Sizing it up.. my power cooler arrived.. ICECO GO20 Dual Zone

[CharonPDX]

This is exactly the thing I was hoping for! A cooler that is accessible from the pass-through! Ordering one of these ASAP.

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[the long way downunder]

This is exactly the thing I was hoping for! A cooler that is accessible from the pass-through! Ordering one of these ASAP.

Yep. That's valuable …. and both sides of the tunnel can be stuff full of gear and still get at the fridge. Of course the controls aren't accessible, but I think there's a bluetooth app for that model of ICECO. (you'd want to be able to turn it off so it doesn't heat up the gear tunnel with no ventilation, it could run only maybe 30 minutes before warming up that whole space. That's where Rivian needs a bespoke accessory with an installation kit to duct the heat somewhere (maybe replacing one fo the hatch liners with a vent through the weather seal?

 

[the long way downunder]

Wanted to quote you here and respectively disagree. Outside of only two vehicles (both being ICE), I cannot think of anything in the market which provides what a Rivian R1S can.

Performance
Off-road capability
Semi-luxury/drives like a car

If you're comparing to a "generic SUV", then sure there are tons out there but personally I wasn't looking for a generic SUV.

There's the Mercedes G63 AMG which in this current market is $220K+. Then there's the Range Rover SVR. Slightly less, but much more expensive than the Rivian, even with the adjusted price. Both of those vehicles you can fit off-road tires and they are fast. There are a couple of "made to order" SUVs (I forgot the name, but they are similar to an older style Range Rover/Defender) that have similar specs but I don't really count them as "mass produced".

I have an X5M and it is a fast SUV w/almost 600hp but with its large brakes, you cannot fit any semblance of off-roady tire. So that's 1 out of 3 points lost for the car. The M version of my X5 never even had a 3rd row as an option.

And that's why I pre-ordered an R1S and not any other SUV. Are people cross shopping an R1S and a Honda Pilot? Maybe but I think that's just odd.

But anyway, this is off topic for this cooler thread.

I mean in 2023 and 2024, the EV SUV market will not be what it is today. I wasn't thinking of ICE SUVs – they're history. : )
For the criteria you mention, for a typical buyer, all EVs are high performance, at least in this $100K+ market segment, all are luxury, all are much more capable off road than will ever be asked of them. It's only the enthusiast type (us on these forums) that scoff at comparing the Humm EV, Lightning or Cybertruck (or the Model X) to the R1T or R1S.
I expect the R1S will sell all they can build for years in a niche as a luxury "cognoscenti" marque … half the price of the Range Rover BEV for comparison. I think Aston Martin, Lamborghini and all the VW brands, all now target EV products as their core business. GM and Ford will be quick to bring their same-platform (Ultium and TE1) SUVs to follow the initial pickups to market. Plus there's EV SUVs from China (BYD, CATL, names that aren't really in global markets, yet) and Europe. It's already a crowded market in terms of announced products arriving in '23 and '24.

 

[Zac]

Yes it came with both 110V and 12V cables.

In the absence of Rivian helping us with this, would you be willing to do a little experiment for all of us please?

1. Can you please leave your truck unplugged overnight and plug in your new cooler with some pre-chilled cans of your favorite beverage into the 12V outlet in the frunk or gear tunnel with it closed? Make note of the SoC, range, and time when you do this and in the morning when you unplug it.
2. Do the exact same thing the next night, but this time plug it into the 120V (switched on) in the bed with the tonneau closed. Make note of the SoC, range, and time when you do this and in the morning when you unplug it.

I'd like to learn if there is a significant difference in the amount of energy used between the two. If it is minuscule, then leaving the cooler in the bed could be a great solution. If it is not, then determining how to vent the frunk could be a worthwhile effort.

 

[jjswan33]

In the absence of Rivian helping us with this, would you be willing to do a little experiment for all of us please?

1. Can you please leave your truck unplugged overnight and plug in your new cooler with some pre-chilled cans of your favorite beverage into the 12V outlet in the frunk or gear tunnel with it closed? Make note of the SoC, range, and time when you do this and in the morning when you unplug it.
2. Do the exact same thing the next night, but this time plug it into the 120V (switched on) in the bed with the tonneau closed. Make note of the SoC, range, and time when you do this and in the morning when you unplug it.

