Wall charger installation at home - suggestions and recommendations? ⚡️⚡️

[Eyes like a hawk]

I used 6 AWG THNN for my 14-50 plug for our Tesla (incase we upgraded to wall connector), plug required a 4 wire connection (Black, White, Red and Green).

Is the Rivian wall charger only requiring 3?
I assume the only thing different I need to do is go with a 60 AMP breaker and grab the 6AWG THNN in White, Black and Green?

6AWG THNN in Red, Black and Green, if you use white you must wrap the last couple of inches with black tape to indicate its hot, you already have the red so use that, its considered hot.

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[ajdelange]

Is the Rivian wall charger only requiring 3?
I assume the only thing different I need to do is go with a 60 AMP breaker and grab the 6AWG THNN in White, Black and Green?

I may have responded to this before but as it has popped up again let's review:
You need two current carrying conductors which need to be capable of carrying 60 A and are rated for 75 °C. No. 6 THHN, THWN, THHN-2 will all do and they can be any color you like as long as they are marked (with tape or by other means) everywhere they are visible in a panel or junction box and in the EVSE with, respectively, black and red. Or, of course, you can buy them with black and red insulation. The third conductor you need is the grounding conductor. It can be insulated in green, marked with green tape or be uninsulated (bare) wire and, with a 60 A breaker, can be as small as AWG 10. but as the EVSE tests for ground impedance you may want to use No. 8 AWG for your ground. You will save a few $ on a long run by buying uninsulated smaller gauge wire for your ground wire.

Probably the easiest way to handle all this is to buy 6/2 THHN cable which will have two 6 AWG insulated conductors and one bare No. 8 in a jacket.

Now I can't find any 6/2 but I can find 6/3 and, as I always recommend pulling neutral, even though it is not required for EVSE, would chose it rather than 6/2 even if I could find 6/2.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-3c-thhn-pvc-tray-cable-with-ground at
$4.10/ft. This stuff can be run through walls just as you would NM-B which makes for easy installation in new or existing construction and for very neat (no conduit) appearance.

 

[IRun]

I may have responded to this before but as it has popped up again let's review:
You need two current carrying conductors which need to be capable of carrying 60 A and are rated for 75 °C. No. 6 THHN, THWN, THHN-2 will all do and they can be any color you like as long as they are marked (with tape or by other means) everywhere they are visible in a panel or junction box and in the EVSE with, respectively, black and red. Or, of course, you can buy them with black and red insulation. The third conductor you need is the grounding conductor. It can be insulated in green, marked with green tape or be uninsulated (bare) wire and, with a 60 A breaker, can be as small as AWG 10. but as the EVSE tests for ground impedance you may want to use No. 8 AWG for your ground. You will save a few $ on a long run by buying uninsulated smaller gauge wire for your ground wire.

Probably the easiest way to handle all this is to buy 6/2 THHN cable which will have two 6 AWG insulated conductors and one bare No. 8 in a jacket.

Now I can't find any 6/2 but I can find 6/3 and, as I always recommend pulling neutral, even though it is not required for EVSE, would chose it rather than 6/2 even if I could find 6/2.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-3c-thhn-pvc-tray-cable-with-ground at
$4.10/ft. This stuff can be run through walls just as you would NM-B which makes for easy installation in new or existing construction and for very neat (no conduit) appearance.

You did, but good info for others so thank you!
I installed about 2 weeks ago with no issues.
Went with the THHN 6 AWG, $1.58 at Home Depot, only needed 10 feet so didn't care to shop around and wait. Only pulled Black, Red and Green as I had leftover 3/4" conduit and didn't want to try and pull a neutral through as well for future upgrading since we just started building a new home. Next owners problem. Was also able to do the connection to the box a bit cleaner without a neutral. 4 - 6AWG connections through 3/4" conduit was a PITA when I ran the 14-50 plug.

One issue that probably isn't an issue is the warmth of the 60amp breaker while charging. It does get warm to the touch, maybe around 90 degrees according to an IR temp gun. Not hot, just warm so i'm only slightly paranoid since the breaker our 14-50 is on doesn't get warm at all.
We have a 200 amp panel and only have the Dryer, 14-50 plug, AC and now the Rivian charger on a breaker over 20 amps. I figure I can charge both vehicles run the dryer and AC and still be safe, granted, mainly only charge both vehicles at night.

