LinerX R1S modification

[Nano]

I am 3 weeks and 1600 miles into owning my R1S and like every car I own I have to modify it to make it "better". I ordered the entire cargo mat set from LinerX and am pretty pleased with it. The only issue I had is the 2nd row seat back covers came with velco to use so they would stick to the seat backs and it lasted maybe a week before they fell down.

I decided to come up with a more sturdy and permanent solution that would look at OEM as possible. I bought these floor mat pins from Amazon https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09SF7Y344?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&th=1

It takes a 1 inch drill bit and some sheet metal shears to cut the holes in the mat and trim to fit. The grommets snap into place with a rubber mallet and once they snap together are very strong. Next I took the mats that had all the holes cut in them with a drill bit to drill into the seats closest to the top very carefully. Nothing like taking a drill to a $90K car! But the seat backs are aluminum backed so there is some metal to get through. Once I was through I could screw in the anchors.

The anchors at the bottom of the carpet are just screwed through the carpet itself so no drilling needed.

I did cut the liner so I could put the center section down and still have protection for skiing or hauling longer things

For me, I will do off grid camping and hauling things so I wanted the floor liners secure and will leave them on all the time and it will make loading and unloading much easier than the carpet.

I still have the driver side passenger to do since I toasted 2 of my anchors trying to get it right into the upper section of the seatback.

My to do list
- Ordered the Megawatt rock sliders, so I wait until the arrive whenever that will be
- I will put an overland rack on but I am waiting for some more options. I LOVE the JEH rack but that is a $2k premium over what I could get for my 4Runner and hopefully prices will come down

My already done list is cosmetic stuff.
- Lots of the Abstract Ocean and BrainExploder stickers for the door pilar logo, frunk logo, lower center console logo, black out logos, visor stickers
- Matte screen protectors from EV Sportline as well as their 4 jack pucks with case and carbon fiber mud flaps
- Twraps PPF for door sills, door handles, rocker panels, A,B,C Pillars and entire rear hatch
- Front full PPF from the factory
- Applied Aquapel to both sunroofs and front and rear windows (I live in PNW and I do that for all my cars it is good stuff!)
- Factory matching ceramic tint to the front windows
-Rivian factory rubber mats
- Installed .25in automotive rubber trim around the rear window and 3 of the seems for the sunroof. I am particular about a clean car and these crevices' will easily get gunky and hard to clean. With this installed you will not know it is there unless you look for it and it looks OEM to me and keeps the gunk out.

I read the forum almost everyday and love the community!

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[citizen]

That looks great, do you have photos of the seatbacks without the mats installed? Assume we will just see the openings for the grommets.

 

[Nano]

The anchors stick up without the liners on but with the liners installed the grommets are pretty flush which is more important to me since I will keep the liners on 99% of the time. I only plan to do this on the 2nd row seat backs since the 3rd row will be down mostly and the mat stays in place really well so far.

 

[anthonysfl]

Can you post pictures of the rubber you put around the rear windows and roof please?

Also, heads up the rear windows are not actually “tinted”. It’s just coloring and provides no heat reduction or uv protection compared actual tint like you applied on the front windows. I have 20 on the front and 70 on all the rear and that matches quite well.

 

[Nano]

I used automotive 1/4in rubber from Amazon for the seams. You would really have to look for it to see it’s there which is what I wanted. I also will be putting in an adventure rack on top so it will be even harder to keep those seems free from gunk over time.

Installing the rubber tube is easy just line it with dish soap and slide it in and can easily be removed if there is ever an issue.

 

[sac602]

helpful. I've tried several velcro on my linerx seat backs. always fall off after a few days. I ordered the ips and will try your method. thx for posting.

 

[Ducky]

Nano,
The LinerX - grommet solution is very eloquent! I ordered the grommets and just wanted to ask how well it has held up since almost four months has gone by since you installed them?
If you decided to install the 3rd row can you please post a picture of that installation as well?
Thanks much

 

[sac602]

I did this (after reading this post) a few months ago and they have held up perfectly. I tried all kinds of velcro, double sided tape, adhesive strips. This is the only solution. (I also cut the pass through out like OP). Recommend.

 

[Ducky]

I did this (after reading this post) a few months ago and they have held up perfectly. I tried all kinds of velcro, double sided tape, adhesive strips. This is the only solution. (I also cut the pass through out like OP). Recommend.

Thanks much. Going to give it a try.

 

[Nano]

I can happily say they have held up very well. I had one stud that wasn't quite tight after a few months so I had to replace it but so far so good and I am very happy with the result.

The only thing I have noticed is the clearance is VERY small at the bottom of the 2nd row seats when the 2nd row is up and the 3rd row seats are down and it is easy for the LinerX to catch if I put the 2nd row seat flat to haul something and then when I flip back up. This only happens if the 2nd row is slid as far back as possible. If there is a little space it isn't as issue.

I have not done the anchor on the 3rd row and I don't think I will. The reason is when the 3rd row is down the LinerX covers it perfectly but when the 3rd row is up it needs to flex the LinerX and I don't think it would work right.

Overall has been a great OEM looking solution that is holding up.

 

[cgm9999]

I must've missed the original post but I'm glad I found this. I too have the LinerX set and have been racking my brain trying to figure out a solution to this problem. The included velcro is an absolute joke and utterly fails at keeping the mats on the second row seat backs when they're up. I'll definitely try this. Great idea!

 

[LiamJacobs]

It takes a 1 inch drill bit and some sheet metal shears to cut the holes in the mat and trim to fit. The grommets snap into place with a rubber mallet and once they snap together are very strong. Next I took the mats that had all the holes cut in them with a drill bit to drill into the seats closest to the top very carefully. Nothing like taking a drill to a $90K car! But the seat backs are aluminum backed so there is some metal to get through. Once I was through I could screw in the anchors.

The anchors at the bottom of the carpet are just screwed through the carpet itself so no drilling needed.

What size bit did you use for drilling the seat backs?

 

[Nano]

I cannot remember now. I tried to match the anchor width. So far it’s held up reasonably well for 6 months.

 

[LL75]

I saw someone did this awhile back but decided to go against it because of the drill part. I ended up using super glue the vercro part to the liner and so far so good for the past 6 months. This method does look really nice though

 

[Tony R1S]

Hi All,

Just wanted to share my LinerX cargo mat mod that I did about half a year ago. It has been holding up well so far and really improved the functionality of the liner for me. I wanted to avoid any drilling, or tape/glue. Also I wanted to avoid completely cutting the tailgate piece so that I could retain as much of the liquid protective characteristic as possible. The mod involves making a perforation half-way (about 7.5" from the edge) on the underside of the mat. You can see the measurement in one of the images. The key is to severe the ribs completely and lightly score the non-rib portion so that it would fold easily. It might take a few iterations to figure out how deep to score it until the mat starts to fold. Use a long straightedge like those drywall T's to make sure your cut is straight, or else it will warp when you bend it (don't ask me how I know). Even though part of it is mat cut, when it's opened up and flat, the seam is tight enough that liquids won't flow through that easily. This saved me from a cleanup mess when I spilled a whole bowl of ramen on the tailgate. Another nice thing about the mod, is it naturally forms a teepee shape so it stands up on its own without flopping over.

Here's video of opening/closing action:

To @LinerX , I really like this mat, it would be great if you could consider incorporating an extra fold in the middle section to allow a fold like this by design.

Thx,
Tony

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