It's a digital buss type system as far as I know. Like A2B. It saves weight and other advantages. There are some adapters out there, but they are specific to each vehicle. Like this one.
I’ve done this in lower pocket in lowerI might be modifying some of the speakers so here is the harness layout if anyone needs it. I unbolted the drivers seat but did not need to remove it or even unplug it's harness. Torque wrench showed about 45-50 ft-lbs to break the 15 mm bolts loose. The seat feet have lineup pins pointing down so I would put some lumber down to protect the carpet.
I thinks it's a A2B type audio setup, but that's just a guess. I thought I remember years back Rivian had job listings with A2B experience.
I'm stumped on the center channel is setup. It sounds and meters like two speakers right next to each other. If anyone has seen that center speaker setup or knows, that would be great.
Also you can put the seat back without the plastic cover. Then you can still access all of the wires from the front, and put the cover & seat back again on until you are finished.
******Harness drawing updated 7/16/22*******
******edit 8/11/2023. After testing the subwoofer pins with a meter and tone generator, I can only make one conclusion. Both the center channel speaker and subwoofer are dual voice coil, and both have a mono signal playing over each pair of wires. ********
At the amp plug furthest right
considering going this way. The speaker level output, violet/black, violet/white ( I believe), which is the negative and which is the positive?So, I did an unconventional sub, but pretty happy with results so far, been two weeks now. Great foundation below 60hz now, esp above volumes of 15, really keeps up and the low end doesn’t get lost or distort.
I plugged in an Svs 3000micro, right to the aux 110v, tapped into the subwoofer speaker levels at the rear and converted them to line level with a passive loc and fed to sub. So minimal intrusion into vehicle Electricals and I really didn’t want to touch the 12v circuit as a primary goal. The upside is 110v is powered by main battery bank in car so it is endless for my needs, downside with current software is that I do need to remember to turn on the aux 110v outlet every three days, as that is the longest you can turn it on. That hasn’t bothered me much as if Iever forget to turn it on, the lack of low end is obvious to me so I flip it on.
I secured the sub down with a custom wood panel with speaker carpeting and two fake 8” speaker grills to let the air move from the sub to the cabin.
I went with Svs micro as it is tiny for 800w rms, and the Svs app has endless equalization options and customization that allowed me to really dial in the blending to rest of system and flatten the response, while sitting in the drivers seat.
Overall very happy with the results.
After following these very helpful posts - now that I am post-installation, I am noticing using factory sub wires to an LOC provides a heavily filtered signal that I strongly dislike. It completely filters out the upper low to lower mid range that is very important.
I’m working on wiring an amplifier for a sub and trying to figure out which wires I can use for high level inputs. I see the black and red wires that power the sub (wrapped in foam) and I also see a 4 wire connector at the bottom of the stock sub enclosure. Which one of these would be best to use for the amplifier signal?
I did not verify this on the sub, but I think either pair carries the same signal(mono). The center channel on the dash was the same way and was a mono signal. I used all four as input for my amp. One pair left and one pair right input. The red and black are the same speaker wires. They should be routed to the back side of the connector you show in yellow. If I'm remembering correctly that is. The audio unit powers the sub from under the seat.I’m working on wiring an amplifier for a sub and trying to figure out which wires I can use for high level inputs. I see the black and red wires that power the sub (wrapped in foam) and I also see a 4 wire connector at the bottom of the stock sub enclosure. Which one of these would be best to use for the amplifier signal?
I will use the wires in the yellow. Not seeing where the wires on the back of the connector confused me. Thanks for the info!I did not verify this on the sub, but I think either pair carries the same signal(mono). The center channel on the dash was the same way and was a mono signal. I used all four as input for my amp. One pair left and one pair right input. The red and black are the same speaker wires. They should be routed to the back side of the connector you show in yellow. If I'm remembering correctly that is. The audio unit powers the sub from under the seat.
I had to revive my account so I could get in on this. This info isn't easy to find.
Not sure if I understand your question. You can access all of the speaker wires leaving the factory amp under the seat. There is no "line in", preamp level signal. For example, I grabbed the sub speaker outputs and sent them to a new amp, and modified the door and dash factory speaker signal. So those were out of the factory amp, into the circuit board/capacitor that I added, and back into the factory harness going to those speakers.
It's just speaker out, one pair for each speaker for most of them. So the box under the seat is the multi channel amplifier that receives a digital signal from some other computer box, in the dash I guess. So you have to use speaker level for any amp you want to add. Does that make sense?
Yeah so I see what you mean here. But I think our difference is that I'm trying to run an amp to a sub and an amp to the door speakers. If you run an amp to a sub that's easy. You connect your own speaker wires to your new sub. But if you want to connect an amp to door speakers it's another story because all you got (pre-ran wire wise) is the stock amp out to doors. Which you're using for your LOC to amp to begin with so I don't think you can tap in after the fact, with an aftermarket amp, without cutting those wires.