 

[CGM55082]

I may have responded to this before but as it has popped up again let's review:
You need two current carrying conductors which need to be capable of carrying 60 A and are rated for 75 °C. No. 6 THHN, THWN, THHN-2 will all do and they can be any color you like as long as they are marked (with tape or by other means) everywhere they are visible in a panel or junction box and in the EVSE with, respectively, black and red. Or, of course, you can buy them with black and red insulation. The third conductor you need is the grounding conductor. It can be insulated in green, marked with green tape or be uninsulated (bare) wire and, with a 60 A breaker, can be as small as AWG 10. but as the EVSE tests for ground impedance you may want to use No. 8 AWG for your ground. You will save a few $ on a long run by buying uninsulated smaller gauge wire for your ground wire.

Probably the easiest way to handle all this is to buy 6/2 THHN cable which will have two 6 AWG insulated conductors and one bare No. 8 in a jacket.

Now I can't find any 6/2 but I can find 6/3 and, as I always recommend pulling neutral, even though it is not required for EVSE, would chose it rather than 6/2 even if I could find 6/2.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-3c-thhn-pvc-tray-cable-with-ground at
$4.10/ft. This stuff can be run through walls just as you would NM-B which makes for easy installation in new or existing construction and for very neat (no conduit) appearance.

Thanks for posting this. Would this option work as well and meet code?

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com..._4Aj_E_28Bcuwo17WXmRZ5djxFFrdhyxoCLP8QAvD_BwE

 

[TXR1S]

I may have responded to this before but as it has popped up again let's review:
You need two current carrying conductors which need to be capable of carrying 60 A and are rated for 75 °C. No. 6 THHN, THWN, THHN-2 will all do and they can be any color you like as long as they are marked (with tape or by other means) everywhere they are visible in a panel or junction box and in the EVSE with, respectively, black and red. Or, of course, you can buy them with black and red insulation. The third conductor you need is the grounding conductor. It can be insulated in green, marked with green tape or be uninsulated (bare) wire and, with a 60 A breaker, can be as small as AWG 10. but as the EVSE tests for ground impedance you may want to use No. 8 AWG for your ground. You will save a few $ on a long run by buying uninsulated smaller gauge wire for your ground wire.

Probably the easiest way to handle all this is to buy 6/2 THHN cable which will have two 6 AWG insulated conductors and one bare No. 8 in a jacket.

Now I can't find any 6/2 but I can find 6/3 and, as I always recommend pulling neutral, even though it is not required for EVSE, would chose it rather than 6/2 even if I could find 6/2.

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com/6-3c-thhn-pvc-tray-cable-with-ground at
$4.10/ft. This stuff can be run through walls just as you would NM-B which makes for easy installation in new or existing construction and for very neat (no conduit) appearance.

Super interesting, I had not considered tray cable for this application.

I’m not an expert, but it looks like ampacity may still be limited to 60C?

Note that the ampacity of the cable is limited to 600 C, due to the installation requirements found in Articles 334 and 340. There is an exception that permits the use of the 750 C ampacity column if the cable is used for permanently installed generator applications that have equipment and terminals rated at 750 C at all conductor terminations.

https://www.nema.org/docs/default-s...esidential-applications.pdf?sfvrsn=6a94dacb_2

 

[ajdelange]

So the Wallbox Pulsar plus with a 14-50 is not NEC compliant? OEM says it software adjustable so that means can't be NEC?

It is compliant in the sense that you cannot dial in more than 40A which is fine for a 14-50R on a 50A circuit but isn't for a 14-50R on a 40A circuit. The NEC requirement is that the user not be able to adjust the maximum the device can allow.

 

[ajdelange]

Would this option work as well and meet code?

https://www.wireandcableyourway.com..._4Aj_E_28Bcuwo17WXmRZ5djxFFrdhyxoCLP8QAvD_BwE

AFAIK though I am not sure how to interpret "Bare copper ground wire, sized in accordance with NEC and UL, with green THHN insulation.".

