Teardown: R1S Audio Unit under drivers seat and speaker harness pinnout.

[redantpile]

Hmm, ok then where are the inputs prior to the amp?

It's a digital buss type system as far as I know. Like A2B. It saves weight and other advantages. There are some adapters out there, but they are specific to each vehicle. Like this one.

https://navtv.com/products/NTV-KIT873/zen-a2b.html

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[Cencal2023]

I might be modifying some of the speakers so here is the harness layout if anyone needs it. I unbolted the drivers seat but did not need to remove it or even unplug it's harness. Torque wrench showed about 45-50 ft-lbs to break the 15 mm bolts loose. The seat feet have lineup pins pointing down so I would put some lumber down to protect the carpet.

I thinks it's a A2B type audio setup, but that's just a guess. I thought I remember years back Rivian had job listings with A2B experience.

I'm stumped on the center channel is setup. It sounds and meters like two speakers right next to each other. If anyone has seen that center speaker setup or knows, that would be great.

Also you can put the seat back without the plastic cover. Then you can still access all of the wires from the front, and put the cover & seat back again on until you are finished.

******Harness drawing updated 7/16/22*******
******edit 8/11/2023. After testing the subwoofer pins with a meter and tone generator, I can only make one conclusion. Both the center channel speaker and subwoofer are dual voice coil, and both have a mono signal playing over each pair of wires. ********

I’ve done this in lower pocket in lower

 

[Cencal2023]

Hmm, ok then where are the inputs prior to the amp?

At the amp plug furthest right

 

[kcsly]

So, I did an unconventional sub, but pretty happy with results so far, been two weeks now. Great foundation below 60hz now, esp above volumes of 15, really keeps up and the low end doesn’t get lost or distort.

I plugged in an Svs 3000micro, right to the aux 110v, tapped into the subwoofer speaker levels at the rear and converted them to line level with a passive loc and fed to sub. So minimal intrusion into vehicle Electricals and I really didn’t want to touch the 12v circuit as a primary goal. The upside is 110v is powered by main battery bank in car so it is endless for my needs, downside with current software is that I do need to remember to turn on the aux 110v outlet every three days, as that is the longest you can turn it on. That hasn’t bothered me much as if Iever forget to turn it on, the lack of low end is obvious to me so I flip it on.

I secured the sub down with a custom wood panel with speaker carpeting and two fake 8” speaker grills to let the air move from the sub to the cabin.

I went with Svs micro as it is tiny for 800w rms, and the Svs app has endless equalization options and customization that allowed me to really dial in the blending to rest of system and flatten the response, while sitting in the drivers seat.

Overall very happy with the results.

considering going this way. The speaker level output, violet/black, violet/white ( I believe), which is the negative and which is the positive?

 

[Deezy510]

At the amp plug furthest right

After following these very helpful posts - now that I am post-installation, I am noticing using factory sub wires to an LOC provides a heavily filtered signal that I strongly dislike. It completely filters out the upper low to lower mid range that is very important.

I ran a test today by running a set loose speaker wire to the LOC and tapped into the drivers rear door signal and the results are night and day! I can hear the frequencies in the sub that were previous missing. (I am using an LC2 LOC)

I feel that tapping into the pre amp signal would provide a much better singal. Any information on which color wires on the right connector (passenger side) would be helpful.

The pin out schematic I used in previous post is attached but does not reference an incoming signal.

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