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Sojhinn

Sojhinn

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I installed the newest, injection molded, topocharge last night, having upgraded from the 3d printed one.

Here are my thoughts:

I used two pixel snap pucks. If I was to do it again, I'd probably use the magsafe pucks as I don't like how these fit. They stick up and hold the charging mat up a bit, preventing it from lying flat on the sides. It still looks good but I think it would be better with the magsafe pucks which are slimmer -- overall, not a big deal.

I had a heck of a time getting the pucks into the base because of how the cord comes out. It requires you to seriously flex/bend the cord right where it exits the puck. I ended up using a dremel to extend and widen the cutout for the wire next to the circle. This made it easier to get the cord to sit flat when the pucks were installed. Thanks to the video, I also purchased double sided tape to hold the pucks in place (this should be included in the kit, in my opinion)

There seems to be MUCH more room to fit all the cables etc under here vs. the 3D printed one but that might be due to the cable length of the pucks used. There was very little excess cord once it was routed through the guides under the mold. It was much easier to snap into place as a result and it fits better than the old one.

The thicker mat definitely feels more premium but the topographical print is much more faint and less noticeable.

Overall, it's a big improvement but I wish I had used different pucks. Also, once you price in the $80 for the pixel snap or magsafe pucks, this isn't very cheap!

Thanks again.
We are working on sourcing some charging pucks, that fit very nicely in the same area. I'm in the middle of testing them now. But so many people have asked about using the "official" pucks we figured in the long run its just better to support official charging pucks. As for the wire issues, I think I do highlight that in the install, and you can slide it back as shown.

The mat will sit flat after a couple heat cycles in the vehicle. Take a look at it in a couple of days and it will be perfectly flush. (I use both chargers)
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We are working on sourcing some charging pucks, that fit very nicely in the same area. I'm in the middle of testing them now. But so many people have asked about using the "official" pucks we figured in the long run its just better to support official charging pucks. As for the wire issues, I think I do highlight that in the install, and you can slide it back as shown.

The mat will sit flat after a couple heat cycles in the vehicle. Take a look at it in a couple of days and it will be perfectly flush. (I use both chargers)
Has the mat been made thicker? or is it just manufacturing variance?
 
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We are working on sourcing some charging pucks, that fit very nicely in the same area. I'm in the middle of testing them now. But so many people have asked about using the "official" pucks we figured in the long run its just better to support official charging pucks. As for the wire issues, I think I do highlight that in the install, and you can slide it back as shown.

The mat will sit flat after a couple heat cycles in the vehicle. Take a look at it in a couple of days and it will be perfectly flush. (I use both chargers)
Good to hear about the mat laying flat over time.

I just watched the video again -- my wire where it comes out of the puck did not, in any way, slide in as easily as shown in your video. It was a real struggle, to the point where I was pretty sure I was going to wreck the wire. On mine, it seemed like I was asking the wire to do an immediate 90 degree turn the moment it came out of the puck to go behind the mount. I lengthened the channel with a dremel so it could continue straight for a bit before the bend.

One last, quick, question: My original kit came with 2 little feet that were screwed on at the back. Your new video doesn't use those. Are they no longer necessary? I still used them.

Thanks.
 
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Good to hear about the mat laying flat over time.

I just watched the video again -- my wire where it comes out of the puck did not, in any way, slide in as easily as shown in your video. It was a real struggle, to the point where I was pretty sure I was going to wreck the wire. On mine, it seemed like I was asking the wire to do an immediate 90 degree turn the moment it came out of the puck to go behind the mount. I lengthened the channel with a dremel so it could continue straight for a bit before the bend.
Got it. Will make a note.
 

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Sweet. Maybe early? Car is currently half apart lol.
 

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The sub kit is a good deal for people wanting an almost turnkey solution. My only concern is putting more strain on that weak ass battery Rivian supplies by adding more load to it.
I was doing some tests today by cranking up my subwoofer (NVX vadm1 amp), and monitoring the 12v voltage from the RIDE screen. There didn't seem to be any noticable sag in voltage as it hovered between 13.51 and 13.55.

Which honestly makes a good amount of sense since it's only 200watts absolute max, but at millisecond-ish intervals.

TLDR; im not worried.... Yet.
 

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Lube the 12v wire through the grommet. Lube it a lot.
This is starting to sound like a private conversation... jk.

Speaking of power draw from 12V, and sorry for detour, are there any similar concerns with ditch lights like the ones you sell?
 
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This is starting to sound like a private conversation... jk.

Speaking of power draw from 12V, and sorry for detour, are there any similar concerns with ditch lights like the ones you sell?
I’m not worried. I’ve seen some people run a lot of lights.
 

Jonjon09

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What kind of lights is that connector going to that was removed in the gen1 video? And any idea what the nut size if for the middle thread that is unused on the 12V battery for those wanting to keep the existing connectors?

Edit 11/19/25: Nut size is M8-1.25 - Thank you to user EVerywhere for pointing that out on another thread.
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