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ja_kub_sz

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Hey all,

Amazon delivered my ICECO GO20 Dual Zone cooler this morning. Thought I would post some photos.

It’s not the largest cooler/refrigerator/freezer but it fits in the gear tunnel or the front trunk. Will add more details as I try it out.



First test and experience. Plugged into the house via 110. Set the freezer side to 0 and the other side to 35. Took about 30 minutes to get to temp. Then I put a cup of water in both sides (~50-60 starting temp) and after 1 hour the cup on the freezer side was starting to freeze and the cup on the fridge side was around 40-45 degrees. Overall seems to cool well.

Also the app is ok, very basic but you can control the temp settings and monitor the temp. One other note regarding the included cords, kinda odd but to use the AC adapter you have to use both cables, the DC cable plugs into the cooler and then to the AC cable to the wall.


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That's slick!

I just ordered mine thank you!
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Forager

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I bought the same a few weeks ago based on measurements. Just waiting on the actual truck... (May-June). Glad to have the confirmation that it fits. The one thing the reviews mention and I've noticed is that the 12v plug, isn't designed the best and can wiggle out if not otherwise secured.

Thanks for posting!
Assuming it’s just a standard cigarette plug, this is a common problem with cigarette style 12v ports, in addition to supplying limited current. People traditionally upgrade their ports to Anderson Plugs or other styles if they drive on washboard roads a lot or are supplementing power with dual batteries or solar.
 

Blueassassin

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That's slick!

I just ordered mine thank you!
Its in my Amazon cart now waiting for my truck. Cant decide on white vrs silver though.
 

Riviot

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@jjswan33 have you tried running it in the frunk or gear tunnel to see how much heat the compressor puts out and how that space handles it? You've got me tempted now...
 

Zoidz

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Would lack of airflow be a concern in the frunk?
On a very hot day, it's a legit concern. Most people know this, but it's worth mentioning in this discussion. Refrigeration systems don't "create" cold, they simply remove heat, and they create additional heat doing the work to remove the heat. That heat has to be dissipated in the frunk. Thinking in those terms will help use it effectively.

The manual says operating temperature up to 131 F, which is pretty impressive. On a hot sunny 110 degree day with the frunk closed and the compressor running, it's conceivable it could hit 131 inside the frunk. Precooling everything would help, as well as keeping the frunk open/vented at your destination.

Edit: Additional consideration. If it operates at ambient of up to 131 F, that means the discharge air temperature at the condensor will be greater than 131, perhaps 135 to 140, since it is removing heat from inside.

Rivian R1T R1S Sizing it up.. my power cooler arrived.. ICECO GO20 Dual Zone 1650467729532
 
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kneebuster

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does anyone have the shuttle or remember its price?
I seem to recall it was enough for me to say "no thanks" … $1500?
It seems to be out of production.
https://rivian.com/gear-shop/p/gear-tunnel-shuttle
It looks to be about 4 inches thick, but they don't include that dimension in the spec.
1650438057268.png
The shuttle is $1500, both pre and post March 1st pricing it seems. I've not seen a thickness, but think your 4" guesstimate is in the ballpark. I was told by my guide that the camp kitchen is indefinitely back ordered, but did not ask if that was due to the shuttle, or the kitchen itself.
 

Riviot

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On a very hot day, it's a legit concern. Most people know this, but it's worth mentioning in this discussion. Refrigeration systems don't "create" cold, they simply remove heat, and they create additional heat doing the work to remove the heat. That heat has to be dissipated in the frunk. Thinking in those terms will help use it effectively.

The manual says operating temperature up to 131 F, which is pretty impressive. On a hot sunny 110 degree day with the frunk closed and the compressor running, it's conceivable it could hit 131 inside the frunk. Precooling everything would help, as well as keeping the frunk open/vented at your destination.

1650467729532.png
I'm thinking about the other stuff you may want in your frunk, like non-perishables. Despite the name, you still wouldn't want them exposed to 90°F+ for extended periods.
 

Zoidz

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I'm thinking about the other stuff you may want in your frunk, like non-perishables. Despite the name, you still wouldn't want them exposed to 90°F+ for extended periods.
Like putting camping citronella candles in the frunk with the cooler? :oops:
 

SoCal Rob

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On a very hot day, it's a legit concern. Most people know this, but it's worth mentioning in this discussion. Refrigeration systems don't "create" cold, they simply remove heat, and they create additional heat doing the work to remove the heat. That heat has to be dissipated in the frunk. Thinking in those terms will help use it effectively.

