topocharge last night, having upgraded from the 3d printed one.

Here are my thoughts:

I used two pixel snap pucks. If I was to do it again, I'd probably use the magsafe pucks as I don't like how these fit. They stick up and hold the charging mat up a bit, preventing it from lying flat on the sides. It still looks good but I think it would be better with the magsafe pucks which are slimmer -- overall, not a big deal.

I had a heck of a time getting the pucks into the base because of how the cord comes out. It requires you to seriously flex/bend the cord right where it exits the puck. I ended up using a dremel to extend and widen the cutout for the wire next to the circle. This made it easier to get the cord to sit flat when the pucks were installed. Thanks to the video, I also purchased double sided tape to hold the pucks in place (this should be included in the kit, in my opinion)

There seems to be MUCH more room to fit all the cables etc under here vs. the 3D printed one but that might be due to the cable length of the pucks used. There was very little excess cord once it was routed through the guides under the mold. It was much easier to snap into place as a result and it fits better than the old one.

The thicker mat definitely feels more premium but the topographical print is much more faint and less noticeable.

Overall, it's a big improvement but I wish I had used different pucks. Also, once you price in the $80 for the pixel snap or magsafe pucks, this isn't very cheap!

Thanks again.

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