Charger for R1S

[mudito]

This is not always true.

A 6-50 outlet does not use a neutral wire, just 2 hots and a ground. So frequently electricians will not run a neutral wire when installing a 6-50 outlet. There is nothing improper about not running a neutral wire when installing an outlet that has no way to attach a neutral wire.

14-50 does require a neutral wire. So if they don't have a neutral wire, they cannot (easily) replace the 6-50 with a 14-50 outlet.

But most hardwired EV chargers, such as the Tesla Universal Charger, do not use a neutral wire. So the OP definitely has the wires needed to attach a hardwired charger. They may or may not have the wires required to install a 14-50 outlet.

... and most neutral wires are actually grounded so, if the wiring was up to code, you can still wire it in a way that a 14-50 will work properly for an EVSE, maybe not for a drier

(I wired both my Tesla Wall Connector and Rivian Wall Charger, plus a 14-50R at home myself)

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[mudito]

Oh cool, thanks for the info. All this while I was like "now I gotto rewire the whole thing for the Rivian".

I have 2 separate 50 amp breakers for each outlet.

That's awesome, 99.999% you have all you need there.

 

[PeterSK]

Oh cool, thanks for the info. All this while I was like "now I gotto rewire the whole thing for the Rivian".

I have 2 separate 50 amp breakers for each outlet.

You have all you need to install a Tesla Universal charger (TUWC), but you’ll have to set it to draw 40 rather than 48 amps (80% maximum for continuous loads). Still faster than a plug in charger at 32 amps, but not the max you can get out of the TUWC.

However if the wire you ran is the right gauge, you could upgrade the breaker to 60 amps and charge at 48 amps on the TUWC. Don’t ask me what gauge that is, I’ve forgotten the details.

 

[mudito]

You have all you need to install a Tesla Universal charger (TUWC), but you’ll have to set it to draw 40 rather than 48 amps (80% maximum for continuous loads). Still faster than a plug in charger at 32 amps, but not the max you can get out of the TUWC.

However if the wire you ran is the right gauge, you could upgrade the breaker to 60 amps and charge at 48 amps on the TUWC. Don’t ask me what gauge that is, I’ve forgotten the details.

6awg is what you need for that continuos 48 Amp load to meet all safety standards ?

 

[PeterSK]

6awg is what you need for that continuos 48 Amp load to meet all safety standards ?

But not if it’s Romex? I think that’s what tripped me up in a conversion from NEMA 14-50 to Tesla Universal. Had to leave it at 50A breaker and 40A max charging.

 

[mudito]

But not if it’s Romex? I think that’s what tripped me up in a conversion from NEMA 14-50 to Tesla Universal. Had to leave it at 50A breaker and 40A max charging.

I think it's independent of Romex or not... Solid Copper 6awg wire is rated for 55amps (temperature has slight variations, but let's forget that). So as long as that's what you have, you should be ok.

In THEORY (and I wouldn't recommend this) 8awg should be able to withstand the same amperage but it gets hotter and that's risky.

Insulation of 6awg should be enough for the maximum amperage capacity the code permits in order to be NEC compliant.

 

[SANZC02]

I think it's independent of Romex or not... Solid Copper 6awg wire is rated for 55amps (temperature has slight variations, but let's forget that). So as long as that's what you have, you should be ok.

In THEORY (and I wouldn't recommend this) 8awg should be able to withstand the same amperage but it gets hotter and that's risky.

Insulation of 6awg should be enough for the maximum amperage capacity the code permits in order to be NEC compliant.

Some codes will allow to put a 60 amp breaker because 55 amp breakers are rare on that circuit but I would not recommend it. At some point someone will assume it is now a 60 amp circuit when in fact it is only 55 amps and should not charge above 44 amps.

Really just not worth the risk for that 4 amp difference, especially in a region that could have hotter temperatures.

 

[Proxy]

Turn off the circuit breaker before removing any covers and/or touching any wires.

 

[beatle]

I think it's independent of Romex or not... Solid Copper 6awg wire is rated for 55amps (temperature has slight variations, but let's forget that). So as long as that's what you have, you should be ok.

In THEORY (and I wouldn't recommend this) 8awg should be able to withstand the same amperage but it gets hotter and that's risky.

Insulation of 6awg should be enough for the maximum amperage capacity the code permits in order to be NEC compliant.

You can run 6awg THHN in conduit and slap on a 60A breaker, but NM-B (Romex) should only have a 50A breaker. This is confusing since the individual conductors inside are THHN, but it's bundled which changes the rating. Note: I'm no elechicken, but I have 6/3 Romex on a 50A breaker.

 

[mudito]

You can run 6awg THHN in conduit and slap on a 60A breaker, but NM-B (Romex) should only have a 50A breaker. This is confusing since the individual conductors inside are THHN, but it's bundled which changes the rating. Note: I'm no elechicken, but I have 6/3 Romex on a 50A breaker.

True but... 6 NM cable is permitted on a 60 amp OCPD when the calculated load is 55 amps or less.

At least with the code in my city... ?

 

[beatle]

True but... 6 NM cable is permitted on a 60 amp OCPD when the calculated load is 55 amps or less.

At least with the code in my city... ?

True, as long as the load is not continuous, then it needs to be 125% of the rating (EVSEs are considered continuous). You could pull 44A and be compliant, but a lot of EVSEs don't allow that adjustment. My Tesla UWC makes me choose 40A or 40A.

Where a branch circuit supplies continuous loads or any combination of continuous and noncontinuous loads, the minimum branch-circuit conductor size shall have an ampacity not less than the noncontinuous load plus 125 percent of the continuous load in accordance with 310.14.

https://up.codes/s/conductors-minimum-ampacity-and-size

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