I'd like to learn if there is a significant difference in the amount of energy used between the two. If it is minuscule, then leaving the cooler in the bed could be a great solution. If it is not, then determining how to vent the frunk could be a worthwhile effort.

I wouldn’t buy a DC fridge if I was going to use the 120 outlets. Inverting from DC to AC and then back to DC seems foolish. I know the inverter in my van uses 10-15W anytime it’s on if that is the case for both then that is going to probably double the energy use of the fridge.

Still likely negligible relative to the size of the battery. I mean if you use 120V and then end up at a total of 50W or so that is still only ~1% battery drain in a day.

But I am curious to see how much energy it uses. Not exactly what you asked but I could easily test the energy draw of the fridge in both scenarios in my van. Then anyone (including me) could test the draw of the inverter on the truck by just leaving it on overnight vs not.
.

 

[SeaGeo]

Yep. That's valuable …. and both sides of the tunnel can be stuff full of gear and still get at the fridge. Of course the controls aren't accessible, but I think there's a bluetooth app for that model of ICECO. (you'd want to be able to turn it off so it doesn't heat up the gear tunnel with no ventilation, it could run only maybe 30 minutes before warming up that whole space. That's where Rivian needs a bespoke accessory with an installation kit to duct the heat somewhere (maybe replacing one fo the hatch liners with a vent through the weather seal?

Leave the center arm rest down, or at least the little door open into the cab...? Or am I issuing something?

 

[the long way downunder]

Leave the center arm rest down, or at least the little door open into the cab...? Or am I issuing something?

Right. Having that little fridge in the middle of the tunnel with the armrest down would be enough air movement (except the rear seat is all dog hammock in my case.) I'm thinking mostly while stopped and overnight. I've had the 40qt iceco in the cabin, but it's a bit noisy and generates enough heat that I leave it in the bed of the truck (an F-150) while sleeping in the cabin. The insulation is enough for the freezer to be off while driving for a couple of hours. I leave the fridge running in the bed (which has the same sort of metal tonneau) and it gets warm (but keeps the internal temp below freezing.)

 

[dzmconstr]

does anyone have the shuttle or remember its price?
I seem to recall it was enough for me to say "no thanks" … $1500?
It seems to be out of production.
https://rivian.com/gear-shop/p/gear-tunnel-shuttle
It looks to be about 4 inches thick, but they don't include that dimension in the spec.

I asked my guide how much space it took away from the tunnel (looks like 3 inches to me), and of course true to guide fashion: "I don't know but I'll let you know"...to which it's been two weeks and I still don't know. RJ fix your guides or provide some better means of prospective owners - known as buyers - getting answers.
Dzm

 

[MountainBikeDude]

@jjswan33 I'd be hesitant to leave it for long periods or even short ones for that matter, confined to the frunk, especially with other gear. The issue I foresee, is the lack of venting to allow the coolers compressor to bleed off heat

The gear tunnel might be better for this provided one leaves the interior pass through open.

 

[jjswan33]

@jjswan33 I'd be hesitant to leave it for long periods or even short ones for that matter, confined to the frunk, especially with other gear. The issue I foresee, is the lack of venting to allow the coolers compressor to bleed off heat

The gear tunnel might be better for this provided one leaves the interior pass through open.

Yeah I agree, I probably won't be using it in the frunk, mostly I will probably have it in the cab for easiest access and likely I will store it in the frunk/gear tunnel when not in use.

If I wanted it in the frunk I would do as others suggested and add a vent of some kind.

 

[Inkedsphynx]

I'd leave the frunk open to let the compressor cool it down to temperature, and then as long as you're not driving in absurd heat, I'd expect that the compressor wouldn't have to do too much work and thus wouldn't be moving too much heat around. Doubly so if the cooler is full, so there's more thermal mass.

I definitely wouldn't leave it sitting closed while parked in the sun on a hot day though.

For something small like this I'm planning on putting it in the back seat behind the passenger seat. It would be really cool though to get something small enough to fit in the center console cubby, maybe something that can hold like 3 or 4 bee... drinks...

 

[SoCal Rob]

It would be really cool though to get something small enough to fit in the center console cubby, maybe something that can hold like 3 or 4 bee... drinks...

