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I bought the RIvian Wall Charger at the $500 price. it works, but I wasn't overly impressed. The J1772 charging cable is massive, heavy, and fairly rigid. OTOH, it should never overheat ?. The charger knockouts for electrical cables aren't well thought out - there's no way to actually attach...

So is the issue that you need to charge a Tesla and a Rivian with a single EVSE? If so, I would opt to replace your Tesla Wall Charger with a Tesla J1772 Wall Charger and use the Tesla J1772 adapter with your Tesla. Or, even better, add a Tesla J1772 Wall Charger so that now you have two...

The Rivian home charger cable is bulky and not particularly flexible in warm weather. Personally, I would go with the Tesla J1772 EVSE - thinner cable, inexpensive, well made.

All he said on the AMA is that they are working on it, which is what we knew before the AMA. Honestly, RJ should have been born a politician. That entire AMA provided zero new useful information.

All good questions. The NACS connector is far smaller and easier to handle. The Supercharger network compared to the CCS network is far, far more reliable. It also much easier to use as they are all plug and charge, just drive up, plug in the connector and charging starts immediately...

Whatever you do, make sure there is air circulation around it, or else it’ll get worse. In general, you want it off the hot ground with some sort of shade structure that gives it relief from the southern direction. Aren't you charging at night though?

Normally you only need #6 THHN wire in conduit for a 60A breaker. Maybe you had a long run? Personally, I like to use MC cable which has the wire already built into the armored cable … much easier all around.

Yes, that’s a more likely range per hour amount. I think you’ll be fine with the Rivian portable charger. And yes, converting from a nema 14-50 outlet to a hardwired installation is fairly easy.

I recommend the Tesla J1772 EVSE. It is a third generation design, very well built.

Reading the code, they really didn’t need to lock it down this way. Personally, I think they should do a software update and fix this issues since so many people run into it. OR at the very least, update the manual to tell people about it. The real problem, of course, is that Rivian doesn’t...

I don’t know about the Rivian since I haven’t tested it, but I suspect it would work with a 120V source. All the Rivian adapter does is communicate the amp rating, not the voltage amount. Now, be careful in that the Tesla EVSE wanted the 120V hot and neutral on the correct pins, if you swapped...

And it is 42% more into the battery because the car itself steals some overhead current to run the car computer, cooling pump, fan, etc. It is negligible at higher power, but makes a difference at low power.

I can’t believe you made me do this. Nominal system voltage is 120/240 there will be some losses on various circuits of course.

Uh no. It is about 42% more charge actually going into the battery. It matters. And since we are being picky, North American household voltage has been at 120/240 volts for over a hundred years, not 110/220.

Because the Rivian portable EVSE would still only draw 12A using that adapter. We were trying to figure out how to draw 16A.

Buy this adapter (https://www.evseadapters.com/shop/en/adapters-for-ev-chargers-with-nema-14-50-plug/76-nema-5-15p-5-20p-to-14-50r-120v-ev-adapter.html) and use your Nema 14-50 plug. Then, dial down the charge setting inside the truck to 16A before you start charging. I would dial it down...

Yeah nothing special about the Rivian charger. I like the Tesla J1772 charger a lot better. Among other things, you can load share it with another Tesla charger if you get two EVs down the road.

Eh, Tesla operated like this for over ten years. Just recently they finally added a blended brake option in the controls. I agree it would be nice for it to be an option. It is a safety issue, but not a huge one. The Rivian UI does alert you to the issue.

Just poor battery thermal design. Rivian is the only vehicle manufacturer that has a single cooling plate axially cooling two sandwiched layers of cells. They screwed up, plain and simple.

I just experienced this today coming down from Big Bear Lake. Annoying. My Tesla Model X does not do this at all. I suspect it has to do with the single cooling/warming plate that is sandwiched between the two battery layers. Top layer gets too warm while the bottom gets too cold since it is...