EV Play + Comma 3x install - advice

[godfodder0901]

Ok, great. Fuse taps are new to me. Is that something I can grab at an auto parts store, Harbor Freight or presumably Amazon? LMK if you have a link. I’ll watch the video and look at what size fuse is needed.

No, and Rivian fuses are not the most common either...

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[gerrylum]

Ok, great. Fuse taps are new to me. Is that something I can grab at an auto parts store, Harbor Freight or presumably Amazon? LMK if you have a link. I’ll watch the video and look at what size fuse is needed.

If you want to go the fusetap route, DM me and I'll send one out to you if you pay for shipping.

 

[MTBLeibo’s R1T]

Not necessarily. If you got one of Lukas' harnesses before he removed the power connection, then you did exactly what you were supposed to do. He only started shipping harnesses without the power connection recently.

Lukas had a purple 12v connection, Comma uses red wires for their 12v connection.

Thanks! Mine now looks like this:

Not necessarily. If you got one of Lukas' harnesses before he removed the power connection, then you did exactly what you were supposed to do. He only started shipping harnesses without the power connection recently.

Lukas had a purple 12v connection, Comma uses red wires for their 12v connection.

thanks mine looks like this now:

assume this always an earlier one then…

 

[gerrylum]

Thanks! Mine now looks like this:

Looks perfect!

 

[MTBLeibo’s R1T]

Looks perfect!

Thanks. You saved me a bunch of angst. Probably won’t get a chance to install this and the EV Play for another week or two so I am glad I don’t have to wonder for that long if I messed it up!

Appreciate the confirmation.

 

[gerrylum]

Thanks. You saved me a bunch of angst. Probably won’t get a chance to install this and the EV Play for another week or two so I am glad I don’t have to wonder for that long if I messed it up!

Appreciate the confirmation.

No problem! You will need to use another source of power now, though. Such as the OBD-II power adapter or a fusetap, though.

 

[pointless]

Quick update:
EV Play:
Bench installed in my R1T for now. Fan is on, red LED is on, blinking blue/green LED. AutoKit Shows on iPhone CarPlay settings but wireless button does not switch video sources. I’m only seeing Rivian infotainment. So I know the EV Play is passing video but I can’t get EV Play or CarPlay video/UI on the screen. Clicking the wirebutton does nothing but light up its own red LED.

I’ll button up the install and mount the EV Play as soon as I can get it to work.

Note: the video install instructions need to do a better job describing and differentiating the connectors and where they go. 3 of the 4 connectors are black and purple. They also describe the maroon connector as purple. They should clarify terms rather than, “where it was just connected”. It is not rocket science but simple precise language would help.

Comma 3x
Bench installed in the R1T for now as well
Running Sunnypilot
Using OBD power for now - Fuse tap coming soon
Waiting on Longitudinal upgrade

Harness install was a pain disconnecting the original and aligning and clicking in the new one. Thanks to 20+ year old soldering pointy-pokey tool finally victorious.

So far, not loving using Comma 3x with Rivian ACC doing longitudinal. Looking forward to the upgrade.

I’ll wrap up most of the cabling today and just leave the power and Longitudinal upgrade to do as soon as they arrive.

@gerrylum I did not bypass the 12v power on the Comma harness. Do I need to go back and do that when I add the Fuse tap? (hopefully not, but probably?).

 

[gerrylum]

@gerrylum I did not bypass the 12v power on the Comma harness. Do I need to go back and do that when I add the Fuse tap? (hopefully not, but probably?).

You don't need to, but it's probably a good idea. It'll still work and draw power from the fusetap instead of the AXM, but there's still the potential for 12v feedback into the AXM which can cause issues.

I have your fusetap ready to go, I just need to pop it in the mail but obviously Labor Day will cause some delays.

 

[pointless]

Yikes! Lukas upgrade shipping notice. Tariff of an additional $68!

​ Fees and taxes totaling 68.00 USD are due for this delivery. Additional charges may have been applied based on recent tariff policy changes.​

​ ​

 

[vcao]

Yikes! Lukas upgrade shipping notice. Tariff of an additional $68!

​ Fees and taxes totaling 68.00 USD are due for this delivery. Additional charges may have been applied based on recent tariff policy changes.​

​ ​

I got super lucky. Customs didn't catch my order. I received mine 10 days ago. I just ordered a BearTech Magnetic mount and it's shipping from Canada, so hopefully it doesn't get flagged.

 

[pointless]

Turns out $34.73 tariff was on the Longitudinal Upgrade
Somehow the $68.00 tariff was on the Fuse Tap (in addition to €33,98 EUR).

Subtotal	€17,99​
Shipping	€15,99​

That’s crazy a $68 tariff on a €17,99 part!

I did pay the $34.73 tariff for the upgrade harness. UPS only accepts check or money order

I refused the Fuse Tap delivery, which @gerrylum is generously sending me one of his.

 

[pointless]

Quick-ish and scary update.
EV Play:
Awaiting replacement unit.
Never able to get video switching to work.

Comma 3x
Received longitudinal control upgrade harness.
Swapped out connector yesterday to add 12-pin port to Comma harness.
Plugged in Longitudinal harness.
Updated Comma 3x settings and Sunny Pilot version.
Quick test drive and all working as expected.