The manual says operating temperature up to 131 F, which is pretty impressive. On a hot sunny 110 degree day with the frunk closed and the compressor running, it's conceivable it could hit 131 inside the frunk. Precooling everything would help, as well as keeping the frunk open/vented at your destination.

Edit: Additional consideration. If it operates at ambient of up to 131 F, that means the discharge air temperature at the condensor will be greater than 131, perhaps 135 to 140, since it is removing heat from inside.

1650467729532.png
Given how close the frunk is to the vehicle's HVAC, it's too bad there isn't a small supply at one side and return at the other so the frunk could benefit from some HVAC when desired, too. It could be a simple setup with manual slide doors to open and close the supply and return.

Our Land Rover has a built-in center console cooler which uses a Peltier effect module. It could take a long time to cool down when the car had been sitting in the sun for a while since it just dumps the waste heat into the small air cavity around it and surrounded by the console outer shell with no air circulation to the cabin. I drilled a 1/2" hole into one of the nearby rear seat HVAC ducts. The hole faces the Peltier's heat sink so it gets some air circulation which is cooled if the vehicle's A/C compressor is on, too. It made a big difference in the performance of the console cooler.
 

the long way downunder

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The shuttle is $1500, both pre and post March 1st pricing it seems. I've not seen a thickness, but think your 4" guesstimate is in the ballpark. I was told by my guide that the camp kitchen is indefinitely back ordered, but did not ask if that was due to the shuttle, or the kitchen itself.
I guess something "supply side" has fouled up the shuttle. I had the option to take it 5-6 weeks ago. Maybe it still would have been a "missing accessory.." Maybe someone in Rivian said "enough" with all the missing accessory deliveries (I know more than I want to know about revenue recognition and there's definitely shaky ground reporting revenue when the whole product is taxed on purchase but not fulfilled within the quarter. There's also sketchy definition of "produced" if Rivian is calling a built truck "produced" but missing crucial electronics making it unfit for sale then just trucking it over to a service center to be "prepared" for delivery. I don't mind either way, but I know the govt employs buildings full of people to audit these seemingly unimportant words five years after the fact …
 

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...and the R1S would be the most funky and different SUV on the market. Instead, it's up against stiff competition and as an SUV it doesn't have a single killer feature.
Wanted to quote you here and respectively disagree. Outside of only two vehicles (both being ICE), I cannot think of anything in the market which provides what a Rivian R1S can.

Performance
Off-road capability
Semi-luxury/drives like a car

If you're comparing to a "generic SUV", then sure there are tons out there but personally I wasn't looking for a generic SUV.

There's the Mercedes G63 AMG which in this current market is $220K+. Then there's the Range Rover SVR. Slightly less, but much more expensive than the Rivian, even with the adjusted price. Both of those vehicles you can fit off-road tires and they are fast. There are a couple of "made to order" SUVs (I forgot the name, but they are similar to an older style Range Rover/Defender) that have similar specs but I don't really count them as "mass produced".

I have an X5M and it is a fast SUV w/almost 600hp but with its large brakes, you cannot fit any semblance of off-roady tire. So that's 1 out of 3 points lost for the car. The M version of my X5 never even had a 3rd row as an option.

And that's why I pre-ordered an R1S and not any other SUV. Are people cross shopping an R1S and a Honda Pilot? Maybe but I think that's just odd.

But anyway, this is off topic for this cooler thread.
 

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if it became an .issue you could cut a hole in the tub and put in a boat deck plate. they sell these in different sizes
Rivian R1T R1S Sizing it up.. my power cooler arrived.. ICECO GO20 Dual Zone 1650471171235
 

Sdvictor

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if it became an .issue you could cut a hole in the tub and put in a boat deck plate. they sell these in different sizes
1650471171235.png
If the tub is just straight up plastic single layer, this isn't actually a bad idea
 

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Any smart engineering types think we could incorporate this fan to help vent the frunk? Possibly use the above boat deck plate to only open as needed?
Rivian R1T R1S Sizing it up.. my power cooler arrived.. ICECO GO20 Dual Zone IMG_1083~2
 

Blueassassin

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If the tub is just straight up plastic single layer, this isn't actually a bad idea
For any Tacoma fan boys out there we used to do a deck plate mod to the air box to pull cold air from the grill. Then if it was raining or dusty off-road you put the plate back in to pull from the fender. Best $10 mod I've ever done.
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