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CommodoreAmiga

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Can anyone explain that in technical terms? I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around how a limited-diameter hose could cause 50% loss of pressure from pump nozzle to tire nozzle. That just doesn't seem to follow the laws of physics to my uneducated brain.
I'm not an expert in this field, but I was also interested... A google search gave me this -- maybe you'll find it interesting, as well:

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/pressure-drop-compressed-air-pipes-d_852.html
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Inkedsphynx

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CommodoreAmiga

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It doesn't look to me based on that information that 50% is a reasonable assumption for the use case here, even at 20+ft of hose, given the small diameter? Maybe I'm interpreting this wrong... admittedly not going to do the actual math :D
(not an expert) I agree, it didn't seem even close to that scale.
 

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trez63

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Hey Nermal, it is expected. 120V x 20A = 2400W x 0.8 which is 1.92kW/hr so it is accurate. It's also a beefy truck so you can't compare the miles/hr you'll get on a 120V outlet to other EVs which are more efficient.
Best I've gotten so far was 1.2KW/hr with the 120V charger. About 20 miles added over night. Pathetic obviously. I get my 240V/60A charger installed today/tomorrow and very much looking forward to it.
 

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Heres one for my fellow owners to test when they get time. Have a weird issue where the truck wont start charging again after a completed charge session. Here are my specifics: Set charging limit to 85% and allow vehicle to complete the charge. Go out and now set charge to 100% and vehicle should start charging for about 5-10 seconds and then stops charging saying charge complete.

I tried unplugging and replugging, backed down my driveway and back to the charger but nothing would make it start charging again to continue on to 100%. Not sure if bug or something else but I'm going to try again tomorrow to see if I can replicate.
 

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It doesn't look to me based on that information that 50% is a reasonable assumption for the use case here, even at 20+ft of hose, given the small diameter? Maybe I'm interpreting this wrong... admittedly not going to do the actual math :D
Observationally for this system it's easily more than a 10% drop. When the tire you're filling is 40psi, the setpoint needs to be over 50 psi to allow it to put more than a pulse worth of air into the tire. If you are trying to fill something to 10 PSI the setpoint will likely have to be so high to be potentially unsafe if it doesn't act like expected.

If you are measuring pressure before your smallest restriction, you're going to have a significant pressure drop on the other side if you have significant amount of flow.
 

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Observationally for this system it's easily more than a 10% drop. When the tire you're filling is 40psi, the setpoint needs to be over 50 psi to allow it to put more than a pulse worth of air into the tire. If you are trying to fill something to 10 PSI the setpoint will likely have to be so high to be potentially unsafe if it doesn't act like expected.

If you are measuring pressure before your smallest restriction, you're going to have a significant pressure drop on the other side if you have significant amount of flow.
Honestly this probably explains why I assumed my compressor was broken. When I had to put the spare on the pressure in the spare was 4-5 psi low. Having a similar compressor from Dewalt that you just set to the set pressure and it does the job I assumed the R1T should be the same.

I will have to try and deflate my tire down to 30 and test again.
 

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It's not. Depending on your flow rate it could easily be over a 50% difference, even a 20 foot hose like what the Rivian has. Especially if your hose has less restriction than earlier parts of the system.
That's flow rate, not pressure, which is largely irrelevant to measuring pressure - if the compressor is off, measured pressure at each end of a 20' pneumatic hose will be within a couple PSI of each other (eventually converging given enough time to reach equilibrium). Using flow rate to govern fill times is not ideal, because the volume needed to reach spec'd pressure has to be calculated from starting pressure, desired end pressure, atmospheric pressure, ambient temperature, and calculated (or measured) flow rate. It's much simpler (and cheaper, and more reliable) to program the controller to "run compressor X seconds, stop compressor, measure pressure, run compressor X seconds if <Y pressure, repeat until Y pressure" but as I mentioned earlier the time it takes to stop and measure adds up for longer fills. Rivian's implementation of "run compressor, measure constantly, stop at X pressure" is likely the best option for this use case, provided operators are able to account for the offset between measured impulse and desired static pressures and set the pressure limit accordingly.

There are separate conversations to be had about how flow rate is affected by the length and diameter of your pneumatic hose, but unless Rivian's compressor is pushing significant CFM (which I doubt) it's still largely irrelevant. I've measured fill times with various combinations of 1/4" and 3/8" quick fittings and 1/4" and 3/8" hoses at 5 to 20 ft, using compressors ranging from .9 CFM to 3 CFM, for 35" tires, and my observation is that fitting/hose diameter and length don't really matter until you're over 2 CFM. If Rivian's compressor is over 2 CFM I'll be pretty excited!
 

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That's flow rate, not pressure, which is largely irrelevant to measuring pressure
This is only true if you're able to measure close to the final container you're filling and have the majority of your restriction upstream of your measurement.

If Rivian's compressor is over 2 CFM I'll be pretty excited!
I'm hoping I have some time soon to tear that stuff down. Wouldn't be upset if someone did it before me though. It seemed pretty quick to add a couple PSI into a tire on my Hummer but I did spend most of my time trying to figure out why setting it to 45 PSI meant it only ran for a second or two at most when the tire was at 39 psi starting off. I think I had the setpoint up to 53 psi and it was still shutting off before the tire was at 45 psi. I was in a hurry to do other stuff so I didn't keep playing with it.
 

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Hello,

I got a few questions to ask...

1) Does R1T come with cigarette lighter plug?
2) Does the green light bar always stay on when you are charging? or only when its unlocked? Can you disable the light bar entirely?
 

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Hello,

I got a few questions to ask...

1) Does R1T come with cigarette lighter plug?
2) Does the green light bar always stay on when you are charging? or only when its unlocked? Can you disable the light bar entirely?
1) Their are 12V outlets under the center display and in the front truck.
2) Only when the car is unlocked
 

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1) Their are 12V outlets under the center display and in the front truck.
2) Only when the car is unlocked
Also a 12V DC outlet in the gear tunnel (as well as a 120V AC outlet)
 

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1) Their are 12V outlets under the center display and in the front truck.
2) Only when the car is unlocked
Thanks jjswan33!

the 12 v would be help greatly... for Radar Scanners LOL
 

CommodoreAmiga

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the 12 v would be help greatly... for Radar Scanners LOL
If you really want one, hard wire it. Why spend so much on a vehicle to have a coiled wire running across your dash?

As a side note, do they even work reliably these days? Last time I tried one (15+ years ago) 99/100 alerts were false positives. I would think the abundance of vehicles on the road with adaptive cruise control would also cause it to constantly alert.
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