First R1S tire rotation DIY experience

[SANZC02]

Update:

I tried this out for the first time today. For the rear lift positions, the lift range is inadequate (marginally) to get it high enough and engage the locking mechanism. However, It looks like it would work with 22" or 21" inch wheels. So, for the larger diameter ATs on 20s, I went with two stacked pucks (rear only) and I had no issues getting enough lift range.

Also note: Whenever you are lifting a vehicle and modifying the ride height (suspension or changing tire diameters) you have to take into account making sure you have enough lift range both before and AFTER your modification to ensure you can remove the jack. I lifted one notch more than needed and had no trouble getting the jack out after.

Was the Jack stand sitting on the floor? I am using 3/4 inch plywood underneath mine so the metal stands are not on the concrete, maybe that is the difference as I still had room to lift more, the 20s are only 1 inch taller than the 22s so that is only 1/2 inch on the radius.

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[madgrey]

Was the Jack stand sitting on the floor? I am using 3/4 inch plywood underneath mine so the metal stands are not on the concrete, maybe that is the difference as I still had room to lift more, the 20s are only 1 inch taller than the 22s so that is only 1/2 inch on the radius.

Yes, directly on the floor. Using plywood is a good way to take out some of the "slack".

 

[Mark_AZR1T]

I would love some opinions on what to do if you have a floor jack and jack stands. (as opposed to combo jack /jack stands.

I have a 3.5T DieHard floor jack and two tall jack stands. I was able to successfully rotate all 4 tires (one side at a time) but I wasn't totally comfortable with everything since I had to jack up the front by placing the floor jack on the lower control arm (I think that is what it is) with a pad and then, once it was up in the air with the tire off of the ground, I placed the jack stand with a puck in the lifting spot. I then used the floor jack to lift the rear tire off of the ground using a puck in the rear lifting spot.

Does anyone have a suggestion for a better process? I just don't really like lifting with the jack using the front control arm.

The process worked but I feel like it was less than stable when lifting using the control arm since it isn't exactly a flat surface for the jack.

I use our magnetic jack pucks and one of two methods.

1. 10T Big Red Bottle Jack, which fits in the bottle jack port on our pucks and it is more than sufficient to get the front off the ground (pic) when in tire change mode (high position). The rear I use the Camco RV pads or a block of wood. I use the jack stands in the picture on left front and right rear lift locations.

2. The HF 24 1/2" lift Dayton 3T floor jack. That thing is a beast and with our jack pucks can lift any R1 with any wheel set off the ground. I use two and then the two jack stands for support. Using the HF floor jack, as you can see in the picture the rear tire is 2.5" off the ground with another 2.5" of lift remaining on the floor jack. This is stellar.

 

[SurfnBike]

No way in hell would I ever jack up my vehicle like that green R1S with metal jack pucks on a slippery U-shaped metal jack stand. Any tremor in the vehicle and you and it are toast.

When I would work under cars in my 20s in driveways we would have a minimum of one jack stand under each side of the axle plus a floor jack with light pressure somewhere else, like a differential or frame rail, just in case a jack stand failed catastrophically...and that was on 90s era mustangs which weight HALF as much as an R1T/R1S (3500lbs vs 7000lbs).

Safest bet is a hydraulic ram AND floor jack and do a single wheel at a time. At the very least throw the spare tire underneath next to where you are working so you won't get completely crushed.

If you are rotating your own tires it is worth it to buy a spare, allowing you to jack up just one tire at a time vs. two at a time.

I rotated my tires last weekend with the stock scissor jack which was sketchy even with a full size spare, but I wanted to familiarize myself with how good of a job it would do in a roadside emergency. Overall it gets the job done but is a suboptimal solution. On the trail I will be bringing a bottle jack and puck extension.

 

[SANZC02]

No way in hell would I ever jack up my vehicle like that green R1S with metal jack pucks on a slippery U-shaped metal jack stand. Any tremor in the vehicle and you and it are toast.

Might be hard to tell in the picture, the top of the Jack stands are actually hard non-slip rubber pieces. Outside of a decent size earthquake while it is sitting on those stands, it is not going anywhere.

 

[Mark_AZR1T]

Might be hard to tell in the picture, the top of the Jack stands are actually hard non-slip rubber pieces. Outside of a decent size earthquake while it is sitting on those stands, it is not going anywhere.

Exactly. The yellow jack stands I use are flat top round and our pucks sit perfectly on there. Works perfectly.

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