Awaiting fuse tap to get off OBD adapter.

Now the scary part:
Today I notice the driver side front tire is flat. Truck is parked in my garage. I feel around the tire tread and don’t see any nails or screws.
OK, I back the truck up a 1/4 tire rotation, to expose the tread that was in contact with the ground.

Then suddenly:
“Service 12V battery system immediately

Driving disabled
Call a tow truck.

All-wheel drive permanently engaged
Service it soon.”

R1T is stuck with 1 foot of truck bed sticking out of the garage and won’t shift out of park.

Soft reset x2 or 3>No change
Hard reset>No change

Ugh. Don’t want it towed to SC with semi-installed EV Play and Comma 3x.

Hm… 12v error. Ok. Where can I check the 12v voltage? Ah, RIDE.
Don’t try this at home.
Search current RIDE access method -(Service mode=ON, 5 menu bar taps, slide menu up, Edison quote, 5 taps + code).
12v = 13.9v, looks good.
Ok, Diagnostics looks promising.
Bingo, 6 ECUs show errors.
I reset them.

I disconnected EV Play briefly but then couldn’t get center screen to come back on. And the truck is still in service mode. Can’t lock it to try to get the truck to sleep. Can’t use the fob or app either.
I disconnect CanBUS, restore Infotainment video cable.
Another soft reset, amazingly, everything is now working again.

Well, I have TWO RUSTY NAILS in the driver front tire about 10” from each other.

Is there really no way to get the truck into neutral while “Driving is disabled”?
The truck would not shift out of park.
I didn’t try enabling shipping mode. That’s the only thing I could see that might have worked.

Really would have sucked to have truck sticking out of the garage by one foot and not being able to close the door (for more than the 30-40 minutes it took me to sort this out).

Will install replacement EV Play when it arrives.

Not going to use Comma 3x until I can install fuse taps. Not going to chance using OBD port.

Sunday fun day…

 

[LL75]

Quick-ish and scary update.
EV Play:
Awaiting replacement unit.
Never able to get video switching to work.

Comma 3x
Received longitudinal control upgrade harness.
Swapped out connector yesterday to add 12-pin port to Comma harness.
Plugged in Longitudinal harness.
Updated Comma 3x settings and Sunny Pilot version.
Quick test drive and all working as expected.

Awaiting fuse tap to get off OBD adapter.

Now the scary part:
Today I notice the driver side front tire is flat. Truck is parked in my garage. I feel around the tire tread and don’t see any nails or screws.
OK, I back the truck up a 1/4 tire rotation, to expose the tread that was in contact with the ground.

Then suddenly:
“Service 12V battery system immediately

Driving disabled
Call a tow truck.

All-wheel drive permanently engaged
Service it soon.”

R1T is stuck with 1 foot of truck bed sticking out of the garage and won’t shift out of park.

Soft reset x2 or 3>No change
Hard reset>No change

Ugh. Don’t want it towed to SC with semi-installed EV Play and Comma 3x.

Hm… 12v error. Ok. Where can I check the 12v voltage? Ah, RIDE.
Don’t try this at home.
Search current RIDE access method -(Service mode=ON, 5 menu bar taps, slide menu up, Edison quote, 5 taps + code).
12v = 13.9v, looks good.
Ok, Diagnostics looks promising.
Bingo, 6 ECUs show errors.
I reset them.

I disconnected EV Play briefly but then couldn’t get center screen to come back on. And the truck is still in service mode. Can’t lock it to try to get the truck to sleep. Can’t use the fob or app either.
I disconnect CanBUS, restore Infotainment video cable.
Another soft reset, amazingly, everything is now working again.

Well, I have TWO RUSTY NAILS in the driver front tire about 10” from each other.

Is there really no way to get the truck into neutral while “Driving is disabled”?
The truck would not shift out of park.
I didn’t try enabling shipping mode. That’s the only thing I could see that might have worked.

Really would have sucked to have truck sticking out of the garage by one foot and not being able to close the door (for more than the 30-40 minutes it took me to sort this out).

Will install replacement EV Play when it arrives.

Not going to use Comma 3x until I can install fuse taps. Not going to chance using OBD port.

Sunday fun day…

@gerrylum. Does this sounded like what happened on our first installed with the comma harness? All errors are gone after we removed the harness?

 

[gerrylum]

@gerrylum. Does this sounded like what happened on our first installed with the comma harness? All errors are gone after we removed the harness?

Not quite - It sounds like pointless was able to get it working and went for a test drive with no issues. The bad harness you had gave us issues right from the point when we plugged it in.

@pointless, Do you still have the 12v AXM connection on the harness, or did you remove that already?

If not, this could be an issue from using 12v from the AXM, especially since, as I understand it, the harness is pulling power from the backup sensors specifically seeing as you were backing up at the time.

 

[pointless]

@gerrylum It was using the OBD power at the time. Not going to use Comma 3x until I can run the fuse tap that I got from you yesterday and bypass the AXM.

Maybe tonight if I have the time and patience to remove the harness and refit it. I’ll update.

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