 

[japine]

Has anybody had experience installing a wall charger at home? How was the experience? Is it worthwhile?

I’m in the Houston area and welcome any suggestions and recommendations.

Thanks!

New member and saw your post. I have installed 4 using licensed electricians. You will need a 220 V (think washer/dryer) from panel and proper breaker (also remember its the amp not volts that gets you so be careful if you plan to install on your own). I have never spent more than $500 (pre-inflation jump) in Central Florida. There are several non-Rivian chargers out there that will cost you about $750 or so. You should be $1500 all in. Good luck. Johnny.

 

[ajdelange]

I’m not an expert, but it looks like ampacity may still be limited to 60C?

https://www.nema.org/docs/default-s...esidential-applications.pdf?sfvrsn=6a94dacb_2

That link refers to NM-B which is limited to 60 °C ratings. The cable I linked to is "Rated at 90°C dry, 75°C wet."

 

[AdamUCF]

New member and saw your post. I have installed 4 using licensed electricians. You will need a 220 V (think washer/dryer) from panel and proper breaker (also remember its the amp not volts that gets you so be careful if you plan to install on your own). I have never spent more than $500 (pre-inflation jump) in Central Florida. There are several non-Rivian chargers out there that will cost you about $750 or so. You should be $1500 all in. Good luck. Johnny.

Have an electrician that knows their way around EV chargers? Or maybe they all do by now. I'll probably need it in a few months.

 

[japine]

Yes reach out when ready and I can send him over. I am in the Bay Hill area Adam.

 

[ajdelange]

remember its the amp not volts that gets you so be careful if you plan to install on your own

Yes but its the volts that drive the amps. Double the voltage and twice as many amps will flow. Be careful in any case.

 

[japine]

Yes but its the volts that drive the amps. Double the voltage and twice as many amps will flow. Be careful in any case.

Yes anything above 300 milliamps will cause long-term injury/death. I am an attorney and recently handled a death case involving water heater install/electrocution. The body will usually provide resistance of approx 100k Ohms but that drops significantly (to approx 1,000 ohms) when the skin is wet (even sweaty). The deceased was electrocuted and his body became the ground placing his heart in cardiac arrest. He was a DIY kinda guy that was not too careful and very unaware sadly.

 

[ajdelange]

One issue that probably isn't an issue is the warmth of the 60amp breaker while charging. It does get warm to the touch, maybe around 90 degrees according to an IR temp gun. Not hot, just warm so i'm only slightly paranoid since the breaker our 14-50 is on doesn't get warm at all.

90 °F is only 32 °C and the breaker is rated 75 °C so you are in good shape. The 50A breaker feeding the 14-50 would handle 5/6 the amount of current as the 60A breaker and so, ceteris paribus, would dissipate 70% as much heat.

To be absolutely ceratain all is kosher examine the suspect breaker with an I/R camera. If the stabs or wire connection appear hotter than those on similar breakers in the panel you may have something to worry about, Unlikely though.

 

[ajdelange]

Yes anything above 300 milliamps will cause long-term injury/death. I am an attorney and recently handled a death case involving water heater install/electrocution. The body will usually provide resistance of approx 100k Ohms but that drops significantly (to approx 1,000 ohms) when the skin is wet (even sweaty). The deceased was electrocuted and his body became the ground placing his heart in cardiac arrest.

The resistance between two fingers measures 3.2 MΩ whereas the resistance between two points on my tongue maesures 12KΩ so not quite 3 orders of magnitde but rather 2.4. What really eats one's lunch is if the skin is broken. Like it or not, and don't take this personally, you are, truth be known, a big bag of salty water.

The deceased was electrocuted and his body became the ground placing his heart in cardiac arrest.

He became the path to ground. Not a good thing to be if one has broken skin or, really, in any case. One interesting aspect of this is that even with a water heater he would have only been exposed to 120V as when the black wire (in a 240V circuit) is at +120V the red one is at -120V (difference 240V). The get 240 in a normally wired residence you have to really wand to kill yourself as you must contact both the red and black wires.

He was a DIY kinda guy that was not too careful and very unaware sadly.

I really don't advise DIY.

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