Audio splitter deep in infotainment?

[Horsey]

Out of curiosity, which Rivian are you interested in and what's your goal in a vehicle? The R1S (and certainly R1T!) are VERY different platforms from the Y and I personally wouldn't consider them very reasonable competitors by most metrics outside of "modern electric." If the R2, then you already know it's not out yet and maybe we're just having a hypothetical conversation about the future - which is fine, but a different grounding for the conversation.

I'm looking at an R2, Model Y, EX60, and whatever can tow a single horse trailer in the midsized electric segment (coming from my Lightning, which is just too big). I'd be far more happy with a small truck with a high tow rating, essentially, an R2T, but that doesn't exist anywhere, sadly. IMHO, the R1T would be my "compromise", but it's just a tad too big, wayyyyy too expensive, and lacks the new R2 steering wheel which imho is far superior to the awful 3 way wheel controls on the R1S/T and Tesla.

I so strongly disagree that the R1S/T isn't a competitor with the model Y; the size of the R1 is a huge liability outside of the tiny population of people that regularly cart around 5+ adults on a regular basis. As I see it, the R1S/T is just a Model Y with a huge towing capacity, which I like because I won't have to cut down a trailer and can just buy a cheap, used, and heavy 2 horse trailer. (Don't get me started on the shortcomings of the Cybertruck, but less controversially, it's just stupidly large).

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[Horsey]

I'm confused here, if your intent is to use the iPad for everything, why wouldn't you just connect audio with Bluetooth and call it a day. Doesn't make sense to lose the steering wheel controls for volume and track changes.

Most of the Rivian infotainment features work fine without connect+

My concern with Bluetooth is that the quality of the input/output and the time it takes to connect. Bluetooth is an old technology that should've died by now, and I would be shocked if it wasn't replaced by Wifi-direct at some point in the next decade (which is how long I plan to keep the vehicle). Future aside, I'm concerned with how Bluetooth struggles to juggle microphone and audio connections simultaneously. You lose a LOT of quality if you're using both at the same time.

 

[Horsey]

Most of the Rivian infotainment features work fine without connect+

The fact that the Rivian (or Tesla, for fairness) infotainment systems aren't 1:1 compatible (at no additional charge) with every single Siri/Google/Gemini feature is a huge problem for me. I use Siri/Google/Gemini for literally everything while driving from texting, calling, to setting reminders, sending an ETA, adding calendar appointments, asking for general info, etc. I'm willing to move away from CarPlay/AA because the interfaces are so ungodly slow to respond and animate, but I want to replace it with an in-ecosystem tablet which is more performant and extensible with Jailbreaking/rooting/appstore integration.

 

[shamoo]

Can you link me to the audio splitter tech for Tesla? I'm cross shopping a Model Y, so if they can do audio splitting without any issues, I'll go with them.

I think this is the one I used on both my Hondas and Tesla in the past.

After that, you can use any amplifier. I used a Rockford Fosgate and crossovers when they ultimately went to the individual speakers.

https://audiocontrol.com/products/l...msAWl_3CLKq_smqtM14VwpkFE4cXtTkxoC2goQAvD_BwE

I so strongly disagree that the R1S/T isn't a competitor with the model Y; the size of the R1 is a huge liability outside of the tiny population of people that regularly cart around 5+ adults on a regular basis. As I see it, the R1S/T is just a Model Y with a huge towing capacity, which I like because I won't have to cut down a trailer and can just buy a cheap, used, and heavy 2 horse trailer. (Don't get me started on the shortcomings of the Cybertruck, but less controversially, it's just stupidly large).

I don't think any one of us can change your mind, but I find this to be ridiculous.

They're completely different vehicles. They each have 4 wheels and 4 doors...that's about it.

I find it odd that you're deciding between a Model Y and a Rivian R1S purely based on what you can extract from the OEM sound system.

I used to be a huge audiophile, both at home and for my vehicles. Then (I got older) and I quickly realized the juice isn't worth the squeeze. I can't blast it when my wife or kid is in the car because that's when these monster systems shine. Then I find that 90% of the time, I'm listening at a relatively normal volume (maybe slightly higher than if my wife was in the car). Then I realize I'm spending $2-4K on parts and/or labor and I haven't experienced a single audio shop who will treat your car as you do. Panels and parts never go back exactly right.

Anyway, you like what you like, and that's perfectly fine. I'm pretty confident most vehicles have some sort of basic audio out you could tap into and clean up. It might be proprietary, but it is still "just some wires". I'm sure there are professional car audio shops who may already have insight into the Rivian. Call around and ask.

EDIT: Thinking back, I also did this on my BMW M3 (E9x series). Everything was pretty integrated and that was possible too. I had to buy some custom harnesses and a specific amplifier which was compatible with the CANBUS and other things to work, but it did. Also had one of those Audiocontrol LCIs in there.

 

[Mos Eisley]

Can you link me to the audio splitter tech for Tesla? I'm cross shopping a Model Y, so if they can do audio splitting without any issues, I'll go with them.

There are apps like AirTesla and TslaMirror that can mirror your apple device.

 

[Nixapatfan]

My concern with Bluetooth is that the quality of the input/output and the time it takes to connect. Bluetooth is an old technology that should've died by now, and I would be shocked if it wasn't replaced by Wifi-direct at some point in the next decade (which is how long I plan to keep the vehicle). Future aside, I'm concerned with how Bluetooth struggles to juggle microphone and audio connections simultaneously. You lose a LOT of quality if you're using both at the same time.

Well I'm done here. Majority of people will not be able to tell the difference between Bluetooth or hardwired especially since the rest of the system can't reproduce the frequencies that are getting compressed but you do you and carry on with your quest.

 

[Horsey]

Well I'm done here. Majority of people will not be able to tell the difference between Bluetooth or hardwired especially since the rest of the system can't reproduce the frequencies that are getting compressed but you do you and carry on with your quest.

first of all, I’m sorry to everyone else in this thread, but I have to clap back at this guy:

dude, the OP very clearly states that I’m looking for hardwiring advice. Don’t come in here with a bad attitude pointed towards me because I’m not taking your irrelevant advice. Nowhere in the thread was I acting rude towards others, but you come along and make the thread about you.

 

[JM.]

I run an add-on CarPlay unit that has all the normal features, no lag. But if you really care about sound quality, Apple Music with ATMOS directly on the main system is phenomenal.

 

[Horsey]

I run an add-on CarPlay unit that has all the normal features, no lag. But if you really care about sound quality, Apple Music with ATMOS directly on the main system is phenomenal.

Do you use EVPlay or something completely external?

 

[JM.]

A CarPodGo external system.

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