Teardown: R1S Audio Unit under drivers seat and speaker harness pinnout.

[redantpile]

I might be modifying some of the speakers so here is the harness layout if anyone needs it. I unbolted the drivers seat but did not need to remove it or even unplug it's harness. Torque wrench showed about 45-50 ft-lbs to break the 15 mm bolts loose. The seat feet have lineup pins pointing down so I would put some lumber down to protect the carpet.

I thinks it's a A2B type audio setup, but that's just a guess. I thought I remember years back Rivian had job listings with A2B experience.

I'm stumped on the center channel is setup. It sounds and meters like two speakers right next to each other. If anyone has seen that center speaker setup or knows, that would be great.

Also you can put the seat back without the plastic cover. Then you can still access all of the wires from the front, and put the cover & seat back again on until you are finished.

******Harness drawing updated 7/16/22*******
******edit 8/11/2023. After testing the subwoofer pins with a meter and tone generator, I can only make one conclusion. Both the center channel speaker and subwoofer are dual voice coil, and both have a mono signal playing over each pair of wires. ********

Sponsored

 

[Vaejoviscarolinanus]

Is this the Meridian system or the new one?

 

[jpmc86]

Nice work - love the torque reading.

Is this the Meridian sound system?

 

[redantpile]

It's the new one. Some of the speakers still have a Meridian label on the driver itself.

 

[twraps]

I might be modifying some of the speakers so here is the harness layout if anyone needs it. I unbolted the drivers seat but did not need to remove it or even unplug it's harness. Torque wrench showed about 45-50 ft-lbs to break the 15 mm bolts loose. The seat feet have lineup pins pointing down so I would put some lumber down to protect the carpet.

I thinks it's a A2B type audio setup, but that's just a guess. I thought I remember years back Rivian had job listings with A2B experience.

I'm stumped on the center channel is setup. It sounds and meters like two speakers right next to each other. If anyone has seen that center speaker setup or knows, that would be great.

Also you can put the seat back without the plastic cover. Then you can still access all of the wires from the front, and put the cover & seat back again on until you are finished.

I owe you a beer!!! Thanks to your pictures, I retracted my driver seat all the way back and up, and I was able to lift up the plastic cover just enough to see the cables. Turns out that my issue of only having sound from the front dash speaker was due to someone in the factory not plugging one of the cables all the way in. I pushed it in and now I have awesome audio!
Now it's time to fix the rattles that came up with the availability of sub

Thank you!!!!!!!!! You saved me a SC visit!!!!!

 

[redantpile]

I owe you a beer!!! Thanks to your pictures, I retracted my driver seat all the way back and up, and I was able to lift up the plastic cover just enough to see the cables. Turns out that my issue of only having sound from the front dash speaker was due to someone in the factory not plugging one of the cables all the way in. I pushed it in and now I have awesome audio!
Now it's time to fix the rattles that came up with the availability of sub

Thank you!!!!!!!!! You saved me a SC visit!!!!!

Cool. Glad that worked out well.

 

[SeaRivianR1s]

Hi, do you know why there are two sets of subwoofer outs, violet black and violet white in the harness? I thought there was only one subwoofer. I’m trying to tap that for speaker level signal for a two jl audio power wedges I plan to add to my R1S, next to the spare tire. Can send pics after install.

 

[redantpile]

Hi, do you know why there are two sets of subwoofer outs, violet black and violet white in the harness? I thought there was only one subwoofer. I’m trying to tap that for speaker level signal for a two jl audio power wedges I plan to add to my R1S, next to the spare tire. Can send pics after install.

I think they just doubled up on the gauge because of the extra power. At the other connector on the subwoofer, all four wires are present. I did not verify with a meter but looks like each pair is shorted to the other.

Yes love to see the install. I was going to build my own box and use this sub. Just have not done it yet.

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_13692083/JL-Audio-12W1v3-4.html

 

[SeaRivianR1s]

Awesome, thanks so much for that. In your opinion is it lesser work to tap under the driver seat, or to tap close to the subwoofer? There are pros and cons as distance to run tap will be larger from front seat, but if removal of rear panels to get to subwoofer is more challenging might consider that.
To reduce custom work, I was going to put a pair of these powered subs under the floor cover next to spare.

https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_13693335/JL-Audio-ACS112LG-TW1.html?tp=114

Rough dimensions seem like it would fit. I’m yet to get my R1S, so can’t measure, have vin so hoping couple of weeks

Ive done custom subs in previous cars -images are from Porsche macan under trunk, but given this is electric I’m a bit leery of tapping into power. I was thinking getting a 110v to 12v power supply (1200watts supply, read max 110v Rivian can support is 1500watts) and using that to power the JLs. Let me know if you had any diff ideas. I’m based in Seattle.

