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I went through 4 windshields on my Tundra in 2 years. Unfortunately, sh*t does happen. Are you using OE glass for all of the replacements?

This is meant to give that extra little nudge to someone who is on the fence about upgrading. Also, it's fun.

My wife was picking up her Genesis last weekend and the finance lady said she had 3 teslas on trade that day. The used market is getting flooded. For a dealer that prob does 6 cars a day. Wild.

"Panels were professionally straightened" (look at first picture) https://carsandbids.com/auctions/9lYJwMP5/2024-tesla-cybertruck-cyberbeast

They implemented down-rating a few cycles back based on connector temperature, at least on L2, so this definitely jives. I haven't read beyond what you posted here, so unclear to me if this applies to L3. Seems logical - you'd want to take into account a number of factors including the...

If you're used to having the tailgate down while hauling your bike, then you'll be fine. The R1T has an interesting gooseneck design on the tailgate which makes it considerably longer when open. It's great. I've thrown my kayak back there with a T-extender and it's been fine, despite looking...

Still consistently seeing above 2.5m/kWh in AP. Not driving a ton so vampire drain throws off measurements, but my commute, when I do it, at 80 miles r/t uses about 24%.

Another thing to check: - Find a remote parking lot with no cars - Regen in high, all-purpose mode - In standard height setting, get up to about 20mph - lift off throttle and turn hard (and safely) right while you decelerate - listen for noises (pops, etc) - repeat but turn hard left - listen...

Aaaaaaand that's why I don't ride road bikes (well, at least not as much as mtb). I want to control how I die, at least a little.

100% - it doesn't work because it would inevitably require people to do some basic math, -or- you'd need to artificially restrict the range of the BEV-only mode. They could have solved all of this (and my angst) if they'd simply used a more efficient and effective ICE generator.

I think the best way to solve this is to get a super efficient motor at a target RPM, even if it's not 100% replacement energy. Trigger it to start up well before you run out of battery, and it would replace enough to dramatically extend the distance you can travel. And if called upon to run...

Very interesting. Using the butt-dyno, does that hold up? Meaning, accel test in Auto mode, followed by accel test in Conserve, and you get similar results as measured by the seat of one's proverbial pants? (not to suggest that there's some f*ckery going on in the UI by masking the lack of...

Early-ish on for the quads, they put in a SW fix that derated the motor temporarily while the disconnect/reconnect was happening. Not sure if you had your truck prior to that, but the disconnect/reconnect used to be very abrupt and clunky. It's still noticeable, but thankfully doesn't make a...

Oh I was referring to Gen 1, which is magnetic disconnect as well but may not be the same mechanism exactly. The Munroe teardown went into some good detail on it, but it's been a while since I've watched it. Unsure how the Tri or Gen2 Quad rear clutches work, nor do I understand how the dual...

It is my (likely flawed) understanding that Conserve in the Tri trucks uses the same mechanical clutch as on the quads for the rear motors. I suspect it is the same motors, as the quads but have no data. Someone here should know more and hopefully can point to a video somewhere. I don't know...

As my orthopedist once said ... "I'm going to name the west wing of my house after you"

Dude I wear riding shorts bought from Amazon for $26 a pop. Never understood why people spend $100s on something that, while neat and probably look nice, will disintegrate after a few crashes.

It'll depend entirely on your driving style and what your destination is. I've done it, so I know it's possible, but it's also a lot less stressful (esp if you end up getting stuck sitting in traffic and running the heater) to just grab a charge in the foothills or in Sac. If I'm going to...

As someone who shreds a relatively large quantity of mountain bike clothing on a regular basis, I can say that while their stuff is overpriced, outdoor gear has become absurd across the board in the past decade. So yeah, they're high, but only slightly higher than their suppliers.

Only caveat I would add to previous statements is to ensure you know your tire symmetry before rotating. If they are symmetrical, go rearward-cross. Asymmetrical, go front-rear. FWIW I do not know if there are any directional tires in these sizes, but it's a YMMV caveat worth paying attention...