Teardown: R1S Audio Unit under drivers seat and speaker harness pinnout.

[Electric_adventur1s]

Yes that makes sense. If the new amp is placed in the back and you wanted to use all four doors as an signal input, then you would need 16 total wires run from the factory harness/amp, to the new amp. 8 for signal input and 8 to power the door speakers. And right you would cut the factory wires and splice into each side.

Running wires in this vehicle kinda sucks unfortunately.

Idk if I have the balls to cut the factory wires. Wonder if I can get enough slack to go back to stock one day. I guess I could link in some new wire if I needed to though.

Sponsored

 

[redantpile]

Idk if I have the balls to cut the factory wires. Wonder if I can get enough slack to go back to stock one day. I guess I could link in some new wire if I needed to though.

Well that depends on your skill level and what you are comfortable doing. Most of the time I would cut and solder the new wires inline and heat shrink it. That is the least bulky way. But if you just don't want to cut anything, you can do what I did. You have to buy the same connector they used and male+female contacts. The factory wire/contact can be extracted and stuffed into a new connector body. Soldering is a better connection and less trouble, but if you want to be able to restore it to factory, then a connector is an option. I can post all of the links and part numbers if you need.

 

[Electric_adventur1s]

Well that depends on your skill level and what you are comfortable doing. Most of the time I would cut and solder the new wires inline and heat shrink it. That is the least bulky way. But if you just don't want to cut anything, you can do what I did. You have to buy the same connector they used and male+female contacts. The factory wire/contact can be extracted and stuffed into a new connector body. Soldering is a better connection and less trouble, but if you want to be able to restore it to factory, then a connector is an option. I can post all of the links and part numbers if you need.

That would be much appreciated. I feel like the extra effort is worth it in a vehicle like this.

 

[redantpile]

That would be much appreciated. I feel like the extra effort is worth it in a vehicle like this.

Okay. Here you go. Have fun


You need a crimp tool for the contacts. Mine is 30 years old, so you might try one of these ICrimp tools Amazon has. I have not tried them but they look similar. Search for contact crimp tool.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Barrel-Terminal-Crimper-Terminals/dp/B07476C1LD/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1FQRRCCDWW3KP&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.NzH4mvbKgujSWZll5aNk2zLsqccbFX-qY3kNK0QFaz6Md1Oo6O7vJj8u-4bQjUSVvHODWkTxWQNaSvkpR6wG3rN3B0QJ2SSGYbCXklC7DNhoDgIrgBhDKQEfxAmbRk1-QxfyQ-uCQ2NZVJzrp0_xxzT4p8PhaZnl-6ML407AQ1yMQ5sJRePlTwMdRYXGR5J-29q5XY79hdXmApIpgzH-SruDeildt0_1M5jb2NLbIso9joxvz2c2_FG43IA9FgeJAGzRwjPdXzrhaXRVuNTLk15IAC3EUou6Kg2FmN0pqL8.Q3wV36AumS6ZpwHhJcS39PMLOu1F6rei1M6bgJUx0PI&dib_tag=se&keywords=contact+crimp+tool&qid=1721747976&sprefix=contact+crimp+tool,aps,128&sr=8-8&th=1



I bought the contacts from this place. These are for 18-20 awg wire. This is the male. That's the amplifier side.
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Automobile-Connectors_TE-Connectivity-2109005-2_C531933.html
https://www.te.com/en/product-2109005-2.html


Female contact, inserts into male connector body(the factory harness side).
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Automobile-Connectors_TE-Connectivity-2109006-2_C531936.html
https://www.te.com/en/product-2109006-2.html?q=2109006-2&source=header



Male connector body.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/2-2188225-1?qs=vvQtp7zwQdO/ZoXiNgVp1A==
https://www.te.com/en/product-2-2188225-1.html

I could not find a female connector body. I think they just make the circuit mount version and I could not find it in stock. TE part number 2188220. I just crimped the male pins, heat shrunk them and cable tie everything so it stays in place. It's a little janky but after a year nothing has moved.
https://www.te.com/en/product-2-2188220-1.html


I made an extraction tool from a metal header type pin that solders into a circuit board. It's just a small piece of metal I ground down into a flat bar that fits in the opening. You can get creative with that. A sim card release tool can work but you have to move it around a lot to release the contact. A small flat bar is best. You might be able to buy something as well.

To release the contact you need to pry up on that plastic strip on each side. In my picture it's black.
It will only move up about a millimeter and it is very very easy to accidentally push it back in when handling the connector. Then use an extraction tool to push into on the smaller opening, to release the tab on the contact. You should not have to force it. The contact may pop out on its own or you need to tug on the wire just a little. If it won't release move the extraction tool around a bit. It should release with just a little force. Pay attention to which direction is up(top of the pin vs top of the connector).

 

[Electric_adventur1s]

Okay. Here you go. Have fun


You need a crimp tool for the contacts. Mine is 30 years old, so you might try one of these ICrimp tools Amazon has. I have not tried them but they look similar. Search for contact crimp tool.

https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-Barrel-Terminal-Crimper-Terminals/dp/B07476C1LD/ref=sr_1_8?crid=1FQRRCCDWW3KP&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.NzH4mvbKgujSWZll5aNk2zLsqccbFX-qY3kNK0QFaz6Md1Oo6O7vJj8u-4bQjUSVvHODWkTxWQNaSvkpR6wG3rN3B0QJ2SSGYbCXklC7DNhoDgIrgBhDKQEfxAmbRk1-QxfyQ-uCQ2NZVJzrp0_xxzT4p8PhaZnl-6ML407AQ1yMQ5sJRePlTwMdRYXGR5J-29q5XY79hdXmApIpgzH-SruDeildt0_1M5jb2NLbIso9joxvz2c2_FG43IA9FgeJAGzRwjPdXzrhaXRVuNTLk15IAC3EUou6Kg2FmN0pqL8.Q3wV36AumS6ZpwHhJcS39PMLOu1F6rei1M6bgJUx0PI&dib_tag=se&keywords=contact+crimp+tool&qid=1721747976&sprefix=contact+crimp+tool,aps,128&sr=8-8&th=1



I bought the contacts from this place. These are for 18-20 awg wire. This is the male. That's the amplifier side.
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Automobile-Connectors_TE-Connectivity-2109005-2_C531933.html
https://www.te.com/en/product-2109005-2.html


Female contact, inserts into male connector body(the factory harness side).
https://www.lcsc.com/product-detail/Automobile-Connectors_TE-Connectivity-2109006-2_C531936.html
https://www.te.com/en/product-2109006-2.html?q=2109006-2&source=header



Male connector body.
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/TE-Connectivity/2-2188225-1?qs=vvQtp7zwQdO/ZoXiNgVp1A==
https://www.te.com/en/product-2-2188225-1.html

I could not find a female connector body. I think they just make the circuit mount version and I could not find it in stock. TE part number 2188220. I just crimped the male pins, heat shrunk them and cable tie everything so it stays in place. It's a little janky but after a year nothing has moved.
https://www.te.com/en/product-2-2188220-1.html


I made an extraction tool from a metal header type pin that solders into a circuit board. It's just a small piece of metal I ground down into a flat bar that fits in the opening. You can get creative with that. A sim card release tool can work but you have to move it around a lot to release the contact. A small flat bar is best. You might be able to buy something as well.

To release the contact you need to pry up on that plastic strip on each side. In my picture it's black.
It will only move up about a millimeter and it is very very easy to accidentally push it back in when handling the connector. Then use an extraction tool to push into on the smaller opening, to release the tab on the contact. You should not have to force it. The contact may pop out on its own or you need to tug on the wire just a little. If it won't release move the extraction tool around a bit. It should release with just a little force. Pay attention to which direction is up(top of the pin vs top of the connector).

My man! You really came through with this. Haven't had time to read it yet but I now consider it my guide for this install. Thank you so much. I just have one last question and I'm sorry if you answered it already but.. What did you end up using for remote turn on? That's my final puzzle piece and then I think I'm good to go.

 

[redantpile]

My man! You really came through with this. Haven't had time to read it yet but I now consider it my guide for this install. Thank you so much. I just have one last question and I'm sorry if you answered it already but.. What did you end up using for remote turn on? That's my final puzzle piece and then I think I'm good to go.

I used the 35 amp trailer battery circuit so it switches off. I think I set the amp to detect a signal to power it up. I guess if you wire a new circuit to the battery, you could still use that trailer power just as a switched voltage.

 

[Electric_adventur1s]

I used the 35 amp trailer battery circuit so it switches off. I think I set the amp to detect a signal to power it up. I guess if you wire a new circuit to the battery, you could still use that trailer power just as a switched voltage.

Was there easy access to that from the trunk?

 

[redantpile]

Was there easy access to that from the trunk?

Yes, not too difficult. It is on the left side behind the felt.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...h-aftermarket-alpine-swr-t10-subwoofer.14310/

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-pinnouts-compressor-panel.16854/#post-426607

I did not buy these connectors, but they look right. I did buy the contacts/terminals and they matched.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yazaki/7283374040?qs=yqaQSyyJnNgZZJagfCVhcA==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/272-7116412102
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/272-7114412102

https://connector.yazaki-group.com/cgi-bin/english/detail.cgi?part_id=7282-3740-40

 

[Ducksause]

I might be modifying some of the speakers so here is the harness layout if anyone needs it. I unbolted the drivers seat but did not need to remove it or even unplug it's harness. Torque wrench showed about 45-50 ft-lbs to break the 15 mm bolts loose. The seat feet have lineup pins pointing down so I would put some lumber down to protect the carpet.

