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We've had no issues and we're rather tall, 6'2 and 5'9 The 'trick' to easy leveling and also a higher counter height is the raise up the air suspension first to high or higest, and then hit Level, so it's settling down instead of trying to pump itself up.

Indeed, I expect the buzz around Rivian's new offering will simply land more sales for Thunderbolt :p

Well...hunh. You sir have a point, yet that seems to be in contrast to everything I've heard 'verbally' about the new drivetrains.

"Conserve" is not likely to be a thing for the Tri-Motor nor the new Quad, just like the DM is today. Just start up in all-purpose mode with the ride height set to auto and enjoy, your range will be great and you can stomp on the accelerator to pass at any time and not simply light up your front...

By my math fwiw, it's basically 400w of power when all the computers are humming (~1 MPH drain, or 6.5%/day (R1T PDM Max), you can force this by turning on the power outlets) OTOH, a normal quiet day is more like 1%, which translates to ~60w of draw. It's not really continuous of course as...

Just testing this right now actually, buckled one of the back seats this morning, parked at the office, truck has been happily sleeping the past 1.5 hours no problem.

This all seems pretty easy to try out, at home feeding through a power meter for testing to see if this is really a positive worth the effort or not, or when camping feeding from our big camp battery (which itself could be solar charged instead of from the vehicle, or just use a solar battery...

I suspect, but have no data to back up, that the SOC loss is primarily from the computer systems running instead of being asleep, not from the power actually needed to top up the 12v system. Need more data to know...

I can already imagine the hack...12v battery tender fed by a good sized Li battery that automatically recharges off the vehicle when it's actually on, therefore allowing the truck to really have a restful and efficient sleep for once.

If you're serious there are horn upgrade kits and manual guides out there, just search the forums, it's not much of a challenge to DIY.

I would suggest RAN pricing is going to be at least roughly on par with membership SC pricing, sometimes better sometimes worse, but doubtful to ever be off by enough to add up to more than a cup of coffee...Just route optimally and enjoy the road trip!

It reports data on the vehicle's state even when not driving, every sleep period, every time it wakes, beginning and end SOCs, etc etc. If it's never sleeping it will show that clearly.

Sign up for Electrafi to get solid data on where your electrons are going: https://www.electrafi.com/index.php

Hey now, that's my wheel!!

Latest tech, it's called Mr. Fusion, maybe you've heard of it... A few bananas and a 6 pack of beer is good for ~150 miles, that's why food prices have been going up so much.

Yeah the point here is apples to apples between the stock AT setup and switching to light forged rims, therefore it will indeed be exactly the same tires. 20" rims with all-season or even stickier tires in the 'smaller' OEM diameter setup would certainly perform better and kinda be interesting...

The screen shot is from the Dragy app, which goes with the Dragy GPS based race timer, nifty little tool for stuff like this. I tried both Soft and also Low, but both options didn't deliver as good results as Firm/Lowest (and I agree reducing weight transfer is probably the optimal idea with...

<- can see there in my profile pic, 20" AT Black.

Got a very lightweight set of Atomic 20" wheels coming soon so needed some baseline data for comparison... With the AT tires I was traction limited up to ~40MPH, then acceleration tapered off rapidly to around 60MPH, and then pretty consistent acceleration from there to maybe a second before...