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R2 120V Outlet experiences?

Dark-Fx

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We were considering taking our camper out with the R2 this weekend. I decided to see if it'd actually be able to power the camper at all. I know our R1's struggled with it enough that I ended up not bothering. Our Sierra EV's inverter is so much stronger here that it was kind of stupid to even try anything else.

Our setup in the camper has a Victron Multiplus II 48V/5000VA inverter. It's minimum 120V input setting is 10.9A. My R2 keeps kicking off the outlets. At first it took a little bit of time, but now I only get a few seconds before it kicks off. Shows off in the car and no output at the camper. The 1900W written onto the outlet sits there mocking me. 1300W is significantly less. I'm hoping there's a chance the field outlet might be able to take up the slack here, but I'm not confident, and it greatly complicates being able to both charge the car and use the outlet (which some people said wasn't possible, but they were wrong. See below. Charging limited to 32A while the 120V outlet is on)

I also tried using my mitre saw off the outlet. It slow starts for about a half second before the outlet gets disabled. Again, something I can run without issue on my Sierra.

I guess my next step is probably just getting an adjustable 120V ->48VDC charger and bumping that up until just before it shuts the R2 off.
Rivian R1T R1S R2 120V Outlet experiences? 1785443461638-t9
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Just Passing By

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Interesting. I guess the onboard inverter is not liking the miter saw inrush current spike, so is the Victron a similar surge load, it seems so from your tests? Have you tried the outlet with other loads? I'm guessing other surge loads like mains powered air compressors and vacuums may have a similar issue, so perhaps a 1500/1800W fan heater to see if a hopefully more purely resistive load might get closer to the plug stated output. I looked but didn't see any specification in the R2 manual for the outlet.

It will be disappointing if this is an area where Rivian have trimmed costs with a relatively weak inverter. If so then for me I guess the solution would be getting a portable power station that can hopefully charge reliably from either 12V or 120V outlets and use that as a buffer into everything else, but it shouldn't be necessary if that's what it takes.
 

twisted2769

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The r2 can provide 11kw AC for v2l. Are they using a different inverter for the internal outlet? Seems like a waste of cost to have multiple inverters.
 

KBabione

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The 1900W written onto the outlet sits there mocking me.
This makes me sad...I was hoping to go to 1800W without worrying with the R2 (like my Bluetti AC-180 that I currently use as a "buffer" with our 1500W-limited R1S). The V2L adapter that they've shown might be an option for camping when it's just us walking around the vehicle, but I'd be scared to death to have that sticking out of the charge port at a tailgate when hundreds of people (many of whom are well-lubricated) walk past our car.

We just got our R2 VIN yesterday so we should be taking delivery in the next couple weeks - If I head to the Rivian space before then maybe I'll take one of my wife's 1600W hair dryers and see what happens...
 

Jeremy3292

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The miter saw makes sense, in rush current is too high for that outlet.

The AC charging speed reduction makes sense also, 48 amps down to 32 amps bc the outlet is 16 amps max. The outlet uses the same AC inverter.

However, not being able to charge your camper inverter doesn't make sense.
 

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Our 120v died using a 60w Bouge RV fridge/freezer. Took me a while to get it in for service, so in the meantime i just plugged the fridge into the 12v (which is more efficient anyway). Finally got it fixed last week, but. Have no idea whether the replacement inverter is more robust. Anyone else had experience with a recently replaced inverter?
 

Count Orlok

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The Count hangs onto his F150h just for the 240v 30amp outlet.

You could get a Yoshino B4000. That's what The Count uses.
 
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Dark-Fx

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However, not being able to charge your camper inverter doesn't make sense.
I keep it in Weak AC mode, which does something funny to the power factor and that might be the cause of it eventually tripping. I didn't have a chance to test turning that off, it's a little cumbersome to do.
 

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Isn't this why they make soft start devices for trailers? Startup current on a/c units is like 10 times the steady state draw. So chances are you're exceeding the R2 outlet rating by quite a bit.
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