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Brewbud

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Not once after installing it.
Thanks. That is surprising. My Rivian wall charger is still sitting on a shelf. I am charging using my receptacle that was installed for my welder. I have the truck set at 24A though. I think I will move up the time table for my install.
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EVTrukHog

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This is a timely post. I've been temporarily using a 10-30R outlet coupled with a 14-50 adapter and RV 14-50 extension cord on the portable Rivian charger... been dialing the truck down to only 24 amps but never felt confident in this as a long term solution. This video just confirms that.

I had my wall charger installed last night on a 60 amp circuit. Feel better already.

Rivian R1T R1S EV Charger Risks: Home Charging Installation Risks and Advice - by Munro Live Rivian Charger 1
 

Boomkanani

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This is VERY IMPORTANT.

3 years ago, I had 2 240 drops in the garage off their own panel from a local and reputable electrician. They were plug-in 14-50s vs. hardwired so I could be flexible with the chargers we bought (since we figured they would improve dramatically over time).

Abut 15 months later, I smelled burning plastic while the i3 was charging.

Here is the result.

B41D9D6F-884A-43CC-804F-58171C7D52F7.jpeg


52C8E8A8-E1DC-4880-9A3E-6A12C31E0600.jpeg
Looks like it says it's rated for 30A. Something a lot of people over look is the connection hardware...see it on aircraft a lot were the terminal lugs/splices/connectors aren't rated for higher amps. That's the difference between household/commercial/industrial....its just different ranges. To me household/commercial/industrial is all a distraction....the numbers won't deceive you.
 

Marchin_MTB

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I just bought the Hubbel 50A industrial receptacle. I’ll tell the electrician that if he has something rated higher, he can use it, otherwise please go with this.
 
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I'd put money on almost all of these overheating problems being due to the terminals on the 14-50 plug not being torqued correctly. I usually torque them super tight beyond spec, twist and push the plug into its final location (hard to do with 6ga copper even in a dual gang box), pull it back out and torque the terminals a 2nd time.

The terminals always need tightening again in my experience. Copper 6ga is about 8 individual wires twisted together so the final pushing and situating the plug into the box very often loosens things a little.

This Summer in SC with ambient 95F inside the garage and charging at 48a I was testing the nema 14-50 at about 125F, 60a breaker at about 130F, cable at about 120F.

All within operating spec for the plug which is rated 50a at 140F.

Now, I almost never charge at 48a because I don't need to. Usually it's 40a or less and the temps are mush, much lower.

Poor connections create heat, rv extension cords create heat, long length of cable (distance from breaker panel) creates heat. Keep your connections super tight and the cable lengths as short as possible. And if you can keep the door on your breaker panel cracked open I've tested an almost 10F temperature drop in breaker temperature.
 

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My Tesla always complained my 14-50 outlet was getting too hot and it would lower the charging speed. Had an electrician hardwire my charge point flex in when I got it. Electrician showed me the new 60 amp breaker, the new wiring and how he wired it to the EV charger. So I'm pretty confident he did everything correctly.
 

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Do anyone has issues of 3-5 miles per hour with rivian home charger.
How do you reset this
 

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Do anyone has issues of 3-5 miles per hour with rivian home charger.
How do you reset this
If you just got your truck.. .it needs to "figure out" the miles/hour rate. When I first plugged my R1T into my 32amp Juicebox the App and truck both displayed "4miles/hr"charge rate but then corrected to the accurate "16mi/hour" charge rate indicated a couple of hours later.
 

Donald Stanfield

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Scary, and don’t let an electrician convince you to use 6 AWG Romex wire if you want to charge at 48 amps. 8 out of 10 licensed electricians agree, I got one of the other 2.
You know they have the stuff that's rated at 90C right?
 

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You know they have the stuff that's rated at 90C right?
Not fully sure I follow what you're suggesting. Romex is rated for 90C temps but the ampacity must be treated as if rated for 60C. There are non-Romex options, such as THHN in conduit, that meet code for a 48A charger on a 60A breaker.
 

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opnwide

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Not fully sure I follow what you're suggesting. Romex is rated for 90C temps but the ampacity must be treated as if rated for 60C. There are non-Romex options, such as THHN in conduit, that meet code for a 48A charger on a 60A breaker.
100 agree. Hey electruck, while I have your attention, do you see anything against code by using 6/2 NM-B Romex on a 60 amp breaker as long as the dip switches in the EVSE are set to 40amp and the settings on the EV are also set to charge at 40amps? (Not 48) Does code say one has to change out the 60amp breaker to 50amp? i.e. short tripping issues?
 

electruck

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100 agree. Hey electruck, while I have your attention, do you see anything against code by using 6/2 NM-B Romex on a 60 amp breaker as long as the dip switches in the EVSE are set to 40amp and the settings on the EV are also set to charge at 40amps? (Not 48) Does code say one has to change out the 60amp breaker to 50amp? i.e. short tripping issues?
I'm not well versed enough on electrical code to feel comfortable giving a definitive answer on that but I'll give you my rather conservative personal opinion on the matter anyway. In my opinion, you would need to swap in a 50A breaker. I will say that there have been some gaps in code around EVSE that they are slowly trying to tighten up (things such as ensuring the consumer can't change the EVSE setting to exceed circuit limits). Given that, I would think it would be in the spirit of NEC to require changing to a 50A breaker in that scenario as someone not-in-the-know might make a bad assumption about the wiring based on the breaker rating. Whether or not your local inspector would pass the 60A breaker, it would be safest to ensure wiring, breaker, and EVSE setting are all consistent. Personally, if I were to sell my house, I know I wouldn't want to leave the 60A breaker behind for an unsuspecting future owner. Take all that FWIW and then consult a licensed electrician. :)
 

opnwide

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I'm not well versed enough on electrical code to feel comfortable giving a definitive answer on that but I'll give you my rather conservative personal opinion on the matter anyway. In my opinion, you would need to swap in a 50A breaker. I will say that there have been some gaps in code around EVSE that they are slowly trying to tighten up (things such as ensuring the consumer can't change the EVSE setting to exceed circuit limits). Given that, I would think it would be in the spirit of NEC to require changing to a 50A breaker in that scenario as someone not-in-the-know might make a bad assumption about the wiring based on the breaker rating. Whether or not your local inspector would pass the 60A breaker, it would be safest to ensure wiring, breaker, and EVSE setting are all consistent. Personally, if I were to sell my house, I know I wouldn't want to leave the 60A breaker behind for an unsuspecting future owner. Take all that FWIW and then consult a licensed electrician. :)
Very good. Much appreciated reply.
 

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Not fully sure I follow what you're suggesting. Romex is rated for 90C temps but the ampacity must be treated as if rated for 60C. There are non-Romex options, such as THHN in conduit, that meet code for a 48A charger on a 60A breaker.
I'm not an electrician, but if the code for sizing says it can run 48A if the wire is rated for 90C I can't really see the difference. Again, I'm not an electrician but I did have a licensed electrician tell me it was fine.
 

opnwide

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I'm not an electrician, but if the code for sizing says it can run 48A if the wire is rated for 90C I can't really see the difference. Again, I'm not an electrician but I did have a licensed electrician tell me it was fine.
Skip ahead to 11:36 in this video by Tom Moloughney….
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