I think you’d like the cooler in our Land Rover‘s center console, but the space isn’t as critical with 2 glove boxes.

Assuming the space is sufficient it would be nice to get an accessory cooler which would take up the space in front of the Rivian’s console (blocking access to the camp speaker unless you remove it) on the floor since there is a 12v outlet right there.

 

[Inkedsphynx]

I think you’d like the cooler in our Land Rover‘s center console, but the space isn’t as critical with 2 glove boxes.

Assuming the space is sufficient it would be nice to get an accessory cooler which would take up the space in front of the Rivian’s console (blocking access to the camp speaker unless you remove it) on the floor since there is a 12v outlet right there.

Yea, I wanted that in the Defender but there wasn't one available with that option when I bought and I didn't have time to wait for a new order from the factory before needing to trade my Velar in. Would have been pretty damn cool (har!). Would have been neat if Rivian had done the same in the R1s, but I'll settle for a small cooler in the back seat

 

[kylealden]

In the absence of Rivian helping us with this, would you be willing to do a little experiment for all of us please?

1. Can you please leave your truck unplugged overnight and plug in your new cooler with some pre-chilled cans of your favorite beverage into the 12V outlet in the frunk or gear tunnel with it closed? Make note of the SoC, range, and time when you do this and in the morning when you unplug it.
2. Do the exact same thing the next night, but this time plug it into the 120V (switched on) in the bed with the tonneau closed. Make note of the SoC, range, and time when you do this and in the morning when you unplug it.

I'd like to learn if there is a significant difference in the amount of energy used between the two. If it is minuscule, then leaving the cooler in the bed could be a great solution. If it is not, then determining how to vent the frunk could be a worthwhile effort.

This test is really not going to be helpful - it's more trouble than it's worth, for results you can't trust.

You're probably talking about a 15-30W difference in efficiency between DC and 120V for the same result. That's in the ballpark of one mile of range every 24 hours even if it was continuous, or less than a third of a percent.

Meanwhile the various idle systems of the truck (cooling pumps, fans, computers powering on and off, Gear Guard) can be in the mid hundreds of watts at any given time and are highly variable. We don't have any way to control for whether the truck was pulling down a software update or getting feisty with the coolant one night or the other, so this test isn't going to be meaningful.

The real answer here is: Virtually nothing you can plug into your truck is going to make a meaningful difference on range on a day to day basis. The battery is truly massive relative to any human-scale electronics. Go nuts. Unless you're off grid for a week at the limits of your range, the outlets truly do not matter.

My "torture test" scenario is running a line-voltage electric space heater off of the inverter to warm a ski camper overnight. Even that, which is pretty much worst case, is probably only going to cost about 10% battery overnight, assuming it runs full tilt for ten hours.

 

[jjswan33]

This test is really not going to be helpful - it's more trouble than it's worth, for results you can't trust.

You're probably talking about a 15-30W difference in efficiency between DC and 120V for the same result. That's in the ballpark of one mile of range every 24 hours even if it was continuous, or less than a third of a percent.

Meanwhile the various idle systems of the truck (cooling pumps, fans, computers powering on and off, Gear Guard) can be in the mid hundreds of watts at any given time and are highly variable. We don't have any way to control for whether the truck was pulling down a software update or getting feisty with the coolant one night or the other, so this test isn't going to be meaningful.

The real answer here is: Virtually nothing you can plug into your truck is going to make a meaningful difference on range on a day to day basis. The battery is truly massive relative to any human-scale electronics. Go nuts. Unless you're off grid for a week at the limits of your range, the outlets truly do not matter.

My "torture test" scenario is running a line-voltage electric space heater off of the inverter to warm a ski camper overnight. Even that, which is pretty much worst case, is probably only going to cost about 10% battery overnight, assuming it runs full tilt for ten hours.

That said and 100% agreed with here is the power draw from the cooler:

The setup using my Goal Zero Yeti 6000X.

Pic1 - Nothing on 0W of draw
Pic2 - Turn on the inverter - 9W
Pic3 - Cooler plugged in to DC power - 33W
Pic4 - Cooler plugged in to AC power - 50W

So at least in this controlled test. Compressor needs about 30W while running. Using the inline inverter adds another 10W and then the inverter on the truck uses something (hard to test) but probably a similar 10W figure if I were to guess.

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