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Unfortunately this wasn’t the final update. I picked up the car last Tuesday and all seemed fine. As I was planning a weekend road trip (250 miles each way), the next day I drove to the closest fast charger to try out DC charging beforehand. It was a 150kW EA station that delivered about 60-70kW...

Another approach would be to use the camp speaker to charge your phone - and it can be a night light.

I've had a similar problem with the mobile charger showing green but the car seems to start charging, front light bar pulses green 2-3 times, then the charger clicks and stays green while the car turns red. I've plugged and unplugged from both ends, tried a 120v outlet in addition to the 240v...

they needed to open doors and frunk/tailgate to do the wrap, but midway through the work they arrived one morning and found the car bricked and unresponsive so they jumped it from the rear cables. They had to do so with another Rivian in the past, but said mine looked different = capacitor...

Final update - I hope! I got a call around noon today that my car was ready. Used some Lyft credits they sent me to get to Chelsea, and drove it home. It was still at 61% charge when I picked it up. The 12v didn’t need to be replaced. The problem was described on the invoice as below, and...

My understanding is The rear tow area cables jump the battery, the second battery (which is now being replaced with a capacitor) needed to be jumped from inside the frunk area.

Further update which contradicts several things in the last update: 1) Because my car was initially logged in as a mobile service visit, it was accidentally overlooked and didn’t actually get into the queue of cars being worked on until late today. 2) This change was prompted by my calling...

Update: Wednesday afternoon the mobile service tech arrived at the detailer and spent at least an hour on the car. I’ve been told he had trouble waking up both sides of the car, and he eventually decided it needs to go to the Chelsea Service Center. They got it in neutral and pushed it outside...

I looked at the spec sheets. GB40 is 24Wh, GB50 is 35Wh, if that helps. Someone above mentioned that Service had told them to jump for 15-30 min, so that makes me feel I should get the bigger one.

This reminds me that a friend previously recommended the Noco Boost chargers. Do you think the GB40 is powerful enough to charge the R1S, or do I need to go for the GB50? https://no.co/products/power/boost

Sounds like I need to have a boost battery on hand - though not in the car? Any recommendations for good boosters? I never needed one for my Teslas.

Update: I called again and now have a mobile service appointment scheduled for at the detailer this afternoon. But to confirm it I had to agree to a service cost estimate of over $1000 - nearly $500 for the battery and 4 hours of service at $200/hour. His explanation over the phone was because...

Thanks, but they did jump start the 12v several times. That’s how they discovered the capacitor. But even once the car has come back to life, it is not fully there. It won’t drive, it won’t take a charge, and he said while it released the rear hatch, the hatch wouldn’t lift and open. Perhaps the...

My new R1S (VIN 117XX, not sure when made but Monroney sticker and Certificate of Origin dated 6/2/23) has the 12v battery + capacitor setup. I learned this yesterday morning when I got a call from the detailer who is wrapping the car with PPF. The car was unresponsive so he jump-started it and...

My R1S has 500 miles on it and already has been hit by 12v battery problems. Last Wednesday I left it at a detail shop to get wrapped in Xpel film, and the guy called me this morning to say that they're nearly done but that the car shut down on them so they had to jump the 12v - which only...

thank you!

I had a Model S from 2013-16, have a Model X since 2016, owned a 3 for a couple years and have a Y since 2021. I have loved the Model X but it's nearing end of extended warranty so I wanted a replacement. I think the new Model X is worse in some ways (e.g. no stalks, no ultrasonic sensors or...

Yeah I just got my R1S and noticed some sounds from the front after locking. I’ll check to see if it’s the louvers closing.

Tesla’s Chill Mode also attenuates the acceleration, which is just as important for carsickness. And probably has a bigger impact on efficiency when driven on city/suburban roads. But when I want to lose someone at a light, I quick switch out of Chill.

I’ve only had my R1S for 24 hours but found switching from high to standard regen helped a lot. Yesterday after turning it down I drove my daughter who is most inclined to get carsick for 30 minutes or so and she didn’t complain.