As a follow-up to my original post, the issue ended being the NFC reader built in to the door handle. They updated the firmware on it but that didn’t fix it so they ended up having to replace the door handle. The NFC cards have worked reliably since.
Oh that’s cool! I ended up buying a Yakima rooftop box to haul my T4+ as I plan to use the gear tunnel for my Camp Kitchen when it finally ships, but it’s great to know that’s an option as the bed just wasn’t going to work without going diagonal and making the rest of the bed pretty useless.
I remember reading an issue awhile back that the R1 did not work well for drive-ins because the infotainment system is all software-based and introduces significant audio delay to the processing of the FM tuner stream. The net result was movie audio significantly out-of-sync with the screen to...
Rivian has been delivering OTA updates every 4 weeks consistently all spring/summer pointing to a 4-week sprint development cycle. That should put the next one at 2022.35 (year.week number) with the updates being rolled out pretty reliably 3 weeks after the week # in the build name. That should...
If the Camp Speaker is unused for awhile it will get “really dead” and not charge from the dock. Put it on a USB-C charger for awhile to let it come back to life and it will work and charge properly in the dock again.
The Skybox 18 fits well on the R1T roof and is pretty slippery for aerodynamics with minimal range impact. The Skybox plus a kayak on the roof demolished efficiency though, down to about 1.7 mi/kWh at highway speed (but still fine for our trip).
There was a problem with the Skybox mounting...
Big yikes! If your electrician ran 10 AWG copper protected by a 50 amp breaker, you need a new electrician. That will burn your house down. You should be dialing the charge amps down to 24A in that case.
I use this one:
CircleCord UL Listed 50 Amp 50 Feet RV/EV Extension Cord, Heavy Duty 6/3+8/1 Gauge STW Wire with Cord Organizer and Storage Bag, NEMA 14-50P Plug Suit for EV Charging and RV Trailer Campers https://a.co/boNgzGy
The actual capability is 1500W continuous, and anecdotally very little surge capacity beyond that. A standard 120V/15A household outlet is 1800W, while a 120V/20A kitchen outlet is typically 2400W and both can momentarily surge quite a bit past that for loads like motor starts (air compressors...
A huge miss! Of all things to cheap out on, the price difference for a larger inverter would have been negligible on a truck this expensive. I would expect 120V/2400W (3600 surge), or a very solid 1800W as absolute bare minimum. 240V/30A (7.2kW) would be perfect!
I talked to a service advisor today about my tonneau issues, and he said they’re not even sending out replacement parts for them any more because the upgraded replacements are failing just as much. Expect a better fix soon.
I’d find it useful when the Camp Kitchen is removed. The middle of the Gear Tunnel is hard to reach and my current strategy to fetch things from there is to send the kids in.
I’ve driven with it down quite a few times on Home Depot runs. The most annoying aspect is that the rear view camera used in the display is in the tailgate itself and flipping it down renders it useless. There is another camera overlooking the bed, but you cannot access the video stream from it...