Rear Brake Pad and Rotor Replacement on a 2022 Rivian R1T -- DIY How-To

[SolartoEV]

I began the process by setting the truck to "Off-Road Mode" at its highest ride height and enabling "Tire Change Mode". To ensure stability and safety, I securely chocked the front wheels—both in front and behind the tires—while parked on a level surface.

Next, I re-entered the vehicle, fastened the seatbelt behind my back, and engaged "Car Wash Mode" while in drive before shifting into neutral. I left the door slightly ajar when I exited.

Driver-Side Rear Brake Replacement
1. Wheel and Caliper Removal
- Removed the wheel.
- Removed the two 14mm bolts securing the brake caliper.
- Disconnected the electronic parking brake clip, which triggered a parking brake error message on the dashboard.

2. Caliper Piston Retraction
- Opened the caliper bleeder valve.
- Used a 9V battery with two small wires attached to its terminals to manually retract the electronic parking brake piston.
- Determined the correct polarity to retract the piston and applied voltage while using a small hand clamp to apply gentle pressure.
- Repeated the process 3–4 times in 3–5 second intervals until the piston was fully retracted.
- Attached a tube and a small rubber fitting to the bleeder screw to capture excess brake fluid.

3. Bracket and Pad Installation
- Removed the pad bracket and the old hardware.
- Cleaned the bracket thoroughly before reinstalling the pad clips.
- Reinstalled the bracket, applied brake grease to both ends of the new brake pads, and secured them in place.
- Upon reconnecting the electronic parking brake clip, the warning messages on the dashboard cleared automatically.

Passenger-Side Rear Brake Replacement
On the passenger side, I followed the same procedure but discovered that the rotor could be removed without taking off the pad bracket. Instead, I cleaned the bracket in place and replaced the hardware while it remained installed. The pad bracket bolts were secured with thread locker and proved difficult to remove on the driver’s side, so leaving them untouched on the passenger side saved effort.

Final Thoughts
Overall, the job was straightforward, though it does require a solid understanding of automotive repair. I was in car wash mode for about 1.5 hours with no issues. With 20 years of experience working on vehicles, I wouldn’t consider it overly difficult, but it is not necessarily beginner-friendly. By sourcing parts through RockAuto and handling the installation myself, I was able to save a significant amount of money compared to Rivian doing it .


If you have made it this far and found my information helpful, and by any chance if you are looking for a Rivian Referral code to use. I would throw my hat in the ring CAMERON17601821

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[Thedude]

Why did the rotor need replacement already?

 

[SolartoEV]

Why did the rotor need replacement already?

72,000 miles of north east coast weather. Salt

 

[R1Thor]

GREAT WRITEUP, good sir. Thank you!

- Used a 9V battery with two small wires attached to its terminals to manually retract the electronic parking brake piston.

I was sincerely wondering if this approach would work: this is exactly what I had to do with my Volvo V60 brakes.

However one quick question, why this step:

- Opened the caliper bleeder valve.

Were you bleeding your valves intentionally (swapping or flushing brake fluid)?
Or is there some other reason you had to bleed the brake lines?

 

[SolartoEV]

GREAT WRITEUP, good sir. Thank you!


I was sincerely wondering if this approach would work: this is exactly what I had to do with my Volvo V60 brakes.

However one quick question, why this step:


Were you bleeding your valves intentionally (swapping or flushing brake fluid)?
Or is there some other reason you had to bleed the brake lines?

I was instructed by a mechanic friend that sometimes trying to push the fluid back to the reservoir on more sophisticated vehicles might cause issues.

I had tried to also compress the piston without it open and it seemed difficult and I didn't want to push my luck. The fluid that came out was maybe an ounce per side.

For knowing there would be no issues it was worth it.

 

[Oldsmobile_Mike]

Great write-up! Needs photos, LOL.

One dumb question: Do you need to do the 9V battery thing? Probably showing my age, but none of my other vehicles had electronic brakes. You could just open the reservoir cap or bleeder and crank the piston in with a clamp. Guessing that wouldn't work here?

Or is this only for the rear brakes?

 

[R1Thor]

Great write-up! Needs photos, LOL.

One dumb question: Do you need to do the 9V battery thing? Probably showing my age, but none of my other vehicles had electronic brakes. You could just open the reservoir cap or bleeder and crank the piston in with a clamp. Guessing that wouldn't work here?

Or is this only for the rear brakes?

Your rear brakes double as your parking brakes and they're electronically actuated. Hence the need for the 9V battery 'trick.' (to reverse that electrically actuated servo)

In this instance, you ALSO need to move the pistons out of the way with the clamp in order to create room for your fresh brake pads, as OP has noted.

 

[R1Thor]

I was instructed by a mechanic friend that sometimes trying to push the fluid back to the reservoir on more sophisticated vehicles might cause issues.

Interesting. I do wonder why that'd be the case... ?
If my brakes ever do wear (ha!), I'll probably at least try without doing a bleed. But it's nice to know this might be the backup plan if I'm met with resistance.

Thanks!

 

[TheIglu]

Did mine tonight. 9v battery worked great with a 9" C clamp. No need to bleed the brake fluid, it'll push back into the reservoir without issue.

Left it in tire change mode, car wash, neutral with the door open. First side took almost an hour (searching for alligator clips) while the second side was 20 minutes, including jacking up the truck. Rotors and pads. $150 + a 9v. Done.

 

[SolartoEV]

Did mine tonight. 9v battery worked great with a 9" C clamp. No need to bleed the brake fluid, it'll push back into the reservoir without issue.

Left it in tire change mode, car wash, neutral with the door open. First side took almost an hour (searching for alligator clips) while the second side was 20 minutes, including jacking up the truck. Rotors and pads. $150 + a 9v. Done.

Rad.

 

[SolartoEV]

Did mine tonight. 9v battery worked great with a 9" C clamp. No need to bleed the brake fluid, it'll push back into the reservoir without issue.

Left it in tire change mode, car wash, neutral with the door open. First side took almost an hour (searching for alligator clips) while the second side was 20 minutes, including jacking up the truck. Rotors and pads. $150 + a 9v. Done.

Did you leave the caliper bracket on or remove it?

 

[TheIglu]

Loosened it on the first one, left the second one alone. Takes a little shimmying, but the rotor will come off without touching the bracket

 

[SolartoEV]

Loosened it on the first one, left the second one alone. Takes a little shimmying, but the rotor will come off without touching the bracket

Yep i figured that out as well. Glad somebody else could confirm it.

 

[TheIglu]

Now I'm thinking back in my head of all the vehicle brake jobs I've done that perhaps I could have left the caliper bracket on for.... Ah well.

No more grinding sound while driving slow or squeal from the wear indicators. Inside pad on both sides were next to nothing, while the outside pad still had plenty of life.

I'll do the fronts next, but I still have some time on those.

But of course, saw that my rear shocks gave up the ghost and leaked out their precious life fluid while I was back there. Another terrible drive to Chelsea is in order soon.

 

[Rivinator]

Awesome info, thanks! Why car wash mode? I get setting it to service and tire change mode to prevent ride height changes, but car wash mode only prevents charge port opening, or so I thought.

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