GEN 1 R1T Home Charging Frustrations

[RickRivian]

You should be getting above 237V or so and it looks like you are only pulling 207V. I would work from the panel back out to the charger and see what readings you are getting. Chances may be that the voltage drop is occurring well upstream of your chargers.

No. 3 phase industrial connection. 208v.

I am going to ask the electrician to look at it again just to be certain, but based on the comments here and the math, it appears to be the nature of 3 phase power. I am fine with the lower power numbers this as long as it's not a charger or vehicle issue.

You're wasting your money. Simply call and ask him, and he will confirm.

Sponsored

 

[beatle]

3 phase is weird. You get 120v on each hot (as seen) but only 208v combined (as seen) since the phases are 120 degrees out of phase and not 180 degrees like you see in a house, so the peaks of each phase are not seen at the same time.

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase_electric_power

Rivian's power reporting in the truck and App/API is annoying since they don't tell you the volts and amps, so it makes troubleshooting things unnecessarily difficult. They also don't consider the efficiency loss of the onboard charger, so you see the "kw at battery" rating. This is also kind of helpful, but confusing without that context.

I get 240v+ at home on my connectors, and I pull 40A, but I only see 9.2kw and not 9.6kw+ due to efficiency loss of the onboard charger.

 

[Erik+]

No. 3 phase industrial connection. 208v.


Correct, I replied before seeing it was not a residential application.

 

[GreggVA]

You just need to upgrade to 277/480V wye jk!

edited to be clear the smiley face was that I was kidding.

 

[Dasoss]

No need to call the electrician - it's very much because of three-phase power. You see the same kind of voltages with Level 2 chargers at parking garages and other commercial buildings because of that.

The DC option would be interesting, but has been mentioned it's really expensive for what you are getting (only about 25kW from what I'm seeing in a quick "I'm just getting clocked in at work" search).

It is common to wire commercial buildings with 208 V 3 phase, Y connected. In this scheme, there are 4 wires plus protective ground (L1, L2, L3, N, G). The voltage between any two of the three lines is 208 V. The voltage between any one of the three lines and neutral is 120 V. There is no simple way to get 240 volts. The line to neutral voltages are 120 degrees apart, rather than 180 degrees as in the common split-phase home wiring. The ratio is the cosine of 120 degrees. The take away is that your lower charge rate is due to low voltage at the charger, and there is nothing that you can do about it without rewiring your shop. L1 and L2 ac chargers are, in general, not capable of altering or controlling their output voltage--they just pass on what they get. They do perform necessary safety, control, and isolation functions.

 

[Dasoss]

You just need to upgrade to 277/480V wye

Don't do that. It could damage your vehicle if the safety circuits don't prevent charging altogether.

 

[lmerani]

I spoke with my electrician and he confirmed that 3 phase is the culprit. It's not really an issue, but just the nature of 3 phase.
I am totally fine with this now that I understand what's happening and I will not be making any changes other than reinstalling the Tesla universal charger (the charge cord is better quality and more flexible than the Autel, plus the Tesla charger has better Wifi reception. The Autel does not reliably pick up the Wifi through the shop metal siding).
Also, I will not install a DCFC. That was more of a joke.
Thanks all, case closed.

 

[slillie]

I am struggling to understand why my 2023 R1T Dual Max Performance doesn't charge above 10kW on the Tesla universal wall charger or the Autel Maxicharge 50A EV charger. I also have an EVIQO EV charger that the truck is able to pull 10.8kW consistently during every charge, but for some reason, it will not pull more than 9.8kW from the Tesla or Autel chargers even though they are both configured for the max charge rate and are on a 60A breaker.

I have the EVIQO charger at one of my residences, but went with the Tesla charger at another residence. When I realized the truck was not charging at the max rate for 50A EV charger, I researched and found similar experiences from other Rivian owners.I decided to try the Autel 50A charger instead, and again, installed it the same 60A breaker that the Tesla universal wall charger was wired to before. I saw a lot of good reviews on the Autel, but so far in my experience, it's not charging any faster than the Tesla charger.
The EVIQO charger is by far the most economical charger here, yet the truck is able to pull almost 11 kW from it without issue, consistently.
I went with the Tesla mainly for the built in universal connector and then with the Autel for the RFID card feature. Unfortunately, it looks like the premium EV chargers provide a lesser charging experience than the budget charger.
There are many EV owners reporting awesome success with the Tesla and Autel chargers, both with Tesla's and Rivians, but I don't know why my experience is different. And yes, the charge amp setting in my R1T is set to 48A.
I am aware of the home charging bug, but unless I misunderstand it, it seems to be affecting Gen 2, not Gen 1 R1's.

I am about to return both the Tesla and Autel charges and get another EVIQO charger, but I prefer the Telsa and Autel for the aforementioned reasons.

Am I doing something wrong or am I missing something obvious here?


9.4KW is pretty standard for my setup (Tesla Gen 2 Charger) and haven't had any issues.

 

[slillie]

I am struggling to understand why my 2023 R1T Dual Max Performance doesn't charge above 10kW on the Tesla universal wall charger or the Autel Maxicharge 50A EV charger. I also have an EVIQO EV charger that the truck is able to pull 10.8kW consistently during every charge, but for some reason, it will not pull more than 9.8kW from the Tesla or Autel chargers even though they are both configured for the max charge rate and are on a 60A breaker.

I have the EVIQO charger at one of my residences, but went with the Tesla charger at another residence. When I realized the truck was not charging at the max rate for 50A EV charger, I researched and found similar experiences from other Rivian owners.I decided to try the Autel 50A charger instead, and again, installed it the same 60A breaker that the Tesla universal wall charger was wired to before. I saw a lot of good reviews on the Autel, but so far in my experience, it's not charging any faster than the Tesla charger.
The EVIQO charger is by far the most economical charger here, yet the truck is able to pull almost 11 kW from it without issue, consistently.
I went with the Tesla mainly for the built in universal connector and then with the Autel for the RFID card feature. Unfortunately, it looks like the premium EV chargers provide a lesser charging experience than the budget charger.
There are many EV owners reporting awesome success with the Tesla and Autel chargers, both with Tesla's and Rivians, but I don't know why my experience is different. And yes, the charge amp setting in my R1T is set to 48A.
I am aware of the home charging bug, but unless I misunderstand it, it seems to be affecting Gen 2, not Gen 1 R1's.

I am about to return both the Tesla and Autel charges and get another EVIQO charger, but I prefer the Telsa and Autel for the aforementioned reasons.

Am I doing something wrong or am I missing something obvious here?

9-10KW is pretty standard on my Tesla (2nd gen charger) charger. I don't have any issues on my MaxPack.

 

[hudesigns]

Great discussions! Always learn something. Thanks everyone!

 

[VSG]

It's a shop on our property and it was wired for 3 phase. This makes sense. Not a charger or Rivian issue then.

Which is why I asked, in post #2, about your voltage.

Sponsored