Emergency Jump starter powerful enough for dead Rivian 12v

[MacO512]

Does anyone know of jump starters that are powerful enough to wake a dead Rivian 12v?

I had my Tesla Y completely die on Saturday and it was a major PITA getting it resolved - so I want to be proactive and prepared with the Rivian. I will have tools in either a license plate holder or hitch storage holder that can mechanically open the frunk in an emergency. I store jumper cables in the frunk, but if there is no ICE vehicle available I want to be prepared.

Basic jumper packs should work fine to wake my Tesla but the Rivian says it needs 30amps continuous for an extended period (I'm speculating around 15 seconds or so) which is much more than basic jumper packs can provide. These packs are designed to deliver far more CCA to ICE vehicles - but only for less than a second.

I have been looking at Nono Boost X series - the GBX55 seems like it has quite a bit of power. Has anyone successfully used one of these types of packs to wake a dead 12v system in a Rivian? I'm just not sure it can deliver the ~30a needed for a long enough time period.
https://no.co/gbx55

The alternative option that seems the most full proof is to have a completely spare 12v battery which can output 30A. A Lifepo one like this is only 7lbs and being lifepo probably will retain enough charge to leave in the frunk for 6+ months without charging.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09N9BBS68?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

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[Nixapatfan]

If your goal is to make it driveable after 12v failure in a remote area then the chances are slim if the 12v is really dead like at 0 volts or can't hold a charge for that I'd recommend just carrying a spare battery and tools to swap it. If the goal is to be able to get access to the vehicle and prep it for towing then a jump pack would be ok.

I used a full size car battery and still needed it hooked up for about an hour before it woke up to open the frunk and driver door so your success will highly depend on the remaining charge level of the 12v.

 

[MacO512]

Thanks for the reply.

Yeah the goal is being able to boot the vehicle up so it can be driven. My understanding is once the vehicle is booted the HV pack will power dc-dc for 12v so the 12v battery health when the vehicle is awake then shouldn't matter. I suppose you are right a spare battery is the most foolproof. The problem is you can't buy the stock rivian 12v battery, and the Ohmm one is the only alternative but seems way expensive at nearly $400 just to have sitting around as a spare. I'd think one such as the $70 I linked should be able to easily power the necessary 12v voltage and 30a. Plus I might be able to utilize for other purposes.

I assume your hook up that took an hour was to the jump terminals to the right of the tow hitch?

 

[Nixapatfan]

About 10 minutes at jump leads to get frunk and door open. My batteries were completely dead at 0 volts so had to leave jump battery connected directly to battery with the terminal blocks disconnected until voltages equalized between batteries and get enough voltage for the charger to recognize and run a desulfate and charge cycle. Then repeat for 2nd battery in all took about a whole day to get it to a point where the truck was drivable, luckily this was in my driveway and have multiple cars.

All the accessories and computers on the truck run off the 12v, if the 12v is completely dead / internally shorted a temporary jump is not going to get you going, will die soon after the jumper is removed as the battery supplies the reserve capacity for the dc-dc converter. If the battery is capable of holding some charge then a jump might just be enough.

As for getting parts from Rivian, your mileage may vary. My only replacement part order request was honored without any problems so if you really want an oem spare go to the SC and ask them the worst they can say is no. I'd personally go with an aftermarket one as the Rivian OE battery is something like $700 for the dual setup.

The battery is a standard deep cycle AGM 18ah battery(Gen1) only variable is the terminal locations to mate up with the terminal block, the Ohmu battery uses an aluminum plate to adapt it so you could easily make one from aluminum or copper bar stock if you can't find a battery with the same terminal screw location.

 

[Tim-in-CA]

Rivian really needs to either make a jump pack that is suitable for their vehicles or recommend one that is tested and proven to work. The 12V batteries really seem to be the vehicle's Achilles Heel.

 

[MacO512]

About 10 minutes at jump leads to get frunk and door open. My batteries were completely dead at 0 volts so had to leave jump battery connected directly to battery with the terminal blocks disconnected until voltages equalized between batteries and get enough voltage for the charger to recognize and run a desulfate and charge cycle. Then repeat for 2nd battery in all took about a whole day to get it to a point where the truck was drivable, luckily this was in my driveway and have multiple cars.

