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CommodoreAmiga

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Inside the charger, the connection coming from the wall into the charger you have the black wire on the left, and red on the right side, should be the opposite
You’re joking right? It does not matter! They’re both 120V relative to ground, 180 degrees out of phase from each other. The charger can‘t tell the difference!
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jeeden

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I have a two car garage... with a ridiculous amount of toys / stuff for my kids. So I have to park outside. Haven't finished the little path my wife requested yet.

20220905_183913.jpg
Wow, nice and clean. Love the path too.
 
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You’re joking right? It does not matter! They’re both 120V relative to ground, 180 degrees out of phase from each other. The charger can‘t tell the difference!
He might just be talking about the instructions and not realize they are the same.

I'm interested in your wire. Are you charging at 48amps? I have seen a lot of chatter on the internet about how you technically shouldn't use 6 gauge Romex because it is only rated to 55amps at temperature and you are on a 60amp breaker to do 48amp charging. Seems that the recommendation is to do 6 gauge THHN in conduit.
 

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He might just be talking about the instructions and not realize they are the same.

I'm interested in your wire. Are you charging at 48amps? I have seen a lot of chatter on the internet about how you technically shouldn't use 6 gauge Romex because it is only rated to 55amps at temperature and you are on a 60amp breaker to do 48amp charging. Seems that the recommendation is to do 6 gauge THHN in conduit.
I followed the instructions as I understood them. That being said, I am not an electrician. I know a lot about different areas but never claim to be one. I set my truck to charge at 30-32 amp when I charge due to it sitting there all night. I am thinking about next time I have the cover off, I will change the dip switch for a lower rating. I personally want to charge the battery slower but want to find the balance for charging to 100 percent over night if I am at lets say 20 percent at start. I don't really drive but maybe 20 miles a day currently so I am still testing how many days I can go on a 70 percent charge and then recharge to 70/85/100. I have a trip planned this weekend to Jackson, GA to see family so I will charge it Thursday night to the 100 and am hoping to get it to 20 Thursday afternoon.

As far as the wire goes, I had very limited options at Lowes and it was the weekend so no supply house. I found everything I needed and needed to get it hooked up as the wall outlet was like watching ice boil...



Edit: I probably should ask this question, Why does it matter about the single phase connection being reversed?
 
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He might just be talking about the instructions and not realize they are the same.

I'm interested in your wire. Are you charging at 48amps? I have seen a lot of chatter on the internet about how you technically shouldn't use 6 gauge Romex because it is only rated to 55amps at temperature and you are on a 60amp breaker to do 48amp charging. Seems that the recommendation is to do 6 gauge THHN in conduit.
Per the NEC, you can't use 6AWG NM (Romex) for a 48amp continuous load (3+ hours of expected use). NM is rated at 55AMP @60deg, but has to be detrated by 20% for this application, so max continuous amperage is 44A.
The next size up rule/exception is often misinterpreted to apply in this case and people will run 6AWG NM on a 60A breaker.

Now, this is just what the NEC says, is there an actual issue with this? Probably not, especially when you consider that the same code allows 6/2, 6/3 MC/AC wire to run the full 75A rated for the THHN it uses even though one could argue that it is really no different from NM when the space it gives the wires from a heat dissipation is similar. Even going one step further, if you were to treat the MC/AC as a conduit, you would have to derate due to fill, but from what I recall the NEC does not require this for MC/AC but may if it was FMC and you fished your own wires.

Note: I am not an electrician, nor am an expert in the NEC. This is based on my read of the NEC and applying electrical engineering principles.
 
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Per the NEC, you can't use 6AWG NM (Romex) for a 48amp continuous load (3+ hours of expected use). NM is rated at 55AMP @60deg, but has to be detrated by 20% for this application, so max continuous amperage is 44A.
The next size up rule/exception is often misinterpreted to apply in this case and people will run 6AWG NM on a 60A breaker.

Now, this is just what the NEC says, is there an actual issue with this? Probably not, especially when you consider that the same code allows 6/2, 6/3 MC/AC wire to run the full 75A rated for the THHN it uses even though one could argue that it is really no different from NM when the space it gives the wires from a heat dissipation is similar. Even going one step further, if you were to treat the MC/AC as a conduit, you would have to derate due to fill, but from what I recall the NEC does not require this for MC/AC but may if it was FMC and you fished your own wires.

Note: I am not an electrician, nor am an expert in the NEC. This is based on my read of the NEC and applying electrical engineering principles.
Yea, I hear you re expert, etc. I'm only going to run a couple of feet from my panel in the drywall to the back of a wall box or Autel charger (haven't picked yet) so I'm in analysis paralysis on just going with in wall 6/2 romex, in wall non metallic conduit with 6 gauge THHN, in wall metallic conduit with 5 gauge THHN... haha
 

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I'm interested in your wire. Are you charging at 48amps? I have seen a lot of chatter on the internet about how you technically shouldn't use 6 gauge Romex because it is only rated to 55amps at temperature and you are on a 60amp breaker to do 48amp charging. Seems that the recommendation is to do 6 gauge THHN in conduit.
For my install I ran 3x 6AWG THHN and a 10AWG solid/bare in 3/4" schedule 40 PVC conduit. The neutral isn't necessary for the Rivian EVSE, but I ran it anyway since the cost was minimal and I think it helps future-proof my install, a bit.
 

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Yea, I hear you re expert, etc. I'm only going to run a couple of feet from my panel in the drywall to the back of a wall box or Autel charger (haven't picked yet) so I'm in analysis paralysis on just going with in wall 6/2 romex, in wall non metallic conduit with 6 gauge THHN, in wall metallic conduit with 5 gauge THHN... haha
At least per code, you can't run 6/2 romex AND exceed 45A continuous on the load.

I'm not sure I understand the conduit and 6 vs 5 gauge statement (also didn't know 5 gauge was a thing...)....there is probably a joke here that I am missing...

If you are running conduit, this is a good calculator to determine conduit size:
https://www.southwire.com/calculator-conduit

Essentially, for either 3 or 4 6AWG wires (whether you want to run the white neutral or not) you are good for 3/4" conduit for FMC, EMT, or PVC (not schedule 80).
 

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You’re joking right? It does not matter! They’re both 120V relative to ground, 180 degrees out of phase from each other. The charger can‘t tell the difference!
Stupid question of the day. If that does not matter, then why is the charger blaring RED?
 

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Stupid question of the day. If that does not matter, then why is the charger blaring RED?
Mine did that when the installer failed to connect the front panel...
 

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At least per code, you can't run 6/2 romex AND exceed 45A continuous on the load.

I'm not sure I understand the conduit and 6 vs 5 gauge statement (also didn't know 5 gauge was a thing...)....there is probably a joke here that I am missing...

If you are running conduit, this is a good calculator to determine conduit size:
https://www.southwire.com/calculator-conduit

Essentially, for either 3 or 4 6AWG wires (whether you want to run the white neutral or not) you are good for 3/4" conduit for FMC, EMT, or PVC (not schedule 80).
Sorry 5 gauge was a typo (was phone typing). The metal vs non conduit was regarding the heat penalty of one over the other (nonmetallic liquid tight conduit can also result in the line being dropped back again to a 60C rating)
 

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