Socket "two" me - more better: installed 12 volt outlets under the dash

[iamnid]

Any reason why something like this wasn't a viable solution?

https://www.amazon.com/SinLoon-USB-...8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

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[Joules Burn]

You can also mount it under the dash where the plug used to be and tuck the wires under the trim there. I have dashcam wires tucked there.

I considered that location but I didn't want to screw into unchartered territory.

 

[Joules Burn]

Nice write up, and great idea. Assuming the outlets are held by screws directly into panel without anchors of any sort, I'd be interested in seeing how it holds up to shearing caused by inserting/removing plugs. I suppose it'd be fine if you're 1) gentle and/or 2) don't plug/unplug often?

I dig your user name. Clever.

The screws hold it quite securely and any force will be lateral to mount.

 

[Joules Burn]

Any reason why something like this wasn't a viable solution?

https://www.amazon.com/SinLoon-USB-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B0BWF2WM1H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2GKR9WV5J0TR0&keywords=usb+c+to+cigarette+lighter+adapter&qid=1704312306&sprefix=usb+c+to+cig,aps,169&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

I considered it but I wasn't sure of the amperage rating and there are no USB ports on the dash.

 

[Joules Burn]

Only issue is that the fuses are there to protect the wiring, in your case, that is not the case. The fuses should go near the fuse block not near the actual receptacles. If there is a short in the wiring, the fuses won't blow.

There are wires going to the fuse block that would just as susceptible as the ones leaving. There is more of a chance of device failure or overloading than damage to wiring hidden away.

The block may be preferable but it's access difficulty was the deal breaker for me.

 

[sub]

Any reason why something like this wasn't a viable solution?

https://www.amazon.com/SinLoon-USB-Cigarette-Lighter-Adapter/dp/B0BWF2WM1H/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?crid=2GKR9WV5J0TR0&keywords=usb+c+to+cigarette+lighter+adapter&qid=1704312306&sprefix=usb+c+to+cig,aps,169&sr=8-1-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9hdGY&th=1

That adapter only works if the USB-C port is capable of outputting 12V, which is not something that Rivian's USB-C ports can do. While some USB-C ports are capable of delivering quite a bit of power, Rivian's USB-C ports are not.

I suspect for most, the entire point of wanting a 12V outlet is to get more power than what you can get from Rivian's USB-C ports so even if the adapter was capable of boosting the 5V that it got from Rivian's USB outlet to 12V, there would still be no point as any thing you plugged into it would get even less power than if it had been plugged directly into Rivian's USB C outlets.

 

[Iamuwere]

These USB-C to 12v actually do step up the voltage though. There are lots of variations, and remember these USB-C can put out quite a bit of wattege.

 

[R1Thor]

There are wires going to the fuse block that would just as susceptible as the ones leaving. There is more of a chance of device failure or overloading than damage to wiring hidden away.

The block may be preferable but it's access difficulty was the deal breaker for me.

There is a code that covers this, that you're ignoring. If somehow this does cause any kind of fire, your claims will be denied.

Within 10-12 inches of 'source,' (battery terminals, or in this case fuse block) is where a fuse is required. You can easily replace these wires with fuse taps (and should).

I worked as an autotech in college. This was on my MECP exam.

 

[vandy1981]

I did something similar in our R1S using fuse taps. I was going to use a surface mount like the OP, but realized that I could drill holes in the console organizer I bought from Amazon.

Console Organizer
USB Plugs
12V Outlet

 

[sub]

These USB-C to 12v actually do step up the voltage though. There are lots of variations, and remember these USB-C can put out quite a bit of wattege.

The amazon description specifically says that it requires USB-PD source with a voltage at least as high as the desired output voltage.

The voltage marked on this product refers to the highest voltage that this product can decoyout of.

If the PD charger does not have this this voltage then the product will be below and closest to the voltage marked on the product,

For example, PD charger marks three voltages: 5V,9V,12V

With 15V of this product decoyout voltage is 12V.

Note：Must be used with a 45W ~ 100W USB-C PD charger. The Type-C charger power must be over than the output end.

At least in my R1S the USB-C outlets do not support USB-PD and cannot put out anything higher than 5 volts. And I've not seen anyone show evidence that newer (or older) Rivians have upgraded USB outlets.

 

[GRNNREG]

I did something similar in our R1S using fuse taps. I was going to use a surface mount like the OP, but realized that I could drill holes in the console organizer I bought from Amazon.

Console Organizer
USB Plugs
12V Outlet

 

[GRNNREG]

Looks really nice

 

[jebinc]

Now that I have irritated the grammarians…

The good news - I got my R1S a year ahead of schedule. The bad news - they took away the 12 volt outlets in the dash and the frunk. (I do hope it was a supply chain issue and not a cost cutting attempt or utility decision, lest we question the validity of their future decisions.)

I decided that i really didn’t need an outlet in the frunk for any immediate purpose. Consequently, I opted for two 12 volt outlets under the dash where I am going to need them. Hence, more better.

Amazon has a variety of options. Many may be delivered in a Rivian van.

The fuse panel is in the most UN-user friendly location possible.

There are two driver-side panel covers - one just behind and the other to the right of the knee airbag. Each has a #25 torx screw and really tight straight insertion clips.

The center panel is accessed by removing the portable speaker, pulling up the rubber mat, and popping open the panel with a plastic pry tool. (Really tight clips here too.)

I used the 20 amp fuse locations of F46, 12 volt port one and F51, 12 volt port two. Other folks have explored that uncharted territory and documented the fuse layout in other posts.

I couldn’t find a pigtail adapter with connectors that held snuggly. I didn’t want them becoming disconnected on a bumpy road. Consequently, I went with standard spade connectors with the positive line and put the fuses in the outlet housing. Fuse access will be much easier in the future. I do NOT want to crawl under there again!

For the ground terminals, I found a pre-drilled hole in the top of the metal frame at the right of the center panel. A #12 self-drilling hex head screw threaded perfectly tight.

The mounting spot for the socket assembly is just above the rubber mat edge.

Now I can plug in a satellite based GPS and a communications transceiver when I want to adventure out of the soccer-mom parking lot.

To each! ?

 

[SeaGeo]

Nice write-up and documentation! Thanks for sharing it. I'd be idly curious to see your rig when you have it plugged in. This is a dumb question, but aren't all GPS's "satellite based"?

I'm still trying to determine if Rivian is cell of satellite but the Garmin DriveSmart is a very reliable satellite based system with free lifetime updates. It can tether with your cell phone for traffic info as well.

It's a high accuracy GPS. The "issue" is more making sure maps are cached than the actual GPS location.

 

[Joules Burn]

There is a code that covers this, that you're ignoring. If somehow this does cause any kind of fire, your claims will be denied.

Within 10-12 inches of 'source,' (battery terminals, or in this case fuse block) is where a fuse is required. You can easily replace these wires with fuse taps (and should).

I worked as an autotech in college. This was on my MECP exam.

I’m not going to doubt your course. I’m think it was based on recommended specifications - not a “Federal” rule. I’ve had vehicles with the battery mounted under the seat, in the trunk, in the far corner of the engine compartment - way more than 12 inches to the fuse block. They want the fuse “as close as possible” to the battery to protect for wire shorts. Understandable. This wire is tucked safely in the bowls of the dash and will not be subject to abuse, rodent attacks, or clog dancers with golf spikes.

The pigtail adapters I found are 16 AWG and had narrow tabs with insufficient grip. At least 14 AWG is needed for a 20 amp circuit.

If you have a source for a pigtail connector with a wide tab and larger wire gauge, I will reconsider my installation.

As it is, I think this is my safest and most efficient setup.

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