All the accessories and computers on the truck run off the 12v, if the 12v is completely dead / internally shorted a temporary jump is not going to get you going, will die soon after the jumper is removed as the battery supplies the reserve capacity for the dc-dc converter. If the battery is capable of holding some charge then a jump might just be enough.

As for getting parts from Rivian, your mileage may vary. My only replacement part order request was honored without any problems so if you really want an oem spare go to the SC and ask them the worst they can say is no. I'd personally go with an aftermarket one as the Rivian OE battery is something like $700 for the dual setup.

The battery is a standard deep cycle AGM 18ah battery(Gen1) only variable is the terminal locations to mate up with the terminal block, the Ohmu battery uses an aluminum plate to adapt it so you could easily make one from aluminum or copper bar stock if you can't find a battery with the same terminal screw location.

Yeah those are good points. I do have the single battery which makes this simpler. I could just get a similar size AGM as a backup. I prefer the idea of lifepo as it can sit 6 months without being charged. But not sure lifepo is available in that form factor that can deliver 30a continuous.

 

[MacO512]

So looks like this $70 lifepo battery would fit the LxWxH of 7.1/3.0/7.4 stock Rivian 12v battery

Provides 30A continuous the Rivian needs, while being 30Ah instead of stock 18Ah. AGM also should only be discharged 50% - so thats 9Ah usable vs triple with lifepo. Wouldn't shock me if ohmmu just basically relabels some other brands batteries like these when they sell them for $360. Maybe they spend $15 to upgrade the BMS that can push a bit more current.

So if I bought this I'd just need to create some adapter plates which shouldn't be hard. In a 12v failure could try using it to jump the stock 12v first but if that doesn't work could swap with stock if needed.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DHRDQQ7...ref_=cm_sw_r_cp_ud_lstpd_3KDNG4A1KC1VR8RN7NST

Utterly insane this is the physical size of battery, but with a third the usable capacity, Rivian decided should be fine for a $90k 7000lb offroad vehicle.

 

[RapidRise]

These types of things were solved by the ICE RV'ers and pickup truck people long ago. The typical solution is to have two batteries. A "battery isolator" installed inline will allow both batteries to charge but prevent the second from being used unless a switch is thrown. When the primary is dead, flip the switch.

Second option, a "battery protector" will disconnect a battery when a set low voltage is reached, preventing further drain and allowing the battery to retain enough to start (activate) the vehicle. This can be used in a single battery setup or in combination with a two battery setup.

Both seem like simple solutions to this Rivian problem but also still good sense solutions for a camping and off-roading rig.

 

[MacO512]

These types of things were solved by the ICE RV'ers and pickup truck people long ago. The typical solution is to have two batteries. A "battery isolator" installed inline will allow both batteries to charge but prevent the second from being used unless a switch is thrown. When the primary is dead, flip the switch.

Second option, a "battery protector" will disconnect a battery when a set low voltage is reached, preventing further drain and allowing the battery to retain enough to start (activate) the vehicle. This can be used in a single battery setup or in combination with a two battery setup.

Both seem like simple solutions to this Rivian problem but also still good sense solutions for a camping and off-roading rig.

Yes you are correct. I've done some custom work on motorhomes electrical system/solar/inverters so yes I'm aware of the starting/house battery configurations. Some of the complication with the Rivian is that you don't want to ever disconnect the main 12v battery as you'll potentially get error codes. Also you physically cannot get into the vehicle interior without 12v power so everything must be in the frunk.

Yes basically what you propose of a 2nd battery is what I'm leaning towards implementing. I don't think I need to bother with a switch to use it as its such a limited event (hopefully it never occurs) so I can use jumper cables in that case. A switch also wouldn't work if the primarily battery had a short or other major error - a battery swap would be needed. Now I could setup a DC>DC charger to keep the spare automatically topped off at all times. I'm not sure that is necessary though with lifepo easily able to be stored for 3-6 months. Also if everything is just sitting in my frunk I can easily take it out for service and avoid any arguments with Rivian.

I think if I decide to go this route with the spare lifepo I'll have to look at how the spare physically fits in the frunk to decide if I want to add some automatic way of keeping the spare battery charged. That part would have been much easier if my R1 had frunk 12v outlet like the early rivians, or the additional wires in the harness to easily add myself. I might have to just add a direct dc-dc charger to the Rivian battery but make sure it only runs when over 14 volts (car awake)

 

[dradam]

The battery is a standard deep cycle AGM 18ah battery(Gen1) only variable is the terminal locations to mate up with the terminal block, the Ohmu battery uses an aluminum plate to adapt it so you could easily make one from aluminum or copper bar stock if you can't find a battery with the same terminal screw location.

I did go to the SC, Asked to buy a battery- they said NO. Would love to keep a backup in the frunk. I keep tools to get in the frunk in the trailer hitch. If anyone here can show off a battery with the dimensions for an adaptor plate that is what I would do. Don't want to spend $400 on an Ohmmu.

 

[Nixapatfan]

Original battery specs are here EVP_DCS_DataSheet_08312022.pdf can't help you with dimensions for adapter plates but if you are capable of replacing the battery I'm sure you can figure out the terminal locations on the replacement, they don't have to be in exact same location just close enough to the originals. There are many on Amazon that looks to be close enough.

Disaster planning requires practicing so get a battery and swap it and figure out everything you'll need.

I personally just monitor vampire drain and sleep cycles to determine when those are on the edge, when you start losing more than 2% a night on a regular basis then you'll be living adventurous.

 

[MacO512]

I did go to the SC, Asked to buy a battery- they said NO. Would love to keep a backup in the frunk. I keep tools to get in the frunk in the trailer hitch. If anyone here can show off a battery with the dimensions for an adaptor plate that is what I would do. Don't want to spend $400 on an Ohmmu.

I'd prefer to use lifepo as the 12v backup as its much easier to keep the charge maintained as well as lighter. Close to home I may not keep the 12v spare in the vehicle. I have jumper cables and the primary plan would be to use the spare to jump the R1 and wake it so I can drive to a location for a permanent repair. I'm thinking of something like this which has same dimensions and provides the necessary 30amps continuous Rivian says a jump requires;

https://a.co/d/3Lxf0zI

Yes ideally to be the most foolproof I would like to figure out a simple adapter as well for that possibility that the original 12v has a short or something. I'd have a MRBF fuse on the spare so it should blow that first if the Rivian 12v has a dead short and protect the lifepo spare. I need to find the screw type that Rivian uses for the battery to make an adapter plate. Not sure exactly how to pull that screw out of my rivian 12v to test while keeping 12v power as I don't want to risk a bunch of error codes. The battery I linked above says it has an M5 screw so ideally if the rivian had a similar terminal might even be able to skip the adapter plate. From watching Ohhm install video it appears there is some flexibility in exactly where the rivian connections can be moved to line up with the 12v terminals.

 

[BCondrey]

I bought this, and keep it in the sub frunk. Amazon.com: Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC770R 1700 Peak Amp Premium 12 Volt Jump Starter - Red : Automotive

I have the tools to get in the frunk locked in the hitch. I hope it works if I ever need it.

 

[MacO512]

I bought this, and keep it in the sub frunk. Amazon.com: Clore Automotive Jump-N-Carry JNC770R 1700 Peak Amp Premium 12 Volt Jump Starter - Red : Automotive

I have the tools to get in the frunk locked in the hitch. I hope it works if I ever need it.

I'm skeptical of a jump starter working as they are made to deliver huge amps(700+) but only for one second to an ICE vehicle. The Rivian needs decent amps (30) but for a much longer period.

Sounds like jump starters can work if your battery is partially bad or having trouble with a full charge in many situations. But there could be many situations it's not enough power. A 6lb lifepo battery seems like a better solution IMO.

If anyone has experience with jump starters working I'd be very interested to hear it.

 

[Mark_AZR1T]

These types of things were solved by the ICE RV'ers and pickup truck people long ago. The typical solution is to have two batteries. A "battery isolator" installed inline will allow both batteries to charge but prevent the second from being used unless a switch is thrown. When the primary is dead, flip the switch.

Second option, a "battery protector" will disconnect a battery when a set low voltage is reached, preventing further drain and allowing the battery to retain enough to start (activate) the vehicle. This can be used in a single battery setup or in combination with a two battery setup.

Both seem like simple solutions to this Rivian problem but also still good sense solutions for a camping and off-roading rig.

I'm pretty sure either of these solutions would work. I'm on a dual-battery set-up, so need a spot for a third battery. We boondock sometimes, so this would offer peace of mind as well.

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