iQB
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This is a work in progress, but I wanted to provide updates and pictures as I have time to work on this project. I'm installing an Audiocontrol amp, Focal speakers and a JL 10W6v2 in a custom ported enclosure. I did NOT want to use a 12V source, as my previous vehicle (Model Y) had all kinds of electrical tantrums and failures last time I did a similar install. For this reason, I wanted an amp that had the ability to use the speaker signal to turn itself on. Additionally, the R1T does a great job of shutting down the signal after ~15 mins of inactivity.
Accomplished this week (doing this sporadically in my spare time):
4 gauge power wire from the battery, which is underneath the front passenger seat. 4 bolts securing the seat, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. No need to completely remove the seat, just slide forward/backward based upon the bolts you need access to.
This was actually pretty simple...AFTER you get these 15mm bolts out of the housing (they were a PITA to remove, I used a breaker bar plus lots of sweat). If you have an impact wrench, this shouldn't be that difficult to complete.
Here's a picture of the battery housing, the left side is hot.
I installed a 100A fuse within a few inches of the battery (not pictured) and ran the power wire under the carpet to the rear of the cabin.
I won't be removing the plastic bin for a few months, so I had to drill a small hole in it to allow a pass-through for the wiring. For the ground, I just used a readily accessible bolt from the rear seat that was underneath some trim just above the bin.
The last part that I needed for the amp, was a signal from the speakers. I tapped into the rear door speakers for this and ran wires from the left and right sides (purple is positive). Removing the door panels was very straight forward, in fact, you don't need to actually take them off completely. I removed the 4 screws holding them in and then pryed the door away at the bottom and up the sides. This allowed me to have more than enough room to remove the speakers (6X9). The front doors only have a midbass signal, but the rear has slightly distorted full range and separate tweeters. I drilled a small hole in the speaker housing to run my new wires back inside the door.
The challenging part was running the wiring through the rubber boot and getting that to go back into its housing correctly (still isn't perfect). I had to cut a small slit in the rubber housing and then run the wire through it. When you're bringing the wiring back inside the housing, pass it through the center and it will go straight into the side panel housing into the interior of the vehicle. Once inside, the wiring will be sitting inside a small gap at the base where the seatbelt is bolted to the floor. Have patience here, especially when trying to get that rubber housing back to its original state.
Rinse and repeat for both sides, running that wire under the trim is a breeze. So far, I do have my sub hooked up and its working fine with no alerts on the dash. I'll be back at it in a couple of weeks to knock out the front door speakers since I'm going to have to create my own speaker adapters using 1/4" ABS plastic panels and some flashing tape on the rear side (prevents unwanted rattles/vibrations).
Accomplished this week (doing this sporadically in my spare time):
4 gauge power wire from the battery, which is underneath the front passenger seat. 4 bolts securing the seat, 2 in the front and 2 in the rear. No need to completely remove the seat, just slide forward/backward based upon the bolts you need access to.
This was actually pretty simple...AFTER you get these 15mm bolts out of the housing (they were a PITA to remove, I used a breaker bar plus lots of sweat). If you have an impact wrench, this shouldn't be that difficult to complete.
Here's a picture of the battery housing, the left side is hot.
I installed a 100A fuse within a few inches of the battery (not pictured) and ran the power wire under the carpet to the rear of the cabin.
I won't be removing the plastic bin for a few months, so I had to drill a small hole in it to allow a pass-through for the wiring. For the ground, I just used a readily accessible bolt from the rear seat that was underneath some trim just above the bin.
The last part that I needed for the amp, was a signal from the speakers. I tapped into the rear door speakers for this and ran wires from the left and right sides (purple is positive). Removing the door panels was very straight forward, in fact, you don't need to actually take them off completely. I removed the 4 screws holding them in and then pryed the door away at the bottom and up the sides. This allowed me to have more than enough room to remove the speakers (6X9). The front doors only have a midbass signal, but the rear has slightly distorted full range and separate tweeters. I drilled a small hole in the speaker housing to run my new wires back inside the door.
The challenging part was running the wiring through the rubber boot and getting that to go back into its housing correctly (still isn't perfect). I had to cut a small slit in the rubber housing and then run the wire through it. When you're bringing the wiring back inside the housing, pass it through the center and it will go straight into the side panel housing into the interior of the vehicle. Once inside, the wiring will be sitting inside a small gap at the base where the seatbelt is bolted to the floor. Have patience here, especially when trying to get that rubber housing back to its original state.
Rinse and repeat for both sides, running that wire under the trim is a breeze. So far, I do have my sub hooked up and its working fine with no alerts on the dash. I'll be back at it in a couple of weeks to knock out the front door speakers since I'm going to have to create my own speaker adapters using 1/4" ABS plastic panels and some flashing tape on the rear side (prevents unwanted rattles/vibrations).
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