Console Puck Charger cavity tray

[Kacey3]

Appreciate the insight!

I was afraid of that, but not surprised. I need to learn patience, add some time to my day, and iterate

Hopefully one day we'll have some better tech so we can convert real-world-to-CAD faster (I'm sure machine learning and AI will help with that).

Also, in case it wasn't clear: thanks for the effort and sharing your files. It's very appreciated around here. Quite a few of this forum's...uh..'sponsors' are 3d print farms who won't share their models, then charge (in my opinion) outrageous prices for anistropic prints.

At my work, I have access to a couple of decent 3D scanners of varying quality, and all of them still make an object that looks akin to having been sculpted out of clay with spoons.

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[GA_Rivian]

@Polar Looks good. That's about the point mine pried up the bed...

Hopefully one day we'll have some better tech so we can convert real-world-to-CAD faster (I'm sure machine learning and AI will help with that).

I put this off knowing I'd burn through filament, also thinking I couldn't get it close enough. One reason I wanted to use nylon originally was I figured I could deform it to fit the last mm.

I've wondered about a scanner but most things I would scan I want to modify. Until the scanners convert points to useful geometric constructs it doesn't seem worth it .

...Quite a few of this forum's...uh..'sponsors' are 3d print farms who won't share their models, then charge (in my opinion) outrageous prices for anistropic prints.

I've wondered about the farms. I suspect the number of people who would print their own compared to those who want something "perfect" made with more durable materials and don't have the time is pretty small. Some might even improve the designs and give them back and you could have a better product. I printed a few things from this forum for people who didn't have printers and they all offered to pay me (I declined); most people are appreciative. I've gotten huge amounts of useful information here. What goes around comes around.

What do you mean by an anisotropic print -- non symmetric / not really fitting when it should be, or the actual anisotropic properties resulting from FFF printing (really frustrating)?

 

[R1Thor]

@Polar Looks good. That's about the point mine pried up the bed...


I put this off knowing I'd burn through filament, also thinking I couldn't get it close enough. One reason I wanted to use nylon originally was I figured I could deform it to fit the last mm.

I've wondered about a scanner but most things I would scan I want to modify. Until the scanners convert points to useful geometric constructs it doesn't seem worth it .


I've wondered about the farms. I suspect the number of people who would print their own compared to those who want something "perfect" made with more durable materials and don't have the time is pretty small. Some might even improve the designs and give them back and you could have a better product. I printed a few things from this forum for people who didn't have printers and they all offered to pay me (I declined); most people are appreciative. I've gotten huge amounts of useful information here. What goes around comes around.

What do you mean by an anisotropic print -- non symmetric / not really fitting when it should be, or the actual anisotropic properties resulting from FFF printing (really frustrating)?

Anistropic meaning not isotropic.

FDM printing (and even SLA to an extent--though most of the prints here are FDM for sure) are only technically 'strong' in 2 directions. If printed in the correct orientations, this is somewhat overcome-able, but it's still non idealized over time in environmental conditions.

If someone were using something more akin to a MultiJet Fusion or SLS-style (FormLabs Fuse1) then the cost of these would be perfectly placed.

But I'm not paying someone a significant amount of money for ASA or ABS prints. Not only are they not...strong, but they don't look very good when you actually start noticing the layer lines, the stitching lines... we paid how much for a truck to put something kinda gnarly in it? I'm OK with the idea of having 3d prints in the truck--I have some. But *I* made them and paid all of what the material cost, ya know?

Just my principles. Nothing I'm mad about anyone else procuring for themselves

 

[Polar]

Couldn’t have printed better…

now to wrangle it into place while keeping it in one piece ?

 

[Polar]

- Would Print Again @GA_Rivian

 

[GA_Rivian]

Couldn’t have printed better…

Awesome! Looks like it fits? does it? Thanks for being a guinea pig.

 

[GA_Rivian]

Anistropic meaning not isotropic.

Thought that's what you meant. Yeah, an SLS machine would be nice for just that reason.

 

[Polar]

Thought that's what you meant. Yeah, an SLS machine would be nice for just that reason.

Fits well - front lip could be maybe 1mm further out to sit flush, but no noticeable gap.

This easy nylon printed great - very surprised.

260 nozzle/65 bed

Slow first layer; 15mm
Rest at 25mm

Small 2mm brim - likely unnecessary

 

[GA_Rivian]

Fits well - front lip could be maybe 1mm further out to sit flush, but no noticeable gap.

That's the curve that caused me a lot of trouble. Tweaking it is a nightmare, or at least it is for me. If it's ~1mm short all the way around, making the rectangular part of the bottom 1mm longer might snug it up and leave the curve as is.

A different / additional fix would be to make the upper lip wider all around to cover it up. The top rim profile is not flat on the bottom. On the underside it gradually rises; the idea was to be able to print it without supports, at least with a 0.8mm nozzle; it's also stronger. However, that limits how wide it can be, and it means it doesn't really lay flat. It should probably be made 1-2mm wider and flat but with a small fillet or 45 degree chamfer, and printed with supports as you did.

I will take a closer look at mine.

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