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blank_lemur

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I've never used that Hilbert top option, is that what causes all the top surfaces to be rought?
Yes. I found it withstands minor dings and such better than anything else and given these will have random stuff thrown in it seemed like a good fit. Almost like a fuzzy texture for the top …

edit: was really only intended for the base and top … the accessories probably would look better with the normal finish.
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blank_lemur

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I've added a coin clip to the models for the handful of folks who actually use coins, like myself. The idea being that you clip a stack (~6 US quarters) together and use that as a weight to hold all the other coins in place so they don't rattle while driving. I've only just now printed my own prototype and it looks like it should work pretty well... but I haven't tested it extensively to see if it's heavy enough. Seems like it should be though ...

Here's a view of how it's expected to be used:
Rivian R1T R1S Customizable Console Organizer (3D Print) 1734029267656-mf
 

SwampNut

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What about printing the coin thing from TPU?

Another idea...the key block with no holes, scale or repeat it to make a row, and just add negative modifiers to hold vertical tubular things. I may try that, my mountain bike rack and travel trailer hitch have tubular keys. And I carry several tube shaped things.
 
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blank_lemur

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I'm not sure how much help the TPU would provide for the coin noise. It's mostly the coins rattling around with each other that I hear. I like the idea of having some solid blocks of various sizes that you could use to customize in the slicer using negative modifiers.
 

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Did I miss it, or does this not have the feet/hooks? I've never even used Fusion before at all, so I may be looking at it wrong. If I'm right I think maybe I can figure out adding them. The learning curve is steeper than that hill they broke the Cybertruck on.
 
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You should be able to import the STEP files directly into whatever slicer you use. I think all the popular ones now support them natively. They should include the feet.
Rivian R1T R1S Customizable Console Organizer (3D Print) 1734044698899-4o
 

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You should be able to import the STEP files directly into whatever slicer you use. I think all the popular ones now support them natively. They should include the feet.
1734044698899-4o.jpg

I've been using the Creality Print slicer which is Cura-based. But I do need to pick and learn a better one. It doesn't seem to import step, but I need to try to figure out if there's a trick. A lot of things in it are super unintuitive. But thanks for clarifying this so I know what direction to go.
 

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I've printed this out, and I can confirm that it's a really nice model. Really, really nice. Here is what it looks like:

Rivian R1T R1S Customizable Console Organizer (3D Print) 93BCB78C-E45D-44BC-94DA-E2ABE1778C7B_1_201_a


I installed it over the OpenSourceEV Center Console Divider and deinstalled the OSEV CC Organizer to put this in:

Rivian R1T R1S Customizable Console Organizer (3D Print) 54A8B1BA-C26E-4C3F-A9BE-46A3CF98D1AE_1_201_a


Overall, it fit very well. The Kleenex box is a bit higher than the divider, and this sits down a bit further than what is optimal -- still workable though:

Rivian R1T R1S Customizable Console Organizer (3D Print) A5560047-8094-4A15-B27E-A3542EBCBBA3_1_201_a


The top basket slides well, and the little dividers install securely as long as you do it prior to inserting the entire storage basket into the center console.

It enables storing a TON of stuff inside the console. Literally, three layers storage for all of your junk. Unfortunately, the bottom layer isn't tremendously accessible unless you remove the entire setup. That's pretty true of the OEM equivalent part too.

Overall, I'm not sure how long I'm going to run this. That probably says more about me than what it does to the model or the amount of time that has gone into developing it. It's all about how much storage I really need in my Rivian.

Specifically, I'm realizing how much I truly need to squirrel away as R1T already has a tremendous amount of storage locations:
  • This center console
  • The lower center console (I have my Camp Drawer installed)
  • The lower, open center console area
  • The front door pockets in the front (it's where I have the NACS adapter stored)
  • The rear door pockets
  • The rear under seat area
  • The gear tunnel
  • The frunk (and sub frunk)
For me, all that stays permanently in the vehicle is a Kleenex box, vehicle documentation, small microfiber town, the camera drive, and the bits that you see in the picture above.

So, should you print it? Absolutely. 100%. Just know what you're getting into. Printing was straight forward with no supports on lower tray. The upper tray and dividers were printed with tree supports. EZPZ.
 

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blank_lemur

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Printing was straight forward with no supports on lower tray. The upper tray and dividers were printed with tree supports. EZPZ.
Thanks for that detailed writeup/review! FWIW, the upper tray isn't supposed to need supports at all. The overhangs do come out at a 60 degree angle, which is pushing the boundaries a bit, but I figured with today's printers that should be doable without supports for many folks.

In other news, I'm actually adjusting my model ever so slightly. The radius of the chevron gets printed with a very sharp angle and ends up resulting in sharp edges on the surface. I've increased the radius a bit so have a smoother edge to keep the surface from feeling "sharp". Here's a visual of the first layer of the "old" version:
Rivian R1T R1S Customizable Console Organizer (3D Print) 1734299685622-uy

And this is the updated version I'm testing:
Rivian R1T R1S Customizable Console Organizer (3D Print) 1734299935638-p0


For the most part, you won't notice much of a difference aside from when you slide your hand across the surface. In addition to this, I've noticed that the clips start to loosen a bit over time, especially if you keep moving them around and attach/detach them a few times. I have a new "lock" that snaps in from the bottom, holding the clips in place so you can't easily remove them. I'm pretty close to finalizing those and making sure they work well. I'll post a quick followup video of me testing them so you can see/hear them click into place... it's pretty satisfying. :)
 

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Thanks for that detailed writeup/review! FWIW, the upper tray isn't supposed to need supports at all. The overhangs do come out at a 60 degree angle, which is pushing the boundaries a bit, but I figured with today's printers that should be doable without supports for many folks.
I should have noted that I printed mine in ASA, which 45 degree is max. The little nubs on the dividers are about 90 degrees. If printed in PETG, you may be able to print them without any supports.
 
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blank_lemur

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Here me doing initial fit testing of the new lock tab.
I should have noted that I printed mine in ASA, which 45 degree is max. The little nubs on the dividers are about 90 degrees. If printed in PETG, you may be able to print them without any supports.
Ah. I didn't realize ASA restricted overhangs like that. The clips on all the accessories definitely need supports. They're small supports and should come off pretty cleanly, but they do need them.
 
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blank_lemur

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Here's a quick video showing the new "lock" mechanism I'm testing... it doesn't look like much, but keeps things in place pretty well.
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