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Crystal clear, just wish I had more output from my sub.

I didn't bother with ordering them since I knew forming my own adapter would provide the result I was looking for.

I had some coaxial speakers (2-way) sitting around, so I used them: https://www.focal.com/products/ec-165-ke Keep in mind you'll need to fabricate your own panels to be used in the spot where you remove the factory speakers.

I hauled my Ducati Panigale in the R1T quite a few times last summer, transport is no different than any other truck I've ever used/owned when placing it in the bed. I prefer handlebar straps, but I also strap the rear frame for additional support.

I remember people thinking this same thing when I purchased my first Tesla Model S in 2016. Due to the vehicle being fairly new, and in Porsche price range+, the assumption was that I must be rich. Rich is definitely in the eye of the beholder, but expect some assumptions to be made if you own...

Prior Tesla owner here for nearly a decade (non CarPlay)... The only time I ever thought twice about Apple CarPlay, was when I purchased my Rivian in March of this year and realized it didn't have basic text message integration. I was very annoyed about this, and still am, but it's great to see...

Home Depot didn't believe me when I told them I could fit a 52" Husky tool chest combo in the R1S...Mission accomplished in 1 trip, all doors were closed.

Would you mind following up with how the process played out for this scenario? I'm primarily concerned about the tax implications for both parties (e.g., did you have to pay sales tax on the purchase and the buyer ended up doing this as well).

I recently ran into this issue when I traveled from FL to D.C. I had to wait a few times at superchargers since I could only park on one side and the cable reaches. Each time I pulled up to a SC with a trailer option, there was a Tesla with no trailer utilizing it. Meh..

I haven't experienced the freezing issue, but the voice prompt for the final destination now says the wrong side of the street.

Once the wiring is inside the cabin, simply route it behind the carpet and to the rear of the vehicle (I routed to the other side since I used 4 channel wiring). No need to mess with the center console on the floor, you can push the wiring through behind it and just grab it from the other side...

I don't have my primary tools with me, so I had to improvise with my Dremel tool to make the adapter plate, but it worked like a charm (be sure to cut it as to not cover the holes for the door panel retainer clips). Cutting the circle inside the ABS plastic was a breeze since I had the...

The door panels are a PITA to get back on, by far the worst design I've endured with any car audio install. The top portion is very flimsy and has to mount onto a metal track touching the window. Trying to do this and allow a metal clip at the top to insert into its proper place is frustrating.

I can confirm that the speakers are 4Ω and mid bass only. I can't fully tell what the speakers are truly made out of, but its actually quite beefy inside the thick plastic housing.

Door card? Are you referring to the panel? If so, watch this video.

The last install I completed, I used 6/3 Romex, so this may be the culprit. It was my understanding that using this on a 50A breaker shouldn't cause any overheating issues whatsoever, but it definitely does sporadically over extended charging sessions. I've only been charging at 32A when it has...

When I open it back up, I'll try to answer these questions. I'm almost certain the speakers are 4Ω, but I'll put it on the multimeter to verify. I'm surprised they didn't just do all of the 6X9s as midbass, the rear speakers are midbass (separate tweeters), or at least that's the signal they are...

Debate is healthy, resorting to name calling is childish, surprised this is the route you've taken. This will be my last response to you on this topic. To support my comment, I've had several instances in the past 8 years of EV charging, where my 32A mobile connectors will heat up to the point...

I can't argue with the manual, but no way I'm using #6 for continuous current draw @ 48A. The heat buildup over 4+ hours is a hazard.

Maybe I'm missing something, but I don't know of any EV hardwire install that'll support #6 wiring @ 48A. I think many of the manufacturers switched to 32A mobile connectors due to the 40A overheating long term on the NEMA 14-50s.