12V 100A 1200W DC Switching Power Supply https://a.co/d/d3OaH8B

 

[redantpile]

Awesome, thanks so much for that. In your opinion is it lesser work to tap under the driver seat, or to tap close to the subwoofer? There are pros and cons as distance to run tap will be larger from front seat, but if removal of rear panels to get to subwoofer is more challenging might consider that.
To reduce custom work, I was going to put a pair of these powered subs under the floor cover next to spare.

https://www.crutchfield.com/I-rESTcVSL/p_13693335/JL-Audio-ACS112LG-TW1.html?tp=114

Rough dimensions seem like it would fit. I’m yet to get my R1S, so can’t measure, have vin so hoping couple of weeks

Ive done custom subs in previous cars -images are from Porsche macan under trunk, but given this is electric I’m a bit leery of tapping into power. I was thinking getting a 110v to 12v power supply (1200watts supply, read max 110v Rivian can support is 1500watts) and using that to power the JLs. Let me know if you had any diff ideas. I’m based in Seattle.

12V 100A 1200W DC Switching Power Supply https://a.co/d/d3OaH8B

Yes, I looked at that box as well. It probably performs well. I don't have the spare so I can't speak to the amount of space. It might fit with a spare somewhere. Maybe on top.

Power is the problem. If you just use one sub, there is a 35 amp circuit for the 12 volt trailer supply, and it's present behind the felt in the spare tire tub. The 110 volt circuit would be great since it comes straight off the battery. The problem is it's switched. You would have to turn on the outlets to power the amp. Unless that's not correct. I did not measure the voltage at the 110v connector (behind the outlet), I'm just assuming it's only hot when the outlets are on, just like the air compressors. Someone else may verify.

I'm hoping someone else will be the guinea pig and wire something like a 80-100 amp circuit directly to the battery, so we can see if the 12v charging system can handle the extra draw from the battery. Like 4 hours of pulling 40 amps for example.

This is a little crazy right. It was easy with ICE vehicles to add amplifiers.



If you have not seen these threads, and a sketch attached of the battery terminal layout.

Page 4, I added info.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...h-aftermarket-alpine-swr-t10-subwoofer.14310/

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/120v-inverter-teardown.17184/

Page 7, I added info

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/removal-of-frunk-tub-front-trunk-diy-how-to-pics.4676/

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...rious-wiring-pinnouts-compressor-panel.16854/

 

[SeaRivianR1s]

Thanks!! Will dig in.

 

[sac602]

How about some updates PEOPLE! Im looking at doing one of these spare tire subwoofers but trying to figure out power. You all running directly from battery or tapping into something in the back?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0861JBRKC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A66MBWMVVRUO1&th=1

 

[Willyspu]

Is the any type of AUX-in or a way to add a SiriusXM receiver?

 

[SeaRivianR1s]

Posted my current audio settings, pretty happy with sound quality except for the Sub.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/threads/best-stereo-sound-settings-post-yours.19010/post-397100

My current thought for adding a Sub is a bit of a hack, but should work. I’m thinking of adding a home Sub that runs off regular AC, SVS 3000, and just plug it into the 110 outlet, tap from the amplifier Sub out, speaker level, below the seat for signal. I’ll need to go turn on the outlet manually every time I want to use the sub, which is not ideal, but I’ll live with that as I’m not sure about messing with 12V circuit, adding fuses etc. I am generally a fan of SVS subwoofers and this micro 3000 is especially small and will fit in below the trunk floor in place of the spare tire with a lot of room to spare. It is 800 W RMS with dual eight inch woofers, so it should have plenty of power and SVS has a very nice iPhone app where you can equalize the sub response. If any of you think of reasons why this wouldn’t work, let me know.

SVS 3000 Micro Sealed Subwoofer with Fully Active Dual 8-inch Drivers (Piano Gloss Black) https://a.co/d/1LffG42

 

[redantpile]

How about some updates PEOPLE! Im looking at doing one of these spare tire subwoofers but trying to figure out power. You all running directly from battery or tapping into something in the back?
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0861JBRKC/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A66MBWMVVRUO1&th=1

I have been running an upgrade for a few weeks with no 12 volt issues so far. I used the trailer battery pink wire in the tub and put a 30 amp fuse there for both amp and trailer. The fuse panel should be 35 amp.

See pink wire here.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-pinnouts-compressor-panel.16854/#post-396798



I'm still playing with the bass but so far it's been great. I might even try a 10" sub instead in the future. The 12" might be overkill when matched with this system.

I also built a Lpad circuit board for the 6 dash channels. For me the tweeter assault coming from the dash is way too much. You can move the fader back, but the problem with that is now you are attenuating the front door speakers. It reduces the volume maybe by one third. It's supposed to be a 10db reduction. I am very happy with is modification. Now I hear even volume form front, side and rear. The picture is where I have the fader now and the dot is about where it was before. The board will fit under the plastic cover when I put it back.

I should have the amp remote level placed somewhere soon.

Sponsored