I thinks it's a A2B type audio setup, but that's just a guess. I thought I remember years back Rivian had job listings with A2B experience.

I'm stumped on the center channel is setup. It sounds and meters like two speakers right next to each other. If anyone has seen that center speaker setup or knows, that would be great.

Also you can put the seat back without the plastic cover. Then you can still access all of the wires from the front, and put the cover & seat back again on until you are finished.

******Harness drawing updated 7/16/22*******
******edit 8/11/2023. After testing the subwoofer pins with a meter and tone generator, I can only make one conclusion. Both the center channel speaker and subwoofer are dual voice coil, and both have a mono signal playing over each pair of wires. ********

I'm working on using the subwoofer inputs as high level inputs into my amp. I was using your harness diagram to determine the positive and negative wires going to the subwoofer. I noticed that the the connector that goes directly to the sub has red and black wires. I wanted to make sure i'm reading the diagram correctly since I came up with the positive/negative wires in reverse to what the diagram reads. Am I interpreting the diagram correctly? I attached a picture for reference.

 

[Supratachophobia]

I might be modifying some of the speakers so here is the harness layout if anyone needs it. I unbolted the drivers seat but did not need to remove it or even unplug it's harness. Torque wrench showed about 45-50 ft-lbs to break the 15 mm bolts loose. The seat feet have lineup pins pointing down so I would put some lumber down to protect the carpet.

I thinks it's a A2B type audio setup, but that's just a guess. I thought I remember years back Rivian had job listings with A2B experience.

I'm stumped on the center channel is setup. It sounds and meters like two speakers right next to each other. If anyone has seen that center speaker setup or knows, that would be great.

Also you can put the seat back without the plastic cover. Then you can still access all of the wires from the front, and put the cover & seat back again on until you are finished.

******Harness drawing updated 7/16/22*******
******edit 8/11/2023. After testing the subwoofer pins with a meter and tone generator, I can only make one conclusion. Both the center channel speaker and subwoofer are dual voice coil, and both have a mono signal playing over each pair of wires. ********

Is it possible that the standard audio unit has a subwoofer out that can be tapped even if you dont have premium audio?

 

[Electric_adventur1s]

Yes, not too difficult. It is on the left side behind the felt.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...h-aftermarket-alpine-swr-t10-subwoofer.14310/

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...-pinnouts-compressor-panel.16854/#post-426607

I did not buy these connectors, but they look right. I did buy the contacts/terminals and they matched.

https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Yazaki/7283374040?qs=yqaQSyyJnNgZZJagfCVhcA==
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/272-7116412102
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/272-7114412102

https://connector.yazaki-group.com/cgi-bin/english/detail.cgi?part_id=7282-3740-40

How/ where did you go through the firewall for the power wire run? Do you have any pics of that?

 

[redantpile]

How/ where did you go through the firewall for the power wire run? Do you have any pics of that?

I didn't. I only installed a mono amp for the subwoofer. I used the existing 35 amp 12 volt trailer(pink wire) that goes to the trailer plug. I made a Y adapter so both the sub and trailer have power. My small trailer should not use that circuit anyway. I fused it in the tub with a 30 amp fuse, so hopefully it would blow first, and not the fuse in the fuse panel.

If you pull the plastic panel by the windshield under the hood, behind the AC compressor there is a rubber grommet that has spare ports for un-used wires/hoses etc... It's the panel you remove to change the cabin filter. That's probably where I would go thru the firewall. Working behind the dashboard does not look like much fun.

https://www.rivianforums.com/forum/...trunk-diy-how-to-pics.4676/page-7#post-364130

 

[redantpile]

I'm working on using the subwoofer inputs as high level inputs into my amp. I was using your harness diagram to determine the positive and negative wires going to the subwoofer. I noticed that the the connector that goes directly to the sub has red and black wires. I wanted to make sure i'm reading the diagram correctly since I came up with the positive/negative wires in reverse to what the diagram reads. Am I interpreting the diagram correctly? I attached a picture for reference.

I did check polarity on all connections. Yes it's possible my drawing is wrong. I would check it with a meter to be sure. White Violet is positive on my drawing for example, but it could be wrong.

Maybe the factory sub is 180 out of phase?

 

[redantpile]

Is it possible that the standard audio unit has a subwoofer out that can be tapped even if you dont have premium audio?

I may not understand the question. Mine is a box that gets an input digital signal from something else. The only thing "out" is speaker level. I really don't know about any other audio setup Rivian may be using.

 

[Ducksause]

I did check polarity on all connections. Yes it's possible my drawing is wrong. I would check it with a meter to be sure. White Violet is positive on my drawing for example, but it could be wrong.

Maybe the factory sub is 180 out of phase?

I threw out the stock sub already lol. I could have checked the polarity of the wires with it using a multimeter. I think I’ll go based on how the bass sounds. Right now I feel like it sounds better based on your wiring diagram